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dmanzo57

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Everything posted by dmanzo57

  1. '72 240Z, ~2725 lbs at starting line 383ci small block Chevy 200-4R 4-speed auto trans R200 open diff, 3.55 gears 235/60-15 BFG drag radials on 15x8 wheels 60': 1.77 1/8: 7.43 @ 93.24 1/4: 11.58 @ 119.61 Don
  2. dmanzo57

    TH400 spacing?

    http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm Don
  3. That distribution block is also a differential pressure switch. If you lose pressure in the front or rear, the switch closes and lights the brake warning light. Don
  4. You can get new speedo gears from your local Chevy dealer. The following web page has info on what gears are available and how to figure out which gears you need... http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/speedo_gears.htm The Datsun speedo uses 1024 revs per mile vs. 1001, so make that change when you do the math. The gears run about $30 to $40. Don # Drive Teeth X Axle Ratio X Tire Rev. per Mile -------------------------------------- = # Driven Teeth 1024 Use the following formula to calculate the Tire Rev. per Mile for the above formula. 20168 Tire Rev. per Mile = ---------------------- Tire Diameter (inches)
  5. No trouble at all. The line lock didn't come with any fittings or switch. I had to get that stuff at my local parts store. I mounted the toggle switch on the console, on the door that covers the fuse box. I'm running an auto trans, so I just use the foot brake at the starting line. The line lock is used for the burnout only. Don
  6. I recently installed a line lock in my '72 240z. I got the Biondo line lock from Summit for $40. I spent another ~$15 on bake lines, fittings, and a cheap tubing bender. The instructions said to install the line lock after the brake pressure warning switch, but that would really complicate the plumbing. I noticed that a few members here installed it between the master and the warning switch, so I did the same. I bought two metric to 3/16 adapters and then used 3/16 lines and fittings to plumb it up. Result: http://home.earthlink.net/~mmanzo/_uimages/v8z_burnout1.jpg Don
  7. I found some more info at NHRA.com... NHRA finalizes 1999 rules changes 9-7-98 INDIANAPOLIS - The NHRA General Rules Committee finalized rule changes for the 1999 racing season at a meeting Wednesday night during the U.S. Nationals. Details on some rule changes are still being ironed out, but highlights of the changes are as follows. E.T. Brackets A long-standing rule that requires any car with independent rear suspension (IRS), weighing over 2000 pounds, and running 10.99 or quicker to replace the IRS with a conventional rear-end housing has been modified. For 1999, only those IRS designs which utilize a lower control arm only (like a 1963 to 1982 Corvette) will have to comply with the above requirement. If the suspension utilizes both upper and lower control arms, the IRS may be retained regardless of weight or e.t. Don
  8. I would consider the strut to be the upper control arm. I don't know what NHRA thinks... Don
  9. dmanzo57

    Shifter

    Dan's right. There's a long cable between the shifter and the transmission. Don
  10. dmanzo57

    Shifter

    I apologize for the picture quality. Bad light and a cheap camera... I hope this helps. Don
  11. dmanzo57

    Shifter

    The Hurst Quarter Stick should fit without cutting the console. I've got one in my '72. I covered the hole in the tunnel with a 1/8" thick plate and mounted the shifter to the plate. I can take a couple of pictures if it will help. Don
  12. Here's the formula I used to figure out which speedo gears I needed to recalibrate my speedo after changing rear end gears and tire sizes... Note: Drive gear refers to the gear that is on the transmission output shaft. The driven gear is located in a removable housing usually in the tailhousing of the transmission. # Drive Teeth X Axle Ratio X Tire Rev. per Mile ---------------------------------- = # Driven Teeth 1024 Use the following formula to calculate the Tire Rev. per Mile for the above formula. 20168 ---------------- = Tire Rev. per Mile Tire Diameter (inches) Don
  13. Dan, I checked the wiring on my '72 this weekend. Here's what I've got: Black/white wire(previously coil +) connected to red wire from tach adaptor. Green/white wire connected to swithed +12V. I hope this helps. Don
  14. My car didn't have a horn button when I bought it, so I installed a chrome one that one of my Father-in-law's tenants left behind... Don
  15. Here are some estimates assuming you are starting with a 350 that needs a rebuild... ~ $25 more for 383 pistons vs. 350 ~ $325 for new 383 crank ~ $220 for new harmonic damper(SFI, external balance) ~ $60 for external balanced flexplate ~ $?? clearance block and rod bolts for stroker crank. Don
  16. OK, try connecting the green/white wire to switched +12V. The green/white and one of the black/white wires are connected together through a loop in the tach. I had the same problem, tach only worked during cranking, when I put mine together but it's been almost two years since then. Don
  17. Dan, I think you want to connect the red wire from the tach adaptor to the other black/white wire, +12V when ignition is on. Don
  18. My HP calc says, at 2450 lbs, you only need ~490 rwhp(and a good launch) to run a 9.99. That should put you at about 136 MPH. I would weigh the car first. It's would be more accurate than calculating based on HP. Don
  19. Thanks, DAW. If I can find the shims, I'd like to give it a try. Don
  20. I remember reading about this trick for the 9" Ford open differential. It involved adding shims in the differential to tighten it up and make it act like a posi-traction, for a while at least. Would this work on a R200 open differential? Where would the shims need to be placed? Thanks, Don
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