heavy85

I think that's my problem. The pushrod was almost all the way screwed in. Tonight I backed it out probably 3/8" and your can now feel the pushrod begin to push the MC piston roughly 1/8-1/4" before the MC is flush the the spacer. I'm wondering now how much preload should there be on it as I don't want to drag the brakes? I'm thinking just a very slight amount like a mm or two? Thanks Cameron

The new one's only 14" so I guess John's got us all beat.

Mine's got the aluminum spacer just not in the pics. And yes I can fit the MC flush without tighening the nuts. Thanks Cameron

Damn - so no way to tell without dis-assembly huh? Be creative - there's got to be a way ... at least I hope. Thanks Cameron

A member on here recently said that he once in a previous life many years ago knew my car. Said it had a stroker motor in it which the guy I bought it from never mentioned but he was pretty clueless. I rebuilt the motor last year but didn't even think to measure it 'cause at the time I had no reason to. So is there anyway to determine if it is indeed a stroker short of taking it appart? Thanks Cameron

Interesting since mine is also a 240. I checked and the reaction disk is in place. I'm wonder if the combination of booster and master is a miss-match of different years that are not quite compatible? Maybe I should try to screw that plunger out even more as I've never touched it? Thanks Cameron PS - sorry for the HUGE picture

I've also used just a regular abrasive cutting blade in my Delta mitre saw. Same thing - it doesn't really have the torque to like it much and the plastic insert melts, paint burns off, & gets real dirty ...... think twice if you want to use it for wood again. I just bought a Dewalt metal chop saw and all I can say is First thing I noticed is there's no safety button or anything. First time I squeezed the trigger it blew the circuit breaker. This thing is a serious piece. Now cant wait to get the welder and start the frame mods.... PS: Reason I got it was is was on sale plus included a mail in rebate for a FREE 4 1/2" Dewalt angle grinder. Cameron

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I couldn't find it discussed while searching. I haven't seen anyone use the stock LS1 radiator and am wondering if it will fit a Z. I'm getting a complete Z28 soon and could save $$ by using it's radiator in the Z uness it just wont fit. Thanks Cameron

I was actually saying that jokingly but I definitely would be willing to sell it as a complete roller minus drivetrain and maybe fuel system (I'm thinking about using the Z28 tank in the Z but haven't decided yet). I'ld take $2500 for it but if you are serious shoot me a PM or e-mail. I'm in Decatur, Il which is right at a 3 hour drive from Indy. Thanks Cameron

I have the classic light pedal at the top with engine running issue. Trying to look into see if I have the reaction disk problem, but when I took the master off it looks like this. As you can see there is a serated locking ring the keeps the seal in place. Without destroying this ring I'm not sure how to take this out? You can pull the rod out somewhat but obviously not all the way since the seal and lock ring are in the way. I'm thinking the reaction disk is in place because in order to get the rod back in place you have to line it up exactly with some sort of pilot on the other end. I'm thinking this pilot hole is the reaction disk so it's in place - is that correct? PS - this is a reman booster from Napa I bought a couple years ago. Thanks Cameron

You could always buy the roller off me once I take out the drivetrain ..... that way it wouldn't get totally parted out ..... Cameron

15X10 w/ 5" backspace Diamonds. As you can see they go all the way to the edge and even then some. They dont rub the flairs but the Hoosier slicks diameter is small too. I know some have gone 5.5" BS but not sure how as there doesn't seem to be 1/2" clearance left. This is with coilovers. Not sure how much the Subtle Flairs add but i think 12" would be pushing it if they are only 1.5". Cameron

Anyone ever corner weighted their LS1 powered Z with the John's mounts? I wondering how good the engine placement is in terms of weight distribution. Their site says they gained 30 lbs total and all on the back end but wondering what others have seen - especially side to side. I asked John if the engine is offset to the right and he said it is but had no idea how much. On a slightly different note I have a design question with these mounts. Is there a reason they need to sandwhich between the crossmember and the frame? I really dont like this aspect and think it would be better to cut off the wings that go under the framerail and just weld them directly to the motor mount towers? Any thoughts on this? Thanks Cameron

Only way I'll feel bad is if I can't get enough from the parts sales to recover my investment but I'm not worried. Cameron

Anyone?

