heavy85

Sorry, should have been more specific as these are road racing slicks being used for autox so the burnout method will not work too well ... especially on the fronts. Thanks anyway Cameron

It's been a big pain so far but it's finally working and I've got to say it's pretty slick. I've got the Innovative Motorsports (or something like that) LC1 (or was it LM1 ...) with the gauge in the dash. My A/F ratio's are ~14.0 at idle, mid 13's cruising down the interstate, and about 10.0 at WOT. Now I know why it stinks so bad at WOT! This is with my L28 w/ tripple 44 Mikuni's and I'm looking for some advise on where to go from here. Any takers? One other thing is it bucks once if you punch it from part throttle and it stumbled coming out of one corner pretty pad at the autocross yesterday but other than that it runs pretty good. Well the idle is pretty random as it always jumps all over the place. Last thing is yes fuel pressure is set at ~3 PSI, I have a heat shield and insulators, yes it is still deadheaded (but I'm working on that), and the carbs have all been fully rebuilt and set per the manual. Jets are 200 air, 150 fuel, 57.5 idle, 40 accel pump. Thanks for any help. Cameron PS - it may be running a little retarded because when I set the timing (38 degrees total) there where three marks showing on the pulley so I picked the conservative one ... another thing to figure out.

So now that I have some Hoosier slicks (and am really glad I did - huge fun factor) can anyone give some insight on the best way to dial in the air pressure? I started off at 19-20 PSI and haven't really tried anything different - what should I be looking for? Thanks Cameron

You askin me?

Thanks for the replies. Anyone else? Cameron

Woohoo - first race of the season down. The tire are phenominal and fit just barely w/ the ZG's. Looks awesome and gripped like nothing (short of the go-karts I used to race) I've ever driven before. Overall I placed 2nd fastest. First was a Z06 who usually gets FTD, he got 47.7, I got 48.6, rest of the field was 50+ so I'm very happy with the first trip out. There were about 60 drivers mostly in stock or the 'S' classes (SM, STS, STX, S....) - a lot of WRX, SRT-4, EVO type of stuff with no other prepared and no mods. Hopefully by the end of the season I'll beat the Vette. I know the car has it in it now if I could just keep up with my car - it's now way faster than I am. I'll say these tires are HUGE and I had to take out the passenger seat and remove the rear strut bar to fit them all in but boy is it worth it ... the only fast part of the course was the slalom and I was WOT by the third of five cones and on the rev limiter in second by the end. Best part of all was a bunch of comments how I clipped the same cone at the end of the slalom every run but never knocked it out of the box. As a side note it's amazing the comments you get in a Z - easily the most popular car out there. I'll get pics next race and post them. Needless to say I'm a little excited now if I could just get some brakes and faster steering under her .... and that stupid raw gas smell issue ... oh yeah and learn how to drive this fast! Cameron

All those vapor lines were replaced and there is no visible wet spots even after hard driving ... plus I dont have a mechanical fuel pump. It's definitely coming from around the filler neck / vapor tank area. Any other ideas? Thanks Cameron

Sound is definitely coming from the rear end. It seems like the gears are dithering when they have very little load on them. Under load or turning everything is perfect just in gear with basically no load it makes this sound. Weird thing is originally I had the 3.9 with no issues, swapped to 3.7 LSD then had a very annoying constant whine but no other issues then swapped the LSD into the 3.9 and now have this new rattling issue? I just put it back together and didn't notice anything unusual so I'm not even sure what to look for if I do open it up? Thanks Cameron

I tried this on the fuel system but no takers so I'll try it here. So I've given up on ever solving the raw fuel smell coming out of the Mikuni's and am moving on to the other source - the arse end. About a year ago I noticed that with 1/2 tank or better I'ld get an overwhelming raw fuel smell. Found the vent lines were bad and replaced them all. Then found the seal under the cap was not sealing so I RTV'ed it and all seemed well. Now, however, what I get is a constant faint ... but annoying ... smell coming from around the filler neck area. It stinks up the garage like there is an open gas can or something and since the garage is below our bedrooms the smell drifts into the house as well. It also stinks up the interior if left with the windows up. There are no visible external leaks and the tank does hold pressure. The fuel system is currently sealed (I'm working on that) and I remove the cap every once in a while to vent it. If it's heated up it will have quite a bit of pressure behind it so I dont think the tank is leaking air but ....... where could this stupid smell be coming from if the entire system is well sealed? I dont want to spend $100 for a filler neck if that wont fix the problem and the fact that it holds pressure and has no external leaks leads me to believe it's OK but on the other hand the smell has to come from somewhere. I would gladly spend the money if I knew it would fix it. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this? Thanks Cameron

