Mikelly

Daniel is right. The foam will slow the flow/ slosh effect, but not stop it. Mike

Here's something to chew on. The traditional sbc weighs about 40# heavier than the Datsun L6 Motor, IF the SBC has aluminum heads, intake and water pump. An LS1 motor weighs 90, that is N-I-N-T-Y pounds less than the traditional SBC. The LS1 sits pretty low in the engine bay and it sits further back since it doesn't have a distributor to contend with sitting against the firewall. I don't know where you're getting the 200# figure for your added weight. You'll pick up about 20# on the flywheel/ clutch assembly, and you'll pick up about 50# from the T56 tranny. But you're starting out with a motor that is about 50# lighter than the L6. Simply put, a well sorted install of an LS1 BONE stock will get you somewhere in the area of 300-320HP with no mods or tuning. That's WHEEL HP, And torque will be higher, 330-360 range. Personally, there's only two other motors I'd swap into a Zcar right now, and they are WAY down the list below the LSX based Chevy motor. And for the record, I'm concerned ONLY with road race/ track day applications, so turning, stopping and going fast around corners are priority#1 with me. I can't help but think you'd be far ahead of the game with an LS1 tucked into the engine bay, based on the info above. Mark Icard (Mark on this board) was running an LT1 in his Yellow 240Z. He is now building a full track car and is installing an LS1/T56 combo in it. He should have it on the track by late spring. I'm sure a full report will follow. Mike

So what did that one piece cost? that is the missing part of my Q45 puzzle. Otherwise I have everything else in house, except for the custom carrier I'm building of course. Mike

Uh, I think it just boils down to what you want to do. Either car will handle well, but I think a well sorted Miata would be a HOOT. I also think that if you really wanted to do it up right, a Zcar with all the bells and whistles (Suspension/ brakes/ Chassis) would make one heck of a decent car. Also depends on wanting a vert or coupe! To many cars, to little time! Mike

My cam is the Thunder Racing 224/224 114LSA cam. I'm thinking about swapping to the FAST intake and 90mm Tbody to see if I can get the potential out of the heads without jumping up to a larger cam, although I'm not above that one either. There was rumor that a TT Vette was coming to this shindig yesterday. I really want to get a ride in one of those! Mike

Went to Durham, NC yesterday for a corvetteforum get together and we got my car and my little brothers 2002 Camaro SS on the rollers. My car has picked up some HP since I swapped the borla mufflers and Custom pipes for a bassani Xpipe and Z06 mufflers, swapping to MSD plug wires and the Exedy Hyper Single clutch kit. After adjusting the fuel map, I laid down 386/ 382 to the wheels and I'm still knocking down 27.5MPG. However, what truly impressed me was my little brothers 02. He has a magnaflow catback and a K&N filter and laid down 320HP 329#ft. torque. He then activated his 75wetshot of nitrous and the power jumped to 368/411. For those interested in the LS1 swap, I would hunt down someone with a salvage 02 F-body car and pull that drivetrain. Those cars are making serious power in stock form. Next on our list for that combo is a set of pacesetter headers, cats and Y pipe, and a custom tune by Jeff at CAM! Mike

Obviously stitch welding is the best way to do it. But seam welding is better than those spot welds and seam sealers used at the factory. I'd just continue on with stitch welds from here forward. Mike

You might also want to check here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=53 I periodically see LS1/LS6s sell cheap. My little brother had a guy try to sell him a mid-mileage LS1 lasty week for $1500. Mike

Jmortenson, Those Magnesun superchargers are prefered over centrifugal superchargers (which is why I caveated the comments I made abover in parens) and the tuners I know prefer them. Only issue is hood clearance, so the bulging hood is a tip that something more is at play than a heads cam deal. Cozy, I bet if you asked anyone that didn't know your car, but saw it running around town (Especially youngsters and old time hotrodders) that every single one of them would say "Man I bet that car make 500HP at the wheels" and NOT 320WHP. I'm not knocking your build, or your car. But it's been my experience that most guys who install roots blower (Big or smallblock) generally expect more than they get in return. Now, is it the TUNER or the configuration? MY bet is on a little of both. There's a reason they are still used heavily in NHRA and IHRA competition. I just don't think they are ideal for an "optimal" street performance car. Just my opinion. Mike