I'm in central Illinios - not sure if there are any clubs but I do know someone who runs in the American Iron road race series .... maybe he'll know someone whos looking for a replacement body panel. Sorry here's pics: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170007550214&ssPageName=ADME:B:BOCOR:MOT:1 Auction actually ended while we were going back and forth with offers since it was a 'buy it now' or 'best offer' deal. We ended up coming to an agreement after the auction ended which is why it says that there was no winner. We weren't trying to skirt the system just timing wise it came out that way. Now I have to figure out the best way to pay since it's outside e-bay. Anyone know if paypal or others will hold payment for you like an escrow so that he knows the money is there but wont get it until the car ships? Hope to get it shipped early next week and have it within two weeks. I plan on autocrossing it in EMod (actually have to look ... I think it's EMod?)but just locally nothing National or anything. Thinking of running John's mounts but a little concerned it places the engine too far forward for best weight distribution and I dont like that it sandwhiches between the frame rails and the crossmember. Other big question is the best way to convert my carburated 240 gas tank to an EFI one. Thanks Cameron

Just submitted the dowmpayment. It's a 2002 Z28 LS1/T56 w/ 41,000 miles. Complete but with body damage basically from the rear tires back and the passenger door. Otherwise in really nice shape. Now I've just got to arrange shipping to get it here (Cali to Illinois). Got it for $6150 excluding shipping which seemed fair considering LS1/T56 dropouts seem to be going for about $4,800. I figure as long as I can part it out for over about a grand it'll break even with piecing it together. Anything over that'll be gravy. Unfortunately it's a stripped no option model but still should still have a lot of parts. I should also be able to save in terms of fuel pump, radiator, etc that would have to have been bought anyway. Wife's not terribly happy there'll be a 'piece of crap' in the backyard for a while but oh well. Anyone have suggestions how to part out the large pieces other than e-bay (kind if hard to ship a hood or windshield for example) would be much appreciated. Now I've got to also sell off the L6 stuff (tripple mikuni's, Fidanza flywheel, turbo motor parts, etc). I'm hoping to net out <$5,000 for the entire swap. Woohoo Cameron

Anyone?

Very useful thread as I dont drive mine except to and from the track because of the lingering fuel smell when I park it in the garage ... underneath the bedrooms. Same problem as the rest of you except mine seems to be seeping through the non-braided lines. Anyway I'm now wondering if I replace the lines (again) but this time with some that are fuel vapor proof how to keep the vent line from smelling? Currently the tank is sealed (previous owner set-up) so on hot days it actually builds pressure .... enough to blow the cap off as your unscrew it ... and if the tank is full some fuel as well. Anyway, I bought a roll-over valve so I could open one of the vapor lines and let the tank breath (stock 240z gas and vapor tanks) but I'm thinking if I do that it will smell of gas from the open vent. I dont see anyway around it short of installing some sort of charcoal canister. How are any of you dealing with tank venting and not having fuel smell from it? Thanks Cameron

Trying to get some green stuff shoes for my '72 240 from MSA (just because they were the only source I could find on the net) but they say they are only for 76-78. Anyone know if these will work on my '72 and if so who sells them? Thanks Cameron

I'm thinking the whole system here. Trying to tie the front engine subframe (that's what I meant to say when I said T/C bucket) to the rockers, re-inforcing the rockers, then tying the rocker to the back ... if needed ... haven't started thinking about the back end yet ... Cameron

After crawling around under the car for the last week I definitely thing the second pic is a good idea - connecting the rocker to the T/C bucket. Otherwise there really isn't anything connecting the rockers to anything but the sheetmetal firewall. (EDIT: is that a tube I see connecting the floor to the rocker from underneath?) Now for another idea. What if you were to take a flat or flanged plate and weld it at about a 45 degree angle from about mid way up the rocker to the floor? That way you could cut around the seat mount and even the dead pedal in front but still box in the rocker. Could add some stiffness and side impact (but maybe too low to be effective for side impact with anything but a go-kart or curb?) with little weight. Also I realize that the tranny tunnel is pretty flimsy but what about adding a tube from the rocker to the tunnel just in front of the seat for side impact protection. There is a little bit there factory with the seat mount but I want to lower the seat similar to what Jon and others have done for more head room so this would add some of that back in ... just directly in front of the seat instead of under it. Cameron