TimZ

Yep - and you can have them balanced - most people just don't bother, as far as I can tell. I had my local driveshaft builder balance mine.

Here's a pic of the adapter I had made for the input flange:

...Something like ths, maybe?

Actually, I don't think it is. The heater hose usually connects to a hose barb that points straight back, and is located at the base of the water pump inlet at the engine. Here's a not so great pic of mine (I'm using AN fittings, but you should be able to see the orientation)... It looks like you just have a pipe plug in that fitting right now. Pull the plug, get a hose barb in there and hook it up.

I was going to do that, but when we got to looking at it my driveshaft guy noticed that the CV joint allows some amount of plunge (the driveshaft can move in and out of the CV). We decided not to go with that, since the shaft would have had plunge at both ends, meaning that the shaft would be able to float fore and aft about an inch, which is bad for balance and vibration in general. I had an adapter made to convert the six bolt flange to a four bolt. I'll take a couple of pics later. I think somebody mentioned at some point that the q45 r200's four bolt input flange is interchangeable, but I have not confirmed this.

I agree - the last thing you need is for some of that paint to peel off and clog your oil passages. Some of that will be on the wrong side of the filter. Also, don't forget to bolt that cam sprocket down. It's making me nervous just looking at it... Even with the engine out of the car, it's still a pain to pull the front cover to put the tensioner back together and re-time the chain.

Yes, that's right - the bellhousing and tailshaft did bolt right up. As I recall, we used a gear case from a Mustang WC T5. Also, the overall length and shifter placement remained the same as the original Datsun piece, so it ends up packaging pretty much exactly like the Datsun T5. On the gForce phone issue - my builder doesn't get the gearset from them - it appears that he uses the same supplier that they were using. I know he just got a new gearset in like two days ago - just talked to him yesterday. If you'd like to talk to him directly, try calling Kevin at: The Gear Box 26405 Northline Rd Taylor, MI 48180 (734) 946-6088 ...you might end up having to wait until the first of the year - I think he's going out of town for Xmas.

Thanks' date=' guys. The front diff mount is the stock piece from the 300zxtt. I notched it to fit and give the correct driveshaft clearance, and then gussetted it in. It originally looked like this: [img']http://home.comcast.net/~tzwicky/pics/diff_mount.jpg[/img] I stopped by the powdercoater today, and snapped a couple of pics of the transverse links. Here is the driver's side: And this is the passenger side: The welds aren't the prettiest, but it should hold...

What you will find with the gForce gearset is that it requires the use of a WC T5 gear case, which the Datsun piece is not. Also, the input and output shafts are much larger than those on the Datsun T5, so much so that the upgraded output shaft will not fit through the Datsun tailshaft, even with the seal removed. What we had to do to get this to work was to add material to the tailshaft and then machine a new hole that allowed the use of a WC T5 tailshaft seal. Here are some pics: Also, you will have to ditch pretty much everything from your original Datsun T5, except the bellhousing and the tailshaft housing. If you are interested, I can get you in touch with the guy I had put mine together - he's currently doing one of these for another forum member.

I'm using the z32tt diff, too, and I'm finding all of the same issues that you are... I just gave up on keeping the fuel pump in it's stock location, and moved it back between the mustache bar and the fuel tank. I then just cut off the offending side of the mounting bracket. I never much liked the idea of the pump sitting that close to the halfshaft, anyway. I always had mental images of a failed halfshaft taking out the pump, and the exposed 12v wiring sparking and starting a fire. I used a single washer between the diff and the mustache bar - just enough to clear the diff cover. My diff is also about as high as it can go without interfering with the frame in that area - I think I have about 1/16" of cleareance there, but it does clear. My transverse links also did interfere (more on the passenger side due to it's "flipped" orientation). I was able to solve that with a small amount of cutting and rewelding on the link. I'll try to get some pics of this as soon as I can - the parts are off getting powdercoated right now. I decided to make a cradle that bolts up from underneath to locate the diff and the front diff mount - here are some pics of the trial fitment...

Bump. That link seems to have quit working since the last upgrade. I'm interested in this, too...

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier - for some reason I wasn't getting email updates on this thread. I've had interference problems with the TEC2 also, although I doubt that this is unique to the TEC. I also tried shielding, etc., to no avail. The solution that I found was really quite simple. The magnetic field that the pickup is sensitive to has a polarity. If you change the orientation of the pickup 90 degrees to the interfering magnetic signal (in this case the pump motor's magnetic field), it no longer "sees" it. So, if you currently have the pickup oriented axially (pointing towards the center of rotation of the trigger wheel), you need to make a new pickup mount that orients the pickup facing for/aft at the edge of the wheel instead. It will still get the pulses from the trigger wheel, but it will no longer get the interfering pulses.

According to Arp, It looks like the 4206 kit is the correct one. On the fuel line, as Joel mentioned, -6 is a small as you will want to go. Also, I would recommend running -6 aluminum hard lines for the long run from the pump to the engine bay, then use shorter -6 flexible lines to connect to the hard lines at either end. This will be more reliable and far cheaper in the end than running a long length of -6 braided line. Finally, on the damper for use with the TEC3 - the one that TEP offers is a modified stock piece, and these have a reputation for failing with extended high rpm use. There is a company called BHJ that makes a real damper for the L-series, and it can be had with an Electromotive crank trigger - here are some pics of mine: ...as I recall this cost ~$400US with the trigger wheel installed. You'll still need to fab a mount for the pickup, but the trigger wheel is the hard part, and this is a far, far better steup than the TEP thing.

Bump.

I guess I should clarify - the transmission options aren't cheap if you want a manual. Some of the GM automatic solutions might not be that bad. Also, the existing viable clutch options are not any more expensive than the CFDF. You could always knock the boost down a bit until you can afford the rest...

Thanks, those are good links, but I don't think there's any question as to which diff we have (at least not in my case). The question is whether the q45 r230s have the same case dimensions as the 300zxtt r230s.

Any competent locksmith can do this. No magic here. The quality of a key cut to code is much, much better, btw. A competent locksmith can also make all of your locks match again, if you've had to replace one or more of them.

Just a thought - are you absolutely sure that the stock MC won't work? The McLeod hydraulic TOB that I'm using with my trans is supposed to require that same 3/4" MC, but I tried the stock one first, and it worked fine. Much less work that way...

I've been wondering about this as well. I also have the z32tt r230, and I've been noticing a few differences from the Q45 diffs that I've been seeing pics of. First off, the z32 diff cover has a slight bulge between the mounting studs. As a result the diff cover needed a washer on each mounting stud to shim it far enough away from the mustache bar that it would not interfere. I haven't seen anybody mentioning this so far. Also, I'm noticing that my mounting ears seem to be coming out farther to the right (passenger side) than the one in Tim240z's pics (actually, the 5/16" quoted above sounds pretty close). I've checked - it appears to be mounted square to the chassis and centered on the halfshaft flanges. Has anybody checked - are the mounting ears spaced the same on the two cases? I had assumed that they were, but now I'm starting to wonder...