TimZ

I'd say that would do the trick... http://www.stangnet.com/Ford-Mustang/Shelby-GT-H-Promo-Video.html

When I've had custom driveshafts made, having the yoke about 1 inch from bottoming was always the target, so it sounds like you are just right.

OK - I'll check tomorrow. Since it worked okay for me, I never really had a reason to check. Thanks, Jon.

Just to clarify on my data point above - my Wilwoods have the smaller 1.38" pistons all around. The MC has been replaced with what I thought to be another stock 280Z MC (which I believe is 7/8"), and I do not feel the pedal travel to be excessive. Is there an easy way to check to see if my replacement MC was realy the 280Z piece, short of taking it apart?

Sounds reasonable, Jon - the pads I have now are definitely more biased towards street driving - not sure about the carbon/kevlars. The original pads were what Dave supplied with the calipers. I don't know what gets supplied these days, I got mine shortly after they became available back in the late 80's. I'm out of town right now - I'll check on the pedal travel when I get home.

I don't know whether technically the 'squishyness' of the pedal was any different before/after as far as pedal travel vs. applied force goes, but the difference in decel vs. applied force (and hence travel) was remarkably different. It literally went from not being able to lock the wheels no matter how hard I stood on it to having to be careful not to. I'd estimate that the pedal force to decel ratio improved by a factor of ~2-3. It's always seemed strange to me too - the original pads were never bedded in properly (I was much younger then and didn't know better - the internet didn't exist yet ) so that might have been part of it, but the difference was pretty huge.

BTW - I'm pretty sure I still have the Carbon/Kevlar pads sitting in a box in my garage if you want to try something different. They didn't have more than a few hundred miles on them, they just tended to be a bit too squealy for my taste.

Is your distributor still fastened down?

Hey, check this out - I made onto Defi's JDM site! http://www.nippon-seiki.co.jp/defi/user/user_top.html They contacted me and wanted to know if it was "okay" to add me to the Japanese site - they didn't know of any S30's in Japan with Defi gauges.

I have the AZ Zcar brakes and I'm still using the stock '78Z master cylinder. My brakes are fine. When I first installed them I had problems similar to what you are describing - soft pedal, seemed like you had to stand on them to get the car to stop. Pretty much couldn't lock the wheels under any circumstances. Several years later I decided to try a different set of pads (carbon kevlar) - this time I properly bedded them in, and these pads made a world of difference - firm pedal, and I now had to be careful not to lock the wheels on hard decel. I've since changed over to Wilwood's 'Gator' pads and they work fine, too. I don't know if it's the pads, or the fact that I properly bedded the new pads in, but they work really well now. BTW, you won't be able to get away with not using the prop valve for long once you get things working properly - I have my rears backed all the way out, and it's just barely enough. One time a couple of years ago after working on the brakes I forgot that I had the prop valve misadjusted and put the car completely sideways when I tried to stop late for a red light. Had to sit at the front of the line with the car sideways in the lane until the light turned green. :shock:

Looks like somebody forgot what web forum they were posting to. This is hybridZ.org in case you've forgotten.

Crap - didn't notice this thread early enough. I have a pair of MR2 rears that I was not able to use - they were shorter than the stock Z fronts, but only by an inch or so, as I recall. If you stll have problems, I'll go check the part numbers.

Mine fit just fine, too - sorry.

$6.79/qt US From what I've read so far the amount of zinc determines how long it protects, rather than how well it protects, so higher content doesn't work better, but it will protect against metal to metal contact for a longer period of time. How much is enough is unclear, but I had trouble finding anything current that claimed higher than 0.13%, FWIW.

I just ordered some from my local (not a NAPA - I think its a CarQuest) mom and pop auto parts store - they had some trouble identifying it at first, but I think we got it figured out. Should be in tomorrow. This store had the dino NSL racing oil in stock, btw, so the "street legality" wasn't an issue for them.

Here is what I was able to come up with - the only oils where zinc is rated are the conventional ones, so I think it's safe to say the others are zinc-less. http://www.kendallmotoroil.com/Product+Data+Sheets/MotorOil.htm

Here's a few to get you started: ...okay that link didn't work - just do a search with "Steve" and "TEP" and see what you find.