Workinprogress

I bought a 26 gal compressor from the local Lowe's for 299. It came with an impact wrench, nailer, die grinder, air chisel, (cheap) spray gun and various fittings and hose. I am finding out the hard way that I should have went bigger. The grinder will run for 30 seconds before the compressor kicks on, then I have to moderate its use or I cant strip anything with it. I bought this size because I needed 120v instead of 220. That's the only good thing about this one, besides being portable. Go as big as you can afford.

I am interested in the 8.8 IRS as well, this sounds like a very good alternative to pricey and rare r200 and up parts. Seems like it would be very strong, have disk brakes and have good geometry for auto x.

Here's a good thread on the 8.8 with 4 link. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98734&highlight=8.8 I think with auto-x you should stick with the irs and not go with the 4 link, it was my understanding that 4 links are best for drags but were the second or third choice for cornering handling due to binding and other problems with the geometry.

Really? That sucks, but good advice on the 9" outers, should be easy since it will be cut up anyway.

Thanks for all of the replies and good discussion. The whole reason I was thinking about the late year 10bolt is I can get one hub to hub real inexpensive. However, I am leaning towards the 8.8. I thought I saw a c-clip eliminator kit somewhere on the 'net. 8.8's look real beefy. On another note, anyone have any publications or good info on 4 link setups for the z? Mike Kz, that setup is nice Thanks for the help.

Magnum Rockwilder, I simply asked for some info. I never stated the 10 bolt was the best diff in the world, I asked a question. If I wanted someone to look down their nose at me about my questions, I'll go to a corvette forum. Also, as you can see from my reply, I'm open to other differentials, I was JUST ASKING A QUESTION.

I think you should keep reading. There are F-bodies in the 10's on the 10 bolt, so that's pretty good junk. That's very good info about the 8.8 also, which year's are good and what is important to look for in them? ie gear ratio's, lsd, disk brakes obviously etc...

I've been semi-active on this website for a few months now and I've got a question. I have used the search function and didnt get any answers. so here goes. Has anybody used a narrowed late model f-body 10 bolt rear end in their hybrid? I owned an 02 Camaro SS and that rear did just fine, some people had problems but that was due to the weight of the car and engine torque, with a Z, the weight wouldnt be an issue. The reason I'm asking this is, it seems like a 9" is overkill and the IRS that's in our Z's needs $$ to have an LSD installed and converted for the axels and everything. Why couldnt someone buy a used good condition 10 bolt, hub to hub (including disk brakes,) have it narrowed and install it using a 4 link into a Z? In my eyes it would be ideal: Common bolt pattern for modern wide wheels, disk brakes, strong, adjustability from 4 link, and interchangability of LSD or spools. Any comments or am I off on a tangent here?

I have two quick questions, which bolt pattern are you going with on that 8.8? Which model year of mustang did you pull that one from? Thanks,

Ok, there's a bit of mis-information going on here. LS1/6 motors built for F-bodies have cable throttles LS1/6 motors built for Y-bodies are throttle by wire. All LS2 and LS7 motors will be throttle by wire. There will be no provision for cable actuation on these. BTW, I have that How to Hotrod LS1/6 engine book. Goto LS1.com, LS2.com or LS1tech.com for info that is on par with this site but for the LS family of engines. Former owner of a 2002 Camaro SS

The engine in the GTO is an LS1. Next year it is supposed to be an LS2 (much the same as an ls1 but 3 valves per cylinder and different programming, etc...)

All 02 Camaro's and Trans Am's had the ls6 intake. I think about midway thru the MY01 they started. It is true about the ls6 blocks being used on some 02 TA's and Camaro's, they are made of different alloy and are supposed to have better breathing between cylinders. No HP difference, but maybe longevity benefit.

Thanks guys, I'll give it a try tomorrow (raining right now) Any advice on the overheating engine?

