Zhadman

Awesome! The fender flares look sweet! Give us some more info on the car... got any pics of your engine?

I did a google search and came up with nada.. I don't think I've ever seen a Wings West airdam for the Z. Can you post a pic?

A bit OT, but... The best part of that video is listening the Japanese guys yelling as the car is accelerating! It's been awhile since I've seen it, but it's just awe inspiring. There... I am done!

Very true. It is not unusual for $15k+ to be dropped on this swap. There are individuals who have gotten killer deals on engine/tranny combo's, but they are the exception to the norm. There's a video, that's been in circulation for some time now, of a 20B in an AE86 Corolla... amazing.

I think I'm a bit biased, but if you're determined to go to four slugs from six then the SR is the way to go! http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=lastup&cat=16198&pos=0

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe that the 4Cyl Z's were ever offered outside of Japan and are probably very rare and hard to come by. IF you were able to get your hands on one you would most likely have a bear of a time trying to find any sort of parts for it. There are quite a few people here running the L6's in Autocross events.

How are you removing your undercoating? I spent some time last weekend doing the same thing. What a PITA! Even though it came of FAIRLY easy with a 3M stripping wheel I am going to invest in a butane torch... melt the stuff right off! Whoever sprayed the coating on my car must have had a hard on for it... that stuff was THICK! Keith

Zilvia.net is where I get SR20 info for my 240! I don't ever post there, but I do drop in from time to time to see what's going on. Great site.

Perhaps its a problem with perspective but doesn't it look like the caliper extends past the wheel mounting surface on the rotor hat?

Excellent! Thanks Keith

I let out a big sigh of relief when I found out the number was off thier records. I'm just hoping someone didn't take the plates out of state. Did your car have all it's plates? Likely I will have to have the CHP issue me new ones.

I bought my '73 6-8 months ago to restore/hybrid-ize and haven't really payed much attention to it's registration. I have all my documentation in order and since my plan (initially) was to make it 'track-only' I never went forward with getting the car registered for highway use. Plans, however, change and I've decided I want to use the car on the streets, too... so I need to register it. I was going through my car this weekend and I noticed that all the VIN plates (door jam and dash) were missing, though the number on the firewall is unmarred. I called the DMV and had them run the VIN to check the cars registration history. They had nothing in their records. In California, I was informed, if a car's registration is expired for 5 years the records are expunged. They suggested I do a VIN search to see what, if any, information could be found. The problem I have now encountered is that every VIN search agency I could find requires a 17 digit VIN number (all cars '81 on are required to have atleast a 17 digit number). I want to make sure that someone hadn't stolen the VIN plates and are masquerading their car as my '73. Common sense would dictate that, to avoid stolen VIN issues, the DMV (or applicable state agency) would visually inspect the car to verify the correct VIN stamping. We're talking about the government though... Has anyone had similar issues? Any suggestions? Anyone found out that their VIN's were hi-jacked?

Dude... It's really not THAT difficult to replicate johnc's mounting design. The pictures in his link show pretty clearly how it's structured and he provided you with the material specifications. Please don't take my comments the wrong way but this is an area that should be left to individuals with experience fabricating custom motor mounts... especially if you're either unsure of your own abilities, or the safety of the ideas of someone else. If you're determined to fabricate your own mounts then I have a few suggestions. Examine closely the stock motor mounts for the L-series engine (...other engines, too). Look at how they are constructed. There are many people running high HP engines on the stock mounts... that should speak for thier strength and durability. Do your homework on materials. Not all metals are created equal and therefore possibly unsuitable for your mounts. If you deside to mount from the frame rails then think of ways to reinforce the area you are modifying. Are there any Hot Rod fab shops near you, anyone doing custom work? I have found that most Hot Rodders are easy to talk to and are possesed with a great wealth of knowledge (make sure you compliment their car! ). This territory (mounts for SR's in S30's) is not uncharted, but it is definately not clearly documented. But there is alot of information out there on the custom motor mount subject that you can use, even if said information is not specific to the SR20DET. Good Luck!