OK so before I get flamed let me state that I have read a lot of the posts/sticky/FAQ on the various brake options so I know what's out there and how they work. Over the winter I went through my brake system and rebuild the master, calipers, and wheels cyliners (NOTE to those who think their stock system sucks ... my calipers and wheel cylinders were rusty and gummed up inside .... not even sure they were all moving .... $40 worth of rebuild kits later and they work a lot better) but the pads/shoes/rotors/drum were all virtually new so I left them. Rebuilding everything made a big difference and now it stops reasonably well but ... it's not the throw you into the belts kind of experience. The car is a driver / autox / maybe occasional track day (but not very often) and I want that agressive throw you in the belts feel and performance. So ... from those who have been there before which way do you recommend? My goals are 1) Performance 2) Weight 3) Not overly expensive. I'm thinking of: A - Just getting performance pads and shoes B - Adding performance pads up front and 240SX rear disks C - 4X4 vented front and 240SX rear disks D - Stage 2 Outlaw front (http://www.outlawbrakes.com/brakes.html) w/ 240 SX rear E - ??? Thanks Cameron

So I've given up on ever solving the raw fuel smell coming out of the Mikuni's and am moving on to the other source - the arse end. About a year ago I noticed that under quick movements with 1/2 tank or better that I'ld get an overwhelming raw fuel smell. Found the vent lines were bad and replaced them all. Then still happened and found the seal under the cap was not sealing so I RTV'ed it and it sealed. Now what I get is a constant faint ... but annoying ... smell coming from around the filler neck area. There are no visible external leaks and the tank does hold pressure as it is currently sealed and as it gets hot I remove the cap every once in a while to vent it and if it's heated up will have quite a bit of pressure behind it so I dont think the tank is leaking air but ....... where the hell could this stupid smell be coming from if the entire system is well sealed ... and before you ask yes this smell is still there even if there is no pressure built up in the tank? I dont want to spend $100 for a filler neck if that wont fix the problem and the fact that it hold pressure and has no external leaks leads me to believe it's OK but on the other hand the smell has to come from somewhere and I would gladly spend the money if I knew it would fix it. Thanks Cameron

Over the winter I swapped my LSD into from the old 3.7 into a 3.9 diff. This helped get more RPM in autox but also fixed the really annoying whine with the old diff. Only a new issue has popped up. Under load everything is fine, under engine braking everything is fine, but in the middle basically coasting with very little load on the rear end there is a very hideous crunch, rattle, marbles ratting around sound coming from the rear end. It's got Redline oil for LSD. Oh yeah and it seems to go away with the clutch pushed in. Any ideas? Thanks Cameron

I saw a 50's era SuperAmerica model Ferrari with split bumpers similar to that. Maybe worth looking up to see how them implemented it. Cameron

Seems to me if you mounted each end like this then the bar can't twist can it? Normally the bar twists about it's centerline but with the heim joint sticking out away from the centerline they are severly impairing the bar being able to twist - no? Cameron

I just ordered some Diamond Wheels and am wondering for autox use if you really even need to balance them since the speeds are low. Anyone like to comment from their experience? Thanks Cameron

By just holding them up (no wheels yet) I'm actually a little scared that they will rub the ZG flares so yes you DEFINITELY need flares to run these. I'll make sure to report the fit and wear. Cameron

Just got them in today - ended up with Hoosier FA 22.5x9.5-15 in R35 compound. Ordered the matching 15x10 diamond wheels two days ago. All I can say is - they are HUGE .... not sure how I am going to transport them to the track. At least will have to remove the passenger seat but even then it will be close. PS: I would recommend jbracing for used tires, they range from ~$30 per tire for half tread up to $75 for full tread. Ended getting four full tread (one heat cycle with nominal wear) shipped for under $350 and I got them within two days of order - thats about $100 per tire off retail per tire with full tread depth still left! I'll have to post pics when I get the wheels and get them installed. Thanks for everyone's help Cameron

My SVT Focus daily driver has a Getrag 6 speed so add Ford to the list. Hate the way it shifts by the way. Cameron

The rear sort of reminds me of my old Opel GT with the four round lights and non-opening hatch. Believe it or not that was factory and I didn't even realize the hatch didn't open until after I bought it - not that it mattered. Cameron

John - what rotors were you using with these and do you have any details on the adapters required to mount these calipers and rotors? Thanks Cameron

For $$ reasons I'm starting to rethink my choice. I've googled and Ebay'ed but not found anything. Where can I get these cheap? Considering saving for ls1 instead ..... but still need some sticky tires. Thanks Cameron

I got some generic 5/8" ones (I think may want to measure as they had two sizes) off the rack at Advance Auto. They were like $4 for a pair. My tie rods were tight just the boot was gone. Cameron

For what it's worth I used to work with a guy who was into boating and he quoted an article in a boating magazine that tested a bunch of different ways to prevent corrosion. WD-40 was the winner. OK well it's third/forth hand info but with a little research I'm sure this could be verified. Cameron

Glad to see someone saved it. Those wheels remind me of the General Lee. Cameron Edit: ON3GO beat me to it while I was typing.

Looks way too decent to crush. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Snazzy-White-1973-Datsun-240z-Parts-Project-Car_W0QQitemZ8037361020QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem