Zhadman

Let me first apologize for my (potential) ignorance... I scanned throught the announcements a bit and I wouldn't be surprised if I missed it, but... how can we access the Classifieds section now? I even searched just to be safe . I want to put my SR20DET up for sale... EDIT... er, should this be in the Site Support section?

I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead so I don't start a new post on this subject (found this post in a SEARCH) I've just pulled my hard-lines and I must say... the fittings were trashed! Someone, in thier infinite wisdom, had rounded all of them and I had to use vise-grips to get them off! So now I need new fittings and I'm a bit stumped on where to get them from. I called this company: http://www.classictube.com and was told that there are no fittings available for the Datsun. They offer a 'kit' and the fittings that they use have had the 'nose' cut off to facilitate thier use in our cars (because standard metric fittings would not work). I was also told that these fittings require a 'flat backed bubble flairing' and that there is no tool I could buy to do this at home. Naturally they don't want me to do this myself because it takes business away from them. Posts in this thread indicate that there is indeed a tool to flair the lines. Does anyone have a source for the fittings?

I think what karay240 is getting at is that 'stock' replacement/maintenance parts are more readily available for a USDM motor. That's one of the reasons I'm thinking about the 7M. I know that if I have any problems with it I can run on over to the Toyota dealership and get whatever I need to get it going again. It's a whole different ball game with a JDM motor. Sure... the aftermarket is starting to support some of these motors, but what about stock replacement components?

Agreed!

If I didn't already have my SR I would be dropping in a 7M. I've even contemplated selling the SR to go 7M. Great engine and very, very cost effective considering the cost of other, more popular, I-6's.

Great minds think alike!

Does anyone know what standard the stub axle splines (240z) were manufactured to? Are they metric or standard? I know there are 25 teeth, but what pressure angle? Are they a standard spline? Arg... confusion setting in. In case you're wondering... I'm modeling the rear suspension and drive components and I want it to be as accurate as possible.

Which flares did you get? I just ordered a set of IMSA's for the front to mock up (want to see how they look on the car).

Or here... http://www.zilvia.net

Might be kinda tough to put in the jaws. Maybe there's a machinist on here who could pipe in. I'm sure it could be done. There are centerbores on both ends of the stub axle for fixturing. It's not like you're gonna be cutting a bearing land (correct terminology?) and have to keep a close eye on TIR.

Well... Since I belong to both ( ) The Subaru community has been nothing but cool to me (and my car is stock). I get honks, waves, nods, thumbs up and all that. They seem a bit more mature (with some exceptions) than some of the other communities I've been involved in and, quite frankly, make me enjoy my car even more. That is a really cool story, though! Always like to see that sort of thing happen.

That's exactly what I intend to do as well. For my initial tune I don't want the added complexities of modified components. I want to get the engine up and running smooth with my SA first. Then I will have some experience with tuning the EMS and can better integrate modifications later. I declined to purchase an ignitor chip (or for that matter an ECU) when I picked up my SR because I knew I was going SA. Here's a link and some info on the Holley Commander 950: (If you do a bit of digging you will find that Holley also offers a way to integrate a Wide Band O2 sensor for tuning) http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/C950/C950.html Features and Engine / Hardware Compatibility Works with 4, 6 (even fire), and 8-cylinder engines. Can operate as a speed density system - Uses engine vacuum to sense engine load. - Best for street-driven vehicles. - Achieves optimum response and driveability. Can operate in Alpha-N mode - Uses throttle position as indication of engine load. - Use with engine with low manifold vacuum due to radical cams. 16 x 16 Fuel and Ignition timing maps. Compatible with 1, 2 or 3 bar MAP sensors - Naturally aspirated engines. - Blown and turbocharged engines. Compatible with a GM and Chrysler IAC motor for best idle stabilization. Compatible with GM knock sensor. Operates in open or closed loop - Full control of closed loop parameters. Works with port fuel injection - Controls up to 8 high impedance injectors. - Controls up to four low impedance injectors. - Controls 8 low impedance injectors with the addition of PN 534-122. Works with throttle body fuel injection Controls throttle body with progressive or 1:1 linkage. Full timing for: - Startup and warm-up fuel enrichment. - Acceleration fuel enrichment based on MAP and TPS sensors. - Programmable RPM scale. Timing control function can be achieved through the use of: - Small cap computer controlled GM HEI (stock GM or Holley PN 890-160). - Large cap computer controlled GM HEI. - Ford TFI distributor. - Magnetic crank trigger. - Hall effect crank trigger. - Programmable fuel pump and cooling fan control. - Integrated rev limiter. - A data-logger is included with the software. - ECU size is 5.5" x 4.75" x 2.0".