The pump I'm using came with my FI setup about 3 years ago. It's from a Porsche 928/ 911 Turbo according to the numbers on it. Since I have no money in it, I'll use it for now. The duck bill or ducks foot, depending on who you talk to, will fit in the bottom of the cell and act as the pickup for the cell. Using one on each side at the very bottom of the box I'll weld up should insure that we have fuel under cornering on each side of the tank. Of course, the box won't be very large, but large enough to trap the fuel. I expect it to be about 6 wX 6 hX 12l. Mike

Larry, Let us know how it does on the rollers! Mike

You might be surprised... Case in point... The shop where we had JIm Mcnemar's red car built wheeled in a custom kit car 32 Ford coupe. It was a bigblock chevy car sporting a roots blower and an owner who claimed 700+WHP. Talk about crying the blues when we put that thing on the rollers and it wouldn't even twist 300 to the wheels... After the car was completely redone and the proper tune was put to it, the car actually made over 475WHP, but it took a complete rebuild and a LOT of tuning of the blower/ carbs/ Fuel/ Ignition/ Timing to get the car to perform like it should. Big block roots blower type cars look hot, and roots blowers in general LOOK menacing on any car. But don't be fooled. They aren't the best way to make big power unless you're a pro shop running a PRO NHRA drag car and have the staff on hand to deal with the complexities. (Newer type blowers used in oem FI Cars excluded of course!) Nope, Every single hotrodder I've seen running a roots blower on their personal hotrod has experienced nothing but problems and quakes at the thought of actually getting on the rollers to find out how poor the car is performing. Mike

:2thumbs: Mike

Well that went well... bjhines, I'm sure you didn't mean to come off as it reads in the text, but you're blazing new territory here and the help you did get from others was about as good as I'd expect, given what you were trying to accomplish, then trying to explain what the solution was... Take a deep breath. Most of us are here to help and learn... Mike

I was gonna order the black Box from ATL, but decided to make my own little setup. I will be empolying an aluminum box with connections for duckbills on two sides running to a Y connector. I hope this and my Porsche fuel pump are sufficient to keep my fuel infected motor fed! Mike

I believe the 5.3 liter version is similar in configuration. I know the intake and heads can be swapped onto the LS1 block. This leads me to the statement above. I'm sure there are slight differences, like accessory layout or sensor locations, but I bet everything else is pretty close. Mike

Mike, I thought you was contemplating a move to Northern Va.??? And here I was cleaning out space in my attic for you to sleep in! I kill me... Mikelly

I hope they both (Mopar and GM) build them. I think it will be a very interesting time to have the new Mustang, the Challenger and the Camaro out at the same time. Personally, I think Dodge will take the leap into production before GM, simply because Dodge is more of a risk taker, and GM is in such poor situation financially... Don't get me wrong, all three of the Big American manufacturers are hurting financially, but GM seems to be feeling more of the sting these days. Mike

Hold on there cowboy... You're about 8 feet taller than me... They fit me. You're a whole 'nuther story! You might want to call IO Port and ask about fitment for "taller" guys if you end up in that situation. That said, I'm ubber impressed with the quality and fit. Mike

Got my Kirkey Seats in. I'm 5 ft.8 and have a 30inch inseam and my waist size is between 34-36 depending on the cut of the jean. I bought the 17inch wide seat from http://www.ioportracing.com with the velour seat cover. What I like about these seats is that they are modular and you can add the upper shoulder and halo supports later. What I really like about these seats besides the $189 price (including cover) is how they fit my size. I might should have gone with the 16 inch seat as the 17 is slightly larger than I needed, but I didn't want it to be to tight with a driving suit on, and I can get padding to bolster the sides. If you are a solid 34 inch waist leaning more towards a 32/33 inch, then get the size 16. These seats fit like a glove and feel GREAT. I got the 20 degree layback model and will be buying the mounts for them. Unfortunately I will have to bolt them in as fixed seats without sliders, unless I can find a specific mounting setup that slides and is still safe. I checked into ButlerBuilt seats and was told that there is a FIVE HUNDRED seat order that has been placed by NASCAR teams and they get first priorety over single orders. I was also told by one supplier of UltraShield seats that they are also backed up on production, so I gambled and ordered the Kirkeys. Both seats came shipped in one box and the box didn't weight what one of my Corbeau A4s weighs! I'll get pics of them when I've got them mounted up. Mike

The few who do rise up and screw members here get a royal thumping verbally, and if proven through all email traffic that the seller screwed a member, we sheiiitcan his sorry arse from the membership. This brings up a valid point and we'll discuss in the admin forum and get back to you guys... I've only had bad dealings with FOUR members since being on HybridZ... One was a transaction where I sold some brakes to a former member who simply was to STUPID to install them correctly. That member threatened to rape my wife and physically assault me, all the way from Birmingham Alabama... and I haven't forgotten about it... Anyway, of the other members who have screwed me, Les Heath's little scam stings the most... A Gnose and a one off rear spoiler/ taillight panel were taken... I'd like to have five minutes alone with ole' Les. Mike