Hey J Taylor, what brakes are you running?

That would also afford us a place to share ideas and use our constructive criticism skills to max effect. I just hope it doesn't turn into a forum for people trying to sell their wares.

I wouldn't sell mine either. Even though I have designed them (chromoly girdle welded to rails) and run computer stress simulations on them (FEA/COSMOS) I do not want to be liable for their incorrect installation. Computer simulation does not take EVERYTHING into account (vibration, oscillation...etc). Too many ways to get burned. But that shouldn't stop someone who has the determination and resources from devising their own engine mounting system. I have found my own experience to be entirely rewarding.

Well... There AREN'T really any tech articles per se, but the subject has come up in many posts. Nobody, that I have found, has really written the definative guide to installing an SR into a first gen Z. There is some custom fabbing required and many individuals do not have the time, money, or tools to accomplish the feat on their own. I'm in the middle of my SR swap right now and if you have any specific questions feel free to direct them to me through PM. Cheers Keith

Try HRP (Hoerr Racing Products). http://www.hrpworld.com They have several tools to measure Toe-In ranging from $56.95 to $499.00.

I spent 5 years in Oklahoma (Moore/OKC) but didn't notice a bunch of Z's. How many do you have gathered out there? I'm in for the SoCal chapter, but a question I do have. Do I have to be an Associate member if my car is 'in-progress'?

RC Engineering ( http://www.rceng.com) is here in Torrance if you're looking for a local shop. Turn around time, especially if you're local, would be very short. It took 3 days for mine, but I had to have them shipped from the IE (I work in Torrance now). Glenn Kowta at Upgrade Motoring is a great guy and a big Z-car nut. I ordered a set of GramLights from him a month back and would definately do business with him again.

Is that an NPR?

It came out to just over $25 an injector. WELL worth the money. I couldn't believe the injectors I got back were the ones I sent in!

If you want them professionally cleaned I would seriously consider RC Engineering. They have a very fast turn around time and believe me, when you get them back they will look brand new! I sent them the injectors on my (now gone) Turbo II RX-7 and I was very, very impressed with the service.

The truck bed-liner that comes in a can (Kragen's, Autozone...etc.) weighs approximately one pound per can. That, obviously, includes the weight of the can and the propellant. One can can ( ) probably cover 4-6 sq/ft or more depending on how thickly the coats were applied.

I am in the process of installing my SR right now into my 73. Difficulty and price is subjective, to say the least. I can fab, weld, design and have all the tools to do so. So for me it's more of a time issue than anything else. If you have a hoist, welder, grinder, drill press, plasma cutter, tape measure (...etc.) and a basic understanding of mechanics (and use of the fore-mentioned tools) you can do it all yourself. You need to establish a plan of action, develop from there and be flexible enough to incorporate any changes due to difficulties that may arise. Measure, measure, measure and measure again before you even think of dropping the engine into the bay. Engine and transmission mounts will definately require fabrication. Driveline angle can should be an important consideration and fabrication of mounts should incorporate this factor. As far as I know there is no kit to adapt an SR easily to the Z (I believe there is a kit floating around for the RB's, though). Also, when designing/fabricating mounts, you should give serious thought to the materials being used, understanding the stresses that will be put on these parts and designing accordingly for strength. Incorporating the existing motor mounts into the design should definately be considered (IMHO) when planning your project. Secondary fabrications may likely include slave cylinder mounting locations and throttle cable repositioning/re-routing due the the right-hand nature of most JDM engines. Past the mounting/fabrication subject are tertiary (though no less important) considerations like exhaust routing/clearances, engine management, engine cooling, air intake, intercooler plumbing (). Many of these components do not come with SR and RB engines unless you buy a front clip (Cha-Ching!). $5k to install a stock SR is about right on. An RB would cost more. $5k into an L28ET would probably net you more HP/TQ with less installation/fabrication issues. EDIT Re-reading the post I realize that pretty much just re-iterated what Bastaad said.