HB280ZT

I did something like that several years ago. It fit behind my MSA Type 3 air dam very nicely. I used the original bumper mounts but removed the strut portions and they even work as I had a minor run in with another car and the air dam was not really damaged. But the light bucket did not survive!

Great information, as I have a set of the ARP headstuds but did not get the instructions or the molly lube. So what is the torque specs using oil? HB280ZT

So Bobby C are you going to post any pictures? The reason that I ask is because I will be doing the same thing in a few months! HB280ZT

Hi All, Is anybody out there???? Still wondering how the 17X8.5 RB wheels are working out? Any pictures at all? Please include the tire sizes you went with? I really want to run 245/40/17 series tires on these rims with an offset of +20. Thanks for any information. HB280ZT

Guys, Thanks for the information but I found a solution. For starts when I took everything apart I cleaned and marked the shims just so I would have no problems when I assemble the diff. Well I took it apart again, checked everything and it was still like I took it apart. So I measured the shims again and they were .090 and .086. I then decided to try something and swap the two small shims from side to side and check the backlash. Well the backlash is now .005+ a bit when I checked it so I am within specs, boy was I lucky! So hopefully I will have it in my car tomorrow and on the road to see how it works. Thanks again for the help. HB280ZT

HI All, Been keeping up with all of the OBX threads and I decided to purchase one, plus the bolt and washer kit and the 10mm to 12mm shims for the ring bolts. Well I checked the backlash before taking the unit apart and it was at .006 of backlash, right in the middle, cool! I cleaned everything up and put it all back together just like it came apart and I marked and separated the shims so that there would be no issue when I assembled it. Well I got it all assembled and checked the backlash and it is .002 now, not good. I checked it in several places around the ring gear to see if maybe I got something wrong and it was the same. So now when I read the FSM it tells me to change shims but does not give me an idea of what to change them too, to get the right backlash. I understand the overall length has to stay the same and I need to move the ring gear out from the pinion gear to get the backlash within specs. So if anyone has any suggestions they are greatly appreciated?

Hi All, Well I have had my 1977 280Z turbo up to between 145 - 150 mph which depends on how accurate the speedo is. But what I really go by is the rpms and other factors that I put into a transmission calculator: http://webspace.webring.com/people/cz/z_design_studio/ That speed was on the back stretch of VIR during several different track days. Now my car is no where’s near stock and has been lowered, has coilovers, an airdamn plus pretty good power. The car was stable until I got into the climbing essses and then it gave me problems over about 110 mph, the back end became a bit squirrelly. I have added a rear spoiler that helps out tremendously in that area, but never got a chance to run the essses after the install. The car is even more stable now with the MSA type 3 airdamn installed and has no problems running up to 6200 rpms in 5th gear. That would put me at about 150 mph. Please do not try that on the street as it is just plan stupid. Find a track and have some fun in a safe environment.

MisterZ, Not sure if this will help or not but I put my friends 17X7 +38 offset rims, 225/45X17 series tires on my 77 280Z with coilovers and in the back they cleared fine. Now the only reason that I could not check them on the front was beacause the hole in the middle of the rim was to small to clear the center hub assembly. Like I said may not help but! HB280ZT

I can think of one more item that I would do if I was rebuilding everything. How about having the rotating mass balanced and blueprinted? HB280ZT

To bad about the car and the boost controller problems. I guess I am back to trying to figure out how to get this to work as I need something other then a manual boost controller to play with. Oh well there has to be away to just turn the boost controller on and off when you hit a set boost. Will keep you all posted if I figure out something. HB280ZT

Hi Guys, Any more update on the MS boost controller?? Have you been able to get back to your target boost of 20psi yet, if so give us the information and pictures if you can. HB280ZT

Rossman, thanks for the info. I will just have to see what size lines I can run and get some made to fit., maybe an 6AN if it will fit in the t-housing. Now I need to figure out some kind of a T fitting into the line running from the water pump to the heater core. We will see what I come up with during this winters rework time. So add it to my list of things to do!! HB280ZT

Sorry to revive such an old thread but I want to update my turbo by adding a water cooled center section. But I am not sure how to route the coolent lines. So if someone has any good pictures that would be great. HB280ZT

Hi All, Well after lots of research and taking my turbo apart and measuring all parts it was determined that I had a modified diesel truck compressor wheel almost like an H series. Well this wheel would work great if I was running 25 to 45 psi but I was only running 15 psi. So what I had to do was replace the compressor wheel with one more suitable to my needs. I choose a 62-1 wheel and had a semi local shop change out the wheel, rebuild the turbo and do some machine work on the compressor housing. After all that work I no longer have any turbo surge!! yea!! Boost time!! Now I just need to work on the tune some and hopefully get to the dyno to really see what the car can do. Maybe even bump up the boost to 20 psi and see how she runs! HB280ZT

So did you ever get this issue resolved? If so any information and pictures on your enginge movement?