Good read, and an excellent lesson! Mike

Brett, It's called evolution. The RX7 takes huge advantage over 35 years in advances. I used to think it was a badge of honor to strap yourself into the Zcar and get beat up with stupid stiff suspension, sweat your balls off without sufficient A/C, and worry about getting killed from doors that are way to thin, and metal that is 30+ years old. I love my Zcar, but it can't hold a candle to today's offerings. That is why it has become a track car project. At this point, if I trash it at the track, I'm less concerned. As to the comments about the T56. I think it is important for members to understand that tuning and cam choice have a lot to do with being happy with the T56 combo. In my old 383/T56 combo, the 6th gear was useless and I believe tuning/ cam choice was a huge issue. If someone is doing the LSx swap, it really doesn't matter since most cam/ head combos are geared towards the OEM combo and you get good tuning out of the box. I believe the GM LS1/2/6/7 motors are full on taking the place of the traditional small block chevy for motor swaps in project cars of all types. This market is going to explode over the next two years, and we'll be sick of them in no time at all. Guys who think it is cool now will be looking for something else just to be unique. But it will be hard to beat the power, economy, and dependability of this combination. Can you tell I'm a fan? Mike

Lets take a few moments to think from the other side of the fence, guys... Mechanics are employees of a "shop" who gets the lion's share of the hourly rate to cover employee salaries, insurances (VERY EXPENSIVE), retail shop space, and other costs of doing business. A mechanic normally gets paid in one of two ways; an hourly rate, or the "book" rate on a job. Often times a mechanic gets a car with little "accurate" info from the customer as to the problem. If that customer is an "enthusiast" who has "attempted" to fix it him or herself, then the cost should go up exponentially. Why do you say this? Because often times when someone "thinks" they know what they are doing, and in reality doesn't, then more parts of the puzzle are impacted. I speak from first hand experience. I owned my first Zcar when I was 21 years old and barely capable of installing a CAI! I used to drive my poor uncle absolutely Nuts with my complaining about what "he" did to fix my car, when in actuality I'd get the car back from him and then pop the hood and try to "tweek" it myself. This is often where the enthusiast and the true shade tree do-it-yourselfer part ways. We're all good at certain things and bad at others. If you can't change your own clutch out, or do a brake job or tune up, you likely will never get as far as even understanding how a clutch system WORKS. That's OK, but realize that because your mechanic DOES know these things, you get to pay for his education or knowledge, his tools and time, and the shop owner's ability to allow him to work on your car. Is it crooked mechanics or inept "enthusiasts"? Now, before everyone throws a fit on me, I'm not saying that this particular example is such a case. Just understand that there are always three sides to a story. Generally the customer has one side, colored by the retail sting to the pocket, the mechanic has his side of the story, colored by his lack of ability to experience the "issue" with said problem part, coupled with the aforementioned potential "enthusiast" self help fix, and then of course what really happened and or is wrong with said poor sick Datsun Zcar. I eventually did what Savageskaterkid is suggesting and started doing all my own work in my little humble shop. It has been rewarding, but at a cost. I've spent less time doing "fun" and "healthy" activities that I enjoy and certainly has taken a toll on my relationship with my family, because I'm spending more time working my own cars and spending less time enjoying their companionship. Am I saving money? Sure. Do I always get it right? NO. Can I fire my mechanic? Sure, but then I'll be slandering my own inept ability to fix my own car, which is the true tragedy in all this fuss about crooked mechanics. Are you gonna come back here and tell all of us when you screw yourself over on a job, or get it wrong and end up costing yourself more money in the long run? It will happen, don't ask how I know... Take your car to another shop. Try to be as helpful with information and symptoms as possible. Make sure to write everything down ahead of time so you don't forget when you're rushing at the service counter. And make sure the service manager knows you've had bad experiences before. Put them on notice that you'll expect to see the bad parts being replaced afterwards and you'll want to "understand" just what service you're paying for and what part was replaced, and more importantly why. And finally, GO to your local college or highschool and enroll in their adult auto mechanics courses. LEARN while working on cars that don't weigh into your daily life. But learn, and be fair and objective. And above all else, remember to be fair and reasonable. Your money isn't all that's at stake. You gotta be able to look at yourself in the mirror. Mike