TimZ

I don't remember if you said where the cam timing was for these runs. I'd also be interested in the ignition timing map, if its changed since it was last posted. As others have mentioned, the timing seems a bit low, and usually it helps to ramp a bit of ignition advance back in after the torque peak - maybe ramp in 2 or 3 degrees from torque peak to redline. (i.e., if your torque peak is at 4000rpm and redline is 7000rpm, add 1 degree at 5000, 2 degrees at 6000 and 3 degrees at 7000).

15-20psi at idle and ~45psi under power sounds pretty much dead nuts normal for an L-series with a stock oil pump. It doesn't sound to me like there is anything wrong with your pump from that description.

I was trying to be polite. What I was trying to point out was that the coolant temps would drop much farther in low heat load conditions, such as cruising down the highway on a cool day, and then would probably run about the same temperature when the heat load is high, which would result in a wider swing in temperatures than if you had not bypassed the thermostat. This, by the way would not be a good thing.

If I'm interpreting your question correctly, running into the upper housing would bypass the thermostat, which would most likely make your water temps swing more widely.

Hey Jeff - is this your car? The sounds, that is... http://jalopnik.com/5250435/jaw+dropping-stop-motion-vintage-japanese-toy-car-chase

No idea on the SPL (I'm assuming that this is what you were looking for in the decible rating question). Exhaust Pulse Frequency: 3000rpm single runner: (3000rev/min)*(1min/60sec)*(1 pulse/2 rev)=25pulse/sec 3000rpm at the collector: (3000rev/min)*(1min/60sec)*(6 pulses/2 rev)=150 pulses/sec 3500rpm single runner: 29.17pulse/sec 3500rpm at the collector: 175 pulses/sec

I'm still confused as to the reasoning behind saying that E85 is only good for drag racing - is this just based on availability? Back to the original question - As far as the engine conversion goes, it would help to know what you are using for fuel delivery (Carb? EFI? Progammable?) Then on the vehicle side, you will want to go through the fuel system and replace any ancient hoses that might be in there with Ethanol-compatible equivalents - NAPA sells compatible fuel hose, and if you want something fancier, Jegs is pretty good about calling out what is compatible and what is not. Make sure that there are no brass components in the system - replace with either anodized aluminum or stainless. I've seen some say that they have not had problems with aluminum bits, but I took my aluminum fuel lines and fuel rail to a local anodizing shop and had them anodozed. Finally, it would be a good idea to pull your fuel tank and have it cleaned and internally coated with an alcohol-resistant coating (I used Red-Kote as I recall). On cars this old, there will almost certainly be a fair amount of lacquer - like coating on the inside of the tank, which the ethanol will dislodge and either clog your fuel filter or your pump - this seems to account for most of the "Ethanol killed my fuel pump" stories. Also some tanks (and I have no idea as to whether this is the case for the Z) have a "Terne coating" as a corrosion inhibitor, which gets leached away by the ethanol - this is why I recommended using the internal coating.

It continually amazes me as to how much superstition exists out there about E85, and how "evil" some think it is. The main race fuel available here is Turbo Blue, which is leaded and currently costs $6.58/gal. I've tried this stuff before, and it totally crapped up my combustion chambers and plugs with lead deposits. Let's see - less power, higher EGTs, combustion chamber deposits, can't run a wideband (or any O2 sensor for that matter) any length of time, and it costs more than three times as much. No thank you - I'll stick with the "tree hugging" E85. BTW - I've been meaning to post this up - here are some pics of my exhaust manifold, turbine housing and turbine impeller after a full summer of E85 and several 600+ hp dyno pulls (yes, that is clean, bare cast iron on the inside of the turbine housing):

E85 goes all the way down to E70 in the winter for the reasons stated. (Regular gas gets different mixes for winter too, btw). The stoichiometric point goes from 9.8 to 10.7 - so if you've tuned for the summer blend, you'll be ~10% rich, which isn't a huge disaster. I've not been hearing of people having a whole lot of problems with E85 when stored over the winter, or doing anything special before putting the car away for the winter - I think if you have a sealed tank its not that big of a deal. I guess I'll find out shortly.

Why bother reading the first post in the thread? Why not?

Much better. Sorry but I have to ask - is the braided line that is connected to the right angle fitting in the pic below touching the battery cable? I'm assuming that it isn't and the picture was just taken from a weird angle, right? I wouldn't be comfortable with less than an inch of clearance there if the stainless braid is to remain uncovered like that.

Hey - same age as me! Happy B-day Pete!

Okay, so now we have established that changing the timing did in fact help - in this case it wouldn't hurt to review the timing map

He's talking Celsius, not Fahrenheit. 1050C is over 1900F. That's pretty hot.

So you are saying that you advanced the timing, right?

FWIW, here's what my last dyno pull looked like with my GT42r: Airflow was calculated using wideband afr readings, injector flow rate and pulsewidth and assuming E85 fuel. The pulls were done pretty close to the time of year when E85 gets switched over to E70 for cold weather startability, so I dont know exactly what the mix was. If the calculations are done assuming E70, the flow numbers get pushed farther to the right.

Okay -it looks like they did rehost, and the dns forwarding works for some but not others. If you are still having problems, try this address instead: http://electromotivetec.freeforums.org/

The compressor efficiency can effect the EGTs, but as I recall elevated intake air temps should translate directly to the EGT (i.e., elevating the intake air temp by 50deg should elevate the exhaust temp by ~50 deg, all else equal). So, in order for this to be the main problem the intake air temps would have to be pretty high. Which begs the question - what are the intake air temps? While it sounds like you trust your tuner, it would still be helpful to know some details such as ignition timing, air temps, AFR, C/R, cam timing/specs, fuel type, etc. This would enable us to ask more intelligent questions and give more intelligent answers. In my experience (L-series, not RB), I didn't start seeing high EGTs until I went to a very large turbine housing (GT42R with 1.15 AR).

Sorry, but no. Since the higher CR results in higher efficiency, this means that more energy is being converted into work, and less heat is left in the exhaust gasses.

...aaaannnddd now its back down again. Looks like maybe they are rehosting on a new server, maybe?

Looks like the forum is back up this morning.

Bah - Gotta start somewhere.

That looks really great, except for this: You should NEVER let electrical wires touch a Stainless braided hose. This will be an almost instant disaster - the hose will abrade the battery cable insulation (probably in the first 100 miles or so), then it will short it to ground, burning a hole through the hose and pouring fuel onto the arcing battery cable. Not good. Not trying to sound like a prick, but this MUST be addressed before you drive the car. If you have to have the hose and wires routed like that, then you should put some firesleeve over the hose to keep it from rubbing against the wiring.

Bleed the outside first. Did you remember the two bleeders at the master cylinder?

If you are worried about getting too much oil to the turbo, you can always put a restrictor inline with the turbo's oil feed.