Do you have any pictures of your SR with the Tec3 wired up? I would be interested in seeing how it cleans the motor up. I still haven't found too much info on what can be removed when switching to a SA EMS. Also, How did you setup the TPS sensor on the SR? Did it require any customizing?

I did some research on the Tec 3. Looks like a complete setup will run around $3000 with all the sensors and the harness. How easy is it to tune?

I also believe that a stand alone is the way to go... especially for us SR S30's. Many in the Silvia/240sx community seem to shy away from the stand alone and instead piggy-back the hell out of the stock ECU. This works very well for those that need to pass some sort of emissions testing ( since the stock ECU interfaces with all the smog equipment), and/or do not want the hassle of dyno tuning thier car. I feel that, whatever your setup (including stock), you can get alot more out of your engine with a SA EMS. The problem lies in choosing one. There are quite a few out there (spanning a wide price range). Any thoughts? I've been looking at the Autronic unit.

Rally 'round the family, pockets full of crude... I love how there is a 'probability' of immense oil wealth. All it takes (to verify it) is large amounts of money. Please send your checks to...

disregard

S13 coupe has ALWAYS been my favorite. Especially with a JDM front end conversion... just not a big fan of pop-ups (except on the 2nd gen RX-7... which I owned! )

Please do! I think I was misunderstanding what you were initially discussing. When you said 'taillight surround' I was thinking about the trim rings. I now believe you are talking about the entire taillight panel (because I re-read your first post). My brain is operating as if it was Friday. I don't imagine that you could get that panel much lighter with an FRP setup (well...definately not with E or S-glass). If you used only a few layers of CF (plus and minus 45 degree orientation of weaves), and wet the layup out carefully (not too much, not too little ) you could probably get it fairly light weight. You did say, however, that weight was not an issue. Am I correct in assuming that you will not be painting this piece? Keith

I'll be working on my car all weekend. I'll pull my trim pieces and see how easy they would be to duplicate. IIRC (since I haven't REALLY looked too hard at them in the past) the rings have some tight corners. Might be a good candidate for vacuum bagging. On such a tight part, though, I would imagine it would be hard to get the weave to line up and looking good (assuming the part wasn't painted). Now for my ignorance... are the rings screwed in or are they held in place with tabs?

Darn Keith, Couldn't you wait 6 months? LOL. That's on my list of things to do as well. -Keith (2)

That MAFS was probably manufactured by Hitachi (They have been a HUGE OE supplier to Nissan for 35+ years). The second set of numbers you listed (6X06D) is a lot code for the date of manufacture.

Remember that blue VQ45 Twin Turbo car from Japan? I think that car had darker or 'black' chrome. There's a lengthy post somewhere... my brain is fried this a.m. or I would post the link. Sorry.

There is no kit for this engine swap. As this swap becomes more and more popular one may come available. There is alot of good info on this site about this swap, though. Mostly in the 'Other Engines' forum.

Mine was only in slightly better shape than yours. Makes for a great take-er-down-to-nothing-and-build-a-cool-car project. Since we're on the subject of Bavarian art... I'll take an E30 M3 (yummy).