Workinprogress

Welcome to Hybridz, your fan answer can be had with a search.

Paul, yes it is quite a bummer. I expected there to be trip ups in this rebuild, but I wasnt prepared for this large of a hurdle. I'll look into a decent short block but may take the exitsting one to the machine shop anyways. They will clean it and magnaflux it for 75 bucks I think (may have neen 65), that should answer the question of a cracked block then and there. If what you say is true about it needing at least to be bored out, that means new pistons anyway, so I was set on spending at least that much in addition to the bearings/gaskets/etc... I am keeping my eye out for air horns that will fit under the filters, there are different lenght ones. The guy up here in Bremerton (Iskone) runs triples w/horns and filters very similar to the ones you sold me, no problems with restricted air flow for him.

Ok, here's the block deck surface by each cylinder, the block side of the gasket and head side. Also, I checked one each of the rod and main bearings, they both have a serial number it looks like and the letters "STD" which I assume means standard size for that engine. Next is #1 main cap and bearing next to each other, it looks like you were right Paul, there's a bit of grit or something in the backside of the shell and a mark on the cap corresponding to it. Next to last is a representative of the rod bearings, looks worse off than the mains. Last of all is the inside skirt of one of the pistons, it says AMPCO 7. What is ampco? Aftermarket pistons? I looked and cant find a number or anything else to indicate if they are overbored or not. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=590 You'll have to sort by name and ascending, I cant get them to save in the right freakin order. Thanks, Grant

This engine did have a blown head gasket and sat for awhile before I came across it. Once it got to my place it sat for another 4 months untouched. I did save the head gasket so that will give me a bit more info. The center two cylinders were the worst as far as crud on the pistons and bore appearance. On one in particular, it looks like rust ran down the inside of the bore and etched it or something. I can feel it with my finger easily. None of these cylinders had much of a detectable ridge to them at the top, other than carbon debris. The oil looked like mud when it came out though, and when I broke the main caps free, there was a smell of burnt oil in the air. The PO didnt have ANY anti freeze in the car at all, just pure water, and rusty too. On a side note, the local import yard has a few ZX short blocks around, they said they would let me get one for $150. I'll clean out the bores more and the crank to get some better pictures. The crank main and rod journals feel smooth to me, I run my fingernail across them and feel nothing at all. The rebuild book says run a penny across and if it leaves a copper trail, its too rough. Thanks for the info Braap. Grant

Well, the title says it all. I was replacing the head and switching to triple webers, so I took the bottom end of my L28 apart just to make sure. I'm glad I did. I'm hoping to just require a honing, but will settle for boring it out and getting slightly larger pistons (didnt want to have to buy them, though...) Here's the damage: http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=589 Does anyone in the Bremerton, Wa area have an L28 short block I can grab? Thanks, Grant

What happened in New Orleans is a terrible tale of human tragedy. It is also a tale of mankinds futile attempts at taming nature. NO is built on soft sediment, it is continously sinking as are all delta systems, the real reason NO is so far beneath water now is our fault, we didnt let the natural floods replentish the topsoil like would have naturally happened. Now on to my real point. Is it wrong for me to think about the possibility of inexpensive donor car parts and the like? BTW, I have donated money to the cause.

Yeah, I've been scouring the boards and ebay. Looks like 350 is the best I can get for a remanufactured complete N42 head, no porting or aftermarket cam though....

Some of you may remember my $300 280z. Well, it had a blown head gasket when I purchased it and it sat in my garage forever. I pulled the head last night. Here's the damage I see. Scored cam lobes, carbonized oil all over the head, possible head gasket damage between #3 and #4 cylinders, 2 broken (previous to me) exhaust manifold studs. Should I skip working on this head and find a replacement? Or would it suffice to check the deck surface for being flat and having the cam replaced? I uploaded all the pics to my album. Thanks, Grant

I have HEARD, that after switching to synthetic after using regular dino oil on an older car, you may develop gasket leaks. This was supposedly due to the synthetic oil not working well with some older gasket materials and allowing the old gaskets to shrink a bit and start to leak. Once again, this is what I've heard from older mechanics, but not seen first hand.

Now thats a word I havent heard in about 15 years!! Carnot cycles! I hated doing those in school. took me forever to figure them out, then click!, then it takes 5 minutes to complete one. (nuclear power school)

Isk, Sorry to hear about your misfortune, I may have some spare fenders and the like sitting around if you're interested. Now that I have two projects in the garage, spare parts are a-plenty. PM me if you're up for it. Good luck either way. Grant

Also... On 2001 and up LS1's they put on the LS6 intake manifold. On my 2002 Camaro, with a new cold air intake and 4k miles, I got 330 RWHP. I installed an LS6 cam and did home reprogramming and ended up with exactly 350 RWHP. Not bad for a cheap oem cam. Grant

Or these guys. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex

Also, check out this web site: http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3 It's miller motorsports website, yes it is owned by Miller, but if you ask a straightforward question like you have here, you'll get very good responses. Grant

Damn, I heard about this concert on The Buzz, but BJ Shea was making fun of Jerry, I guess he was off by a bit.

Much more money than brains...

I was under the impression that the calipers got HOT, but it looks like they dont get as bad as I thought. Must be smoking too much crack. lol (kidding)

Any updates on this?

It came with a matching spare (with a blown out tire though, lol)

Thanks for the replies, now I just have to keep from screwing this one up. This makes up in small part for the rust buckets I've bought the last two times. Ez-E, I feel your pain. I've been so frustrated on not being able to find a decent car for awhile, then this one drops in my lap. (did I forget to mention that this car was transported 60 miles and delivered by the previous owner free of charge!!)

Both sides look like the one above. I've taken about 60 pictures of it now, (of various underbody areas etc...) The frame rails are untouched and still has the undercoating on them. There are two body drain plugs out on the passenger side just behind the seat, but those and a very recent (probably from the guy getting it here) scrape on the undercoating on that side is it as far as the body goes. It does look like there's a bit of rust on the sway bars, crossmembers etc... Those look like they were washed in salt. The inner fenders look real nice and inside the rear quarters looks brand new.

Remember, the LS1 is already a high compression engine, guys have done turbos and such, but just dont go crazy with the CR.

If you search around a bit you'll find a few threads about this. There's a member here who has a really good write up on his website. (I got bashed on searching also when I first started posting, and still do from time to time!!) Welcome to Hybridz!

I just got my most recent purchase delivered today. Its a 75 280Z, it has a blown head gasket and is a previous theft recovery. There's a bit of rust under the battery, which I will kill with some elbow grease and POR 15 this weekend. The body is very straight and all doors and hatches/hoods close well and panel gaps are equal all around. I'll see about uploading some pics.

At certian speeds and throttle positions it locks out 2nd and makes you shift to 4th when you pull back on the shifter. It was to improve on gas mileage. Two ways to disable it. Get into the throttle more, or purchase a resistor from radio shack and trick the computer into thinking it doesnt need to engage the solonoid. Search the transmission forum at ls1tech.com (skip shift resistor mod) Grant