Workinprogress

I found an easier way. Heat. I used a heat gun and a puller. Just put a good amount of pressure on the stud (in the correct direction) heat the surrounding metal to expand, and POP, out it comes, easy no sweat. No cursing or mangled threads either. This worked on old crusty cars as well as newer (presumably easier ones) Grant

Lay off the brake cleaner, that stuff is HARD on plastics. Use electrical cleaner, it wont eat away plastic or etch it. Next, get an ohm meter and go thru the wiring diagram and check all of your switches out, they may need cleaned or rebuilt. Good luck.

Thanks, dot.

Here's specifically what I'm looking for: Which year/model of Subaru is the donor car? Which tie rod ends to use? Any clearance issues? (looks like crank pulley is it as of now) Thanks

Could I con anybody into sending me a copy of the 260 z electrical drawing? Thanks, Grant wydryd99@comcast.net

There seemed to be a question as to which year's fit and which tie rods ends to use. I was wanting to know if these issues had been resolved and if it was compatable with the LS1 conversion (looks like its not, but willing to learn) Thanks,

Did we ever get a final parts list, including the saddle?

Ls1z, I dont know if you've tried it or not, but there are specific ways to hold your hand on the shifter to ensure proper shifting, I know it sounds silly, but it does work. (I'm a former owner of a 2002 Camaro SS w/ LS1 T56 and 150 hp of nitrous to boot!!) There was a web write up on this, maybe some of the other guys can chime in if I get it wrong. 1-2 Shift. Hold your hand cupped around to the right side of the shifter with thumb over the top, pull towards your right hip to shift. 2-3 Shift. Roll your hand over the top of the shifter with the knob resting in your palm with fingers over the top of the shifter. Push straight out with your arm to shift. 3-4 Shift. Roll your hand the rest of the way over with the thumb pointing down and fingers around the left side of the shifter. Pull back to shift, this will prevent a 3-2 downshift. You should be at the end of the 1/4 by now and not have to worry about 5th. Good luck, I hope the write up was right. Grant

Here's an update, The left side front suspension appears to be straight, I dissasembled it last night and checked it out. The left LCA is significantly different than that bent up one I posted the pic of. Wow!! All the ball joints and tie rod ends are shot, but there appears to be an almost brand new frame to LCA bolt on the left side, right one was old and corroded, like most other things on this car. Makes me a little wary. Thanks,

Thanks for the suggestions, sounds good to me. This "simple" R&R is snowballing. If I didnt have this bad habit it would be drinking or smoking or chasing skirts. lol

Resurrecting this old thread, anybody have any better updates??? And yes I have used the search function.

I'm not sure of anything in regards to this car. I know that the left upper frame is pushed in a bit and that fender was replaced, plus the right door was replaced (at least the skin). Also there was about 10lbs of bondo in the left rear quarter panel, I have it out, but it must be cut out and replaced, the metal is as thin as aluminum foil and about as wavy back there. I think this car was worked on by a bunch of morons. After the accident that caused the left rear to crunch, they beat the panel out a bit, then bondo'd over the paint, dirt and everything back there. After this bit of mechanical genius, they painted the whole car. Looks like 199 special, painted over dirt, rust, tar, everything. I found a nail that was used as a cotter pin. The left wheel bearings were scorched and looked like they had varnish on them. Right side had been re-packed but they didnt remove the old grease first, just added new. There are no Zerk fittings anywhere, just open holes.... it goes on and on

Would it be worth my time to convert the LCA to adjustable? They are toast, so what's the loss? Well, off to bed. This sure has been a disappointing day, and to think, I thought I was getting somewere with this car...

Damn, that's what I thought. Well, here's the pictures. Does the T/C look tweaked also? Here's my progress on the rest of the wheelwell.

Ok, here goes, I'm disassembling the front suspension to rebuild/replace anything that looks tweeked or worn out. First off was the right side, the sway bar link was bent, no biggie. Then after I got the whole strut assembly and lower control arm out and was degreasing/scrubbing it, I realized that the lca has a slight rearward bend and twist to it. Is this right or did my z have a collision in a former life? I'll post pics as soon as I can find my camera.

Can you say annealing? Wouldnt this be very bad to do to the ENTIRE car? I'd rather go with the heat gun or oven cleaner route.

Anybody have any luck replacing the gasket type rubber material that goes at the top of the fenders? I'm looking for some of that as well.

Check out ls1tech.com and ls1.com, preferably the first one, they have TONS of info on these. Even a guided walk thru with all tools and pieces parts that you need. Good pics also. Grant

As a former owner of an LS1 powered car (camaro) I can help a bit. A lot of people are using the "fernco mod", ie... Going to Home Depot and buying a flexible rubber sewer pipe connection to join the throttle body to the maf. I know that these were straight, however I'm sure that if you look around at Home Depot or wherever, you'll be able to find something that works. Its really inexpensive if you go there, (3 bucks or so) vs 50 or so for a name brand piece.

Thanks, I've already got the procedure for the switches down, I've had to rebuild them both from JY parts.

After doing a search on " door lock, and door lock removal" and having no luck. I'm going to ask. how do we remove these, it sounds like a good idea to get everything re-keyed for the same one (I need 2 keys to turn the ignition, one to unlock then another to turn) None of the external locks work either. I'm considering a hammer, but then that would lead to more bodywork....

I've been researching welders for some time now. Here's my .02. Miller is very good quality. Hobart is manufactured by miller but doesnt have the infinite adjustments like blue does. Lincoln is very good also, but on the 135 model, the drive gears are thermoplastic, which the dealer said he see's shattered sometimes, on Miller, they're aluminum. I think I'm going with Miller.

Wow, after seeing that, I feel much better about my 260...

Just a note to everybody who thinks this is going the wrong way. I didnt write my response to irritate people, just remind the readers of the origional question. Any updates by the way?

I am having the same problem with the classified section, any help or just discussion on how we ask for it?