J Taylor

Well damn. I was afraid of that. I pulled the axles out of one of my parts cars so I know they are right. I just didn't realize they were different lengths so I apparently have them in the wrong sides. Thanks a bunch guys. JT

I have the cv adapters from ROss installed on my 78 and went to put the CV's in yesterday. I got the pass side in, no problem except for the axle hitting the sway bar. Seems like I have heard of this problem before. What is the common way around it? Looks like I can get longer "links" and moving the mouting point up for the bar about an inch or so it should fix the problem(I hope). I went to the driver side and the CV wouldn't go in place. It slid all the way into the diff but I couldn't get the other end into place. It seems to be a couple of inches too long. Both axles are the same length, right? ANyone else had this problem? JT

M3's are the sweetest of the 3 but I would probably have to opt for the cobra. I had a modded 94 cobra as a daily driver for quite a while and it was awesome. Cheap and easy to hop up....add a little blue bottle and they will fly. Hoping my 86 turbo toyota pickup will now feed my need for daily speed once I get it like I want it. JT

How about ZZZZZZZ? Oh yeah, that one would be taken. Haha. Could always get ZZZZZZ2. JT

All turbos are 5 lug. Only 84-85 non turbos had 4 lug which are 4x4.5(4x114.3), same as s30's. JT

UPS and Fedex for sure won't do it. I checked both their websites and even went to UPS locally here. The box is going to be approx 55x25x25 which is quite a bit too big. I did even talk with a Mail boxes store I used to use alot before I found out about the UPS main place. He even said he couldn't ship it and it was way too big for UPS. He told me to call "Craters & Freighters" or something like that which I had already been turned to earlier and they wanted like $250 to do it. A place called Freightliner quoted $75 but they wouldn't insure it which is not an option. After going to about 5 places today one place did tell me to try Forward Air like one of the above posts mentions. I haven't called them yet but will in the morning for sure. Only good thing about this is the learning experience I guess. Aviatorx: Thanks a bunch for the info and numbers. I will try them in the morning. JT

Both are saying the deminsions are too big to ship with them. I've gotta figure something out though. JT

Sold a 240z dash on ebay the other day and am having problems trying to ship it. It's too big for fedex or UPS to take. Has anyone here shipped one before? How did you send it? Also, where did you find a box big enough to fit it? Thanks, JT

When I had to pull my crane cam out I did a little research and found it's supposed to be for "mild" turbo setups which I don't have. I sent it back and put the stocker back in. Looking to put in another real turbo cam while the car is down for the SDS install. Can anyone recommend a "good" turbo cam and tell me where to get it and about how much it should cost? Thanks alot! JT

I have owned several of the big name shifters(hurst, B&M, steeda, pro-5.0) and they are all really about the same but my personal preference out of the ones I've tried is the pro-5.0. Go to a mustang forum such as www.corral.net and look in the classifieds and you can find them all the time for $80-100. Regardless of which one you get it will be a big improvement over the stock junk. JT

I keep hearing they are junk but the deltagate I have had on my z for a couple of years is several years old and has never give me a bit of a problem. I am upgrading to a standard HKS 40mm when it goes back together. I have a Tial on my toyota truck and it is a really nice peice. Haven't put it to the test yet but it's impressive looking at least. JT

I talked to Abid this afternoon. He said the first header should be done the first part of next week. he is supposed to be sending a pic of it to me when it'd done. He said the deadline on the group buy would be when the last one is done which would probably be the middle/end of next week. He also said it comes with a dealtagate flange but he can make the flange for whatever wastegate you want to use. JT

Not sure if you are interested or not but I am installing SDS on my car and am selling my old setup which made 350+ at the wheels. If you are only looking for about 300 at the wheels this would be a cheap way to get it. What I have is the 370cc injectors and a turbo AFM "calibrated" to work with the injectors. I am asking $150 for the setup. This also comes with a modified stock fuel rail and a turbo Fuel pressure regulator. Also have a brand new aluminum fuel rail with mounting hardware and all for $120. Give me an email if you think you are interested. JT