Thanks for the replies. The tap broke off exactly flush in the removable housing, so the easy out is basically screwed until I can get a better quality bit to get it out. As far as the head goes, there's a bit to get ahold of, so I was wondering about heat cycling the bolt to relieve some stress on it. Last but not least, any clues on the overheating issue?? Any way I can check the water pump to see if its actually working? Any ideas on the radiator? Maybe its blocked? I'd think if there was a blockage, then a hose would have blown due to the pressure buildup from the pump. Thanks in advance...

Just like the subject line says. I took off the thermostat housing to check it out, guess what, no thermostat. To make my day even better, one of the bolts sheared off after putting about 10 lbs of torque to it. Then, I used an easy out to get the existing bolt stub out, but that sheared off flush in the housing body. So now I'm really having a bad day. So the housing itself has to come off the head, but guess what? one of those bolts is corroded thru and breaks also. After that, I quit for the day. How can I get the bolt out of the head without having it go flush. (I have about an inch to grip, but it's pretty rusty) Next, how do I get that stupid easy out from the OTHER sheared bolt? Anyone in the Seattle area have an extra housing? Thanks, Grant

Pathogen, I have to say that the 260Z rear end size must be updated to reflect that a 2+2 has a R200 rear end. Thanks,

I've had several recent GM products. I currently use Autotap and EFI Live, and have used the Predator recently also. EFI live is good but the changes are only in effect while the car is running that time, it resets after the car is shut down. Of course the best would be a Tech-2, but not many of us have the cash for that.

I'm looking at buying a mig welder also. Here's what I've learned so far: Miller appears to be the best quality. Lincoln has roughly the same welders but about 30 bucks cheaper. However, lincoln's wire feed hardware is thermoplastic vice cast aluminum on the Miller. Hobart is made by the parent company of Miller. Miller and Lincoln both have infinite adjustments available in their 135 models, (120 v). The first step on the 240 volt welders have 7 taps instead of infinite.

Thats exactly what I did last evening. I need to get a better picture for the profile. I think it may make the blind spot huge also. Another idea is to change the shape of that window, maybe arc it with the roofline and extend the lower edge towards the trunk a bit. I photochopped a set of mustang vents onto the car, it doesnt look too bad, but I'm not sure about a good profile shot. I'll send you the before and after if you like. (beware, I'm not good at photo editing and the car is primered!!) Thanks, Grant

I have a 260z 2+2. I hate the rear quarter windows, I'm kind of thinking about filling in the windows and making them look similar to the 65 or so mustang fastback. Has anyone tried this yet? Any other suggestions on beautifying this ugly part of the 2+2??? Thanks,

I did do a search, but I'm trying to do a bit of homework before doing anything to the car. (except to stop rust) I'm researching the engine/tranny combo, front and rear suspension setups, differential, interior and exterior mods, etc... I research everything exhaustivly before cutting anything on any of my cars. With that said, I know nothing about the z cars, but I do have a good amount of car smarts and have modified most every car I've driven. My family tends to call my cars works of art after they're done. (And I'm not talking modern art!!) jmortensen, I would like to check out your car and pick your brain sometime if you're willing. Thanks,

This is the drivetrain forum isnt it, I'm asking if a certian diff will fit. I did a search and came up with no info about this particular year.

Subject line says it all. I'm swapping in an LS1 w/T-56 Would this be strong enough?

Which differentials will fit under our cars? I see some people are putting in rears from 240zx's 300zx's etc... What would be adequate for 400 RWHP?? Thanks,

Hi, I'm brand new on this board. I've had a 99 GTP, 2002 Camaro SS and now I bought a 74 260Z with the intention of swapping an LS1 into it. My questions start with the front suspension. Does anyone sell aftermarket suspensions? I've looked at the sponsors and they sell some of the components, but not the whole front or rear. Will the stock fronts be ok after a rebuild? Any help would be great. Also, what is the deal with rear differentials? I was thinking of swapping in a solid rear, but maybe not.