TimZ

Just went and found your previous post on this - so what happens if you don't have the clutch adjusted for no play? Does the clutch not disengage?

I'm running BPR8ES at .030".

One other thing - if you really think you'll need to be able to hold 500 lb ft of torque, you'll need to be looking for a different trans, which would make that clutch a moot point anyway...

Only place I know of is to go directly to BHJ: http://www.bhjinc.com/2dynamics/dynamics-landing.htm

I've been extremely happy with my BHJ damper - the quality is excellent:

Just an observation - how much vacuum do you plan to have at idle? Your map goes all the way down to 20kPa, which is about 24inches of vacuum. If your engine doesn't pull that much at idle, then you might be better off starting at a higher kPa and giving yourself more resolution where you can actually use it.

Not sure what your current settings are, but you might consider running less timing at idle, and opening up your idle air bypass (throttle stop, needle valve, etc) to let more air in. Decreasing the initial timing will bring the idle speed down, opening up the bypass brings it back up and leans out the mixture in the process.

Although I agree with everything else in the last post, this statement is not correct. Silicone-based DOT5 is probably the worst choice for race cars, due to its previously mentioned heat expansion characteristics. Basically it causes a soft pedal when the brakes heat up - this is well documented. DOT5 silicone based fluid is only good for show cars that are not driven often, and are not raced. Also note that DOT5.1 is not silicone based, and is a good choice for performance applications.

Not sure if I was clear on this - the sintered iron disc that I mentioned is not a puck sytle disk

My last best dyno pull was 467hp, 437lb-ft at the wheels on a dynojet. This was with the sintered iron setup I was referring to earlier. I believe that I'm making more than that now with the new cam, although I have not had a chance to dyno it. Not had problems yet. I get a very small amount of chatter on soft launches in traffic, but I have a fairly tall 1st gear (~50mph at 7000rpm in first). It's far better than the six puck clutch I had in there before.

Clutch Specialties can do a clutch with that same ACT pressure plate and a sprung hub, sintered iron disc, that still holds 500 lb-ft and behaves much better. I'm currently using that setup, and it works well. It isn't particularly cheap (~$500), but it works. Ditto for the CFDF, with maybe slightly higher power levels.

You might also try running fuels that don't contain alcohol - these seem to vaporize at lower temps than regular fuel. Other solutions - insulate the fuel rail with thermal wrap if you use an electric fan, wire it to run off a thermo switch after the engine is shut off on the 280ZX, Datsun started using a small fan that mounted on the passenger side with a duct that went over the valve cover and blew cooler air directly on the fuel rail - if you can find one of these it should bolt right up - again, you'll need to wire it with a thermoswitch.

I think you meant to say that you need an FPR that delivers a constant pressure differential from manifold pressure (i.e., a 1:1 FPR), right? Constant absolute fuel pressure (i.e., 40psi at the rail no matter what) is not what you want.

As I recall, the shiny coatings (even from JetHot) are only good to about 1400degF, which is pretty difficult to avoid on a set of headers.

Just got a postcard in the mail - Kevin has moved his shop: The Gear Box 31759 Block, Bldg C Garden City, MI 48135 734-793-0727 phone 734 793 0729 - fax

Just be aware that the high misalignment ends have a larger thread than the bore (the regular ones use the same thread size and bore size). So, for a 5/8" bore you'll have to use a 3/4" thread. The main thing is just to make sure that you don't bind the rod end through your full range of travel. Just wanted to point out that this is not a given. I think you could probably space the safety washers away from the ball by putting some small spacers between the washers and the ball. Maybe use a lockwasher or a small section of the same tubing that you are using for the bumpsteer adjustment, for instance. That way you should be able to retain the travel in the rod end.

I used steel rod and drilled and tapped both ends. Also, you have to drill out the taper in the steering knuckle to get a smooth bore. One other thing you want to watch is the misalignment of the rod end. Because of the shape of the knuckle and its orientation in the car, a straight tie rod will cause a regular rod end end to bind (at least it did on my car) - they only have about 12deg of travel as I recall. I had to put a bend in my tie rods in order to get the rod end at the correct angle to prevent binding throughout the suspension travel.

I must be reading that wrong - you don't really expect to do all that for under $3000, do you? The trans and clutch will most likely chew that up all by themselves, assuming you do all the fab by yourself.

If I could fit a 60mm HKS gate with a T64, you ought to be able to fit a deltagate (it's probably not big enough for a T70, btw). Did you look underneath the turbo? All kinds of room there... The pop-off valve schemes were tried early on, and were largely abandoned for the wastegate setup. Problem is that by regulating via a leak on the compressor side, you are putting the compressor out of it's high efficiency envelope and forcing it to put out hotter air right when you need it the least. This type of setup works best with low boost applications (or as a safety backup) - presumably not what you would run a T70 for. Also, I don't think you'll see an advantage in spoolup times - the wastegate is closed when you are off boost and cracking pressure issues would be similar for either setup.

I think my r230 does angle up a bit - I've got maybe 4mm clearance above the crossmember. I have my m-bar bushings cut down a fair aount to allow raising the rear of the diff a bit - there is only about 3mm of bushing above the m-bar. Also, you can sort of see in this pic that the mounting point for the front ears is about 1" (sorry to mix units ) higher than the control arm bushing centerline. I think my r230 is coming out considerably higher in the rear than what you show, since I still have sufficient clearance between those gigantic 6 bolt side flanges and the control arms (although I did have to trim them a bit).

Just keep in mind that my measurements wen't exactly the same as your mystery dimension - I modded your original pic to better illustrate what I was measuring: Also, one issue I see with this latest design is ground clearance - I would humbly suggest mounting the lower cradle outboard of and next to the lower bushing caps - remember you will still want to pass your exhaust under that rear crossbar.

Quick update - I just replaced the giant pic a few posts back with a much better one (more palatably sized), showing the relationship between the moustache bar and the uprights. I did some measurements, and it appears that the dimension between the front face of the m-bar and the rear face of the uprights (plane intersecting) is about 10mm. I got this dimension by making a few measurements relative to the crossbar on cradle, so I'd give it maybe +- 1mm in accuracy (if I'm lucky ).