Any chance of getting a pic of the header before I commit? What wastegate flange is going to be on it? How soon are we going to need to pay for them? Thanks alot, JT

Let me know some details on this header please. I very well may go in with you guys on it. Any clue if the turbo will be in the stock location? What kind of price are we talking about? JT

James: What I need is a 12mm 1.25 to a -4 and a 12mm 1.00 to a -4. They have the latter listed but not the first. Know of any other places that may have the 1.25? That place will definately come in handy in the future. It is a PITA to find metric adapters. Thanks, JT

James: Where did you find the adapters for the #4 or #3? I talked to Reed yesterday and he said I can use whatever size I want as long as I have a restrictor.....he said .080 for the z and .060 for the truck. Does this sound right? JT

Been working on running down all the AN fittings I need for my z and toyota pickup as well. One thing I am doing to both and having problems with is the turbo feed line. On the truck, I need 12mm 1.25 on both ends and on one end for the z as well. Earls doesn't sell that adapter to a #4 which is what I want. The guy at the speed shop says a #6 will be fine. I see no reason it wouldn't but it seems like I read something here a while back about having too big of a turbo feed line. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks, JT

Shane: Depending on which gauge you have, if your probe is mounted before the turbo, you should be looking at around 1500 F or 800 celcius. JT

Yes, this was all on stock electronics with flapper door AFM and 370cc injectors. I ended up putting another stock motor in it since I picked it up for $50 and have since then made 388rwhp and 421 lb/ft torque at 20psi but it was very very lean. I am in the process of installing SDS with 52# injectors at the moment so hopefully it will hold up ok. I'm trying to pick up a rb25 or rb26 in the next 6 months or so rather than building the L28. Not that I will end up doing it for sure but that's the plan for the moment. JT

I called them several times today and kept getting an answering machine. I left a message so hopefully I will hear something soon. I am really interested in this if the price isn't TOO outrageous. JT

Hmmm. I've been looking for something like this. I think I'll give them a hollar. Thanks for posting this. JT

Walker was either making 358 or 362....I'm wondering if that was on pumpgas b/c the best I got out of it on pumpgas was 339 but that was with stock throttle body. I mainly wanted to see yesterday what the car would do at the same boost level but with the 60mm throttle body and ported head. To keep the same boost level now it HAD to have race gas. So I basically picked up 21rwhp from the headwork and throttle body if you don't count having race gas. Can't figure out how the hell Walker made so much power unless he was running some good octane as well. I have a pair of CV's in a parts car as well but it seems like from what I've read it's kind of a pain to put in and you have to buy adapters and all that crap. Is it easier than I'm thinking? If I go with the 8.8 it probably won't cost much of anything after I sell all my old parts and I wouldn't worry abit about leaving as hard as I want and breaking **** unless it's the transmission....again. I'm rough on drivetrain parts. JT

Took the car back to the dyno today on some race gas just to see what it will do before and after the SDS install. Jacked the boost up to 20psi and the car put out 388 rwhp and 421 torque . This was just a tad too much boost and the car was running dangerously lean so I backed it back down to 17psi and the car made 360 rwhp and I think right at 390 torque. This was fairly safe but again, it was on 110 octane. Keep in mind this is on stock electonics with the "flapper door" AFM and all that good stuff and also with a stock 150k mile shortblock and stock cam. Took the car to dragstrip tonight and ripped the driver side half shaft in-to on the first launch. This is after breaking the front u-joint 2 weeks ago on launch as well . I have a 8.8 rear end from a mustang sitting here so I'm going to see about putting it in tomorrow so I guess I'll probably be selling my 18" wheels, 3.70 LSD, and rear coilovers. Does anyone have any good pics of a 4 link setup in a z? JT

I need stronger U-joints but the place I bought my driveshaft from said there aren't any. They said the only way to do it was to machine down a different slip yoke to make it work and then make some sort of an adapter for the back for a different joint to work....to the tune of about $400. The driveshaft I have has replaceable u-joints and is about an inch shorter than stock to work with the T5. Does anyone here know something they don't about getting better u-joints? JT