J Taylor

I am the world's worst about sending in rebates. I may send in 1/5. I recently bought a wireless router from Best buy. $69 but with a $60 rebate. Hell yeah, $10 for a nice router. But then I go and wait until the 30 days has passed and the rebate is no good anymore. My last 2 cellphones, I forgot to send the rebates in on them as well. For some reasons I just can't seem to get rebates mailed in. JT

Yeah, the z32 turbo clutch is 250mm. Wonder if the rb26 flywheel will bolt to a rb25 block. Hmmmm. Are you sure the rb26 clutch is 250mm? I was under the impression the 25 and 26 clutches would interchange for some reason. JT

z32 na is 240mm. It is supposed to work on a l28 turbo flywheel as well. JT

For whatever it's worth I'm using the same 240mm clutch on the RB that I was using on the L28. JT

Thats cool. Didn't realize you weren't quoting US prices. Not hurting my feelings a bit. I had to wait about 6-8 weeks for these to come in by the way. Don't be suprised if you have to as well. JT

I think you emailed me before and I didn't have any pickups at the time. I do have 3 pans and 2 pickups at the moment. Price for a pan and pickup set is $290 + shipping or $250 just for the pan. Email me if you are still interested. Thanks, JT By the way, I have shipped several to Australia and it seems like shipping was around $40 or so..

I've considered selling mine a few times. It's a 71 wagon and would come with another pretty much complete wagon parts car. It has had the firewall cut and boxed in for the vg30 turbo to bolt in. Motor mounts are already there, as is the tranny crossmember and the correct driveshaft to use the 300zx t5 transmission. I have a engine, tranny, wiring harness, mass air, ECU, pretty much everything to finish it except the fuel system and time to put it together. I would consider letting everything go for around $1750 if someone was interested. Body is overall pretty straight and I don't think there is any rust anywhere on it. Has a 240z rack and pinion, and I believe 280zx front brakes but could be wrong on that part. I would really hate to part with it after it taking me years to get it from the previous owner but I'm just not going to have any time to mess with it for a while more than likely. JT

Looks like the sticker was scuffed. Are you sure it didn't at one time say L28 on the box and get scuffed where it made it look like a 0? Either way, the part number is correct so I wouldn't worry about it as long as there is the correct amount of studs in the box. Wasn't there a 2.0L L series 6 cyl in Japan? JT

240z_master: You have mail. JT

I have 2 wagons and one is for parts. Let me know what you need and I may can help you out, as long as my other wagon doesn't need it. JT

I've been wanting to build some old muscle car/antique car with an import motor such as the rb or 2jz just to piss of the old domestic guys. LOL. JT

I have a few brand new z31 rb20 rear sump oil pans. I should have several pickups soon. Email if you are interested in buying one. Thanks, JT

The commercial I hate the most is the hardees comercial talking about the big block el camino being the ultimate toy. Anyone else heard it? "WIth 2 4-barrels it can smoke anything on 4 wheels from a stop". Not sure what having 2 carbs has to do with traction but hey, whatever. LOL. JT

Maybe kinda of a band aid fix but it supposedly is very effective. A friend locally with an 8 sec mustang uses one. My friend that works at nissan was talking to motorsports about the oil pump problem and he mentioned this as well. CHeck it out and let me know what you think. Could be a relatively inexpensive solution to the problem. http://www.accusump.com/ JT

Jay1970z: I will try to email you some pics tomorrow. 73lt1z: The car has a manual and AC. Most of the ac parts are sitting in the hatch. I will try to email some pics tomorrow. Thanks, JT

Where in Florida are you? I've got a straight 71 240z for sale. I can send pics if you are interested? I'm about 45 mins from the AL/FL state line. JT

Got my motor pretty much finished up. Turned it over for about a min, 10-15 secs at a time and getting no oil flow. In the process of pulling the oil pan/pump at the moment. What I'm trying to figure out though, is that since the oil pump has the backing plate, how do you prime it? Other pumps I've seen you can just pack with grease/vaseline to get them primed. Can't do that with the plate in the way. ANyone know what I should do to get it primed? Someone else mentioned I may have to pump oil throught he pickup hole in the block and also through the filter hole to get the oil through the motor. Also, is there any way to fix the oil pump drive problem without pulling the crank? If the crank has to come out, I'm going to want to go ahead with new rings/bearings and probably some good pistons. But then, what's the point of doing that while keeping the head stock? LOL. The while-I'm-at-it's always get the best of me. 3 years ago I took the car down to do a cv conversion.....3 yrs later I have a rb25 with custom manifolds, big turbo, etc, etc and still haven't driven it. I've got to stop somewhere and just get it running. Thanks for any help, JT

I play with some local friends several nights a week usually. If anyone else plays, look me up. Gamertag is: JT

Tim, did you get my payment for 2 shirts? JT

Uhhh, yeah, I'll be there next time too. Of course I've said that the past 2 times as well. LOL. I'll be catching a ride with a buddy this time around. JT

Looks damn nice. JT

I dig mine. Too bad I gotta put a transmission in it now. Doh. JT

I have a brand new rb20 front sump pan sitting in the garage. I paid $150 for it and would like to get the same back. Also have some new pickups if you need one. Let me know. JT

Tim, if you have a couple of xl's to spair I will take them. If you will let me know how much I will paypal you the money. Thanks, JT