Mikelly

OK, A Pick of the wiper wiring for the low and High speed and power sources can be seen here: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z CHECK IN THE NEW zCAR PROJECT FOLDER.. Mike

Austin, I've got a sneaky suspicion that "try" isn't an issue... You'll succeed. You're one motivated and smart young man... It isn't a matter of trying... Just do it! Mike

If you don't know what it is, then by all means do NOT allow it to load. That is the biggest thing these pricks are banking on... Bottom line is you'll never get the hackers, but you can get the companies that allow these links to be generated... It is one thing to go to a site and actively seek to download something. It is quite another to go to a site to read info or surf and to unknowingly come away with something... Porn sites and gaming sites are the biggest distributors of this garbage, and free software/ shareware sites are a close third. Mike

Austin, I'm gonna copy the way you did those braces. I want to get the new seats as low and far back as possible. I think I have my Corbeau A4s sold and hope to order my Kirkey Intermediate seats this week. Mike

I'll snap some pics today and get them into the http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z New Zcar project folder later today guys... Check by tonight and you'll have some pics to see what I've done, but the dash braces are not welded in just yet. Mike

It's funny that this has come up. We've just hired a system administrator to maintain our company machines and he is a recent graduate from the Microsoft certifications for MCSE, MCNE and He's doing some beta testing for Microsoft on adware and spyware programs. According to him the only true cure is to reformat the disk. Once adware or spyware programs get into the registry they are almost impossible to clean all traces. It can be done, but most of the programs available for free are not capable of cleaning up all traces and the virus eventually comes back from the corner of a file it has attached itself to and continues its work killing your processor. We're reformatting both the machines we've found adware and spyware on and then using http://www.avast.com/ on all our machines. That, along with some customer tweeking to XP Professional will nail down our machines we hope. I've run Spybot, Spyware blaster, and a few others and they simply won't remove all traces of the files... And god forbid you get a virus in the CMOS like one of my machines... It is basically useless at this point. I'm tired of these bastards and their little sneeky programs... Wish we could line them up against a wall and shoot them all... The damage they do to personal and work PCs, lost time and aggrevation deserves such a death in my opinion... Mike

Here's wishing health, prosperity, happiness, and much success to each of you here in HybridZ land. And Here's wishing that each and everyone of you gets your Zcar projects off the jackstands and onto the street! Mike Kelly

One of KB's Cheif Dyno Operators used to be on this site (Mainly to lurk) a lot and he called me regularly to check in and just chat. His name is Oz Cheeck and Oz was running an 8 second Datsun TRUCK with a SBC TT setup, running KB Hyper pistons with zero problems. It has a lot to do with the tune, and how lean you try to push it. Oz was willing to comp me a set to try if I ever boosted a motor. Never got to that point, but it was nice to know guys like Oz were out there... That said, I'd go forged for the added protection, which is exactly what we did on my LS1 and my 383 Stroker! Mike

Get the track car done. Get on a contract generating revenue. Start working out again (Started today!) Lose 30 pounds. Happy, Merry and all that Jazz HybridZ! Mike

http://www.swracecars.com sells them. Mike

Yasin, Buy it. They are pricey to restore, and the electrical gremlins are for real, but they are very unique. I love them! Mike

See the painless Sticky thread... I have sorted out the three most important wires for the wiper harness... Power, Slow and fast! Mike

On the wiper wiring, What I ended up doing was finding the initial power feed wire, and the high and low speed wires. The two yellow wires and the red wire w/blue stripe are the three. The red wire w/blue stripe is your high speed setting feed, and I'll check the other two later today and edit this post with which is the power feed and which isn't. The other wires associated with the wiper stalk assembly are all blue or blue with stripes of various colors. I suspect they are for the variable speed wiper settings and the washer motor assembly. I ended up using the cigarette lighter feed because my nice new Painless panel wiper feed didn't have any power. I'll pull the panel off my cage to trouble shoot that on final check out of all the circuites and rewire as necessary. Mike

Yup, nothing wrong with a two bolt. In some areas you can't even get 4 bolts anymore. So, I'd stick with a two bolt and get some splayed caps only if you plan for higher HP ranges, or forced induction power adders and the like. Go for it Bill... And While you're at it, finish the Painless wiring, would ya? And take pics! I could use them right now! I have the three primary wires sourced for the wiper power, low and high speeds if anyone is racking their brains on that... Mike

We're getting ready to install an Exedy Stage three Hyper single disc kit on the vette. The new Z06 clutch is starting to slip at higher revs. I'm hoping when I go back to the dyno on the 14th I'll have some better news with the few upgrades made since the last trip in November. Gotta get ready for Reynolds in late March. Mike

Yea, Jon I should just ditch it all and go bare bones. I'm trying to keep it on the edge of legal so I can drive it on the street to do shake down runs in it. Mike

Went from 90% done to back to square one. No turn signals, no headlights, no dash lights, no park lights... I think I'm gonna need all those 8 other switches... Pretty sure I just cooked the living hell out of one of them... On the plus side, I've got a two speed wiper deal working off the stalk. Mike

Funny what two hours in the garage can accomplish, along with the laptop and the Painless thread sticky! I now have emergency flashers, headlights, and taillights. Still sorting out the whole turn signal issue, and still have to wire my switch box up, which is five circuits and the push starter, but after that, I'm pretty much done. I expect to finish out the dash this coming week, then get the car on the lift and start fabbing the rear differential craddle for the R230, as well as finish up fitting the trans mount to the chassis and welding in the driveshaft hoop... Fun Fun FUN! Mike

Guys, I'm tracking down the last few parts to load the motor and trany into the car and I need a clutch kit and a Hydnraulic release bearing... Was going to go the slave cylinder route, But realy think the other way will give some more clearance... Anyone have sources for the Hydraulice bearing route? McLeod or Tilton are the two ways I'm leaning towards. The Howe unit has issues with modified motors/ drivetrains, and I'm seeing the Quartermaster unit out there but not heard of anyone here using it... Mike

Jay, that is the smartest thing you could do. My guess is you'll learn what all the fuss is about in that class and be able to draw your own conclusions... Bottom line is there isn't a wrong answer... It's preference! Mike

Sorry guys... I've been doing the wiring and haven't completed the dash install just yet. Because all the wiring is behing the dash, runing around the front horizontal brace on the cage, I don't want the dash in the way so I can trace everything down. I hope to be done by early next week. I don't have a heater or AC, but do plan to get one of those smaller hotrod heater setups to blow hot air on the windshield just incase, and I may route a few hoses over to the passenger areas. What I did was trim a panel using bulkhead nuts welded into the firewall and trans tunnel from the factory, and cut a sheet of stainless to run from trans tunnel up to the firewall and mounted the MSD and the Holley Commander 950 on that unit. Behind that unit is still a large amount of space. I mounted my Accusump there. My fuse panel is mounted to the roll cage horizontal dash brace and I have my battery master on/off switch mounted in the driver's side rear 1/4 window. Sitting in the car I can reach my hand around and cut the switch off and corner workers can get to it from outside the car. I still need to weld on about four braces to the roll cage horizontal bar that will act as braces for the face of the dash. Once I'm done with the wiring, I'll pull the seat, remove the dash and console and weld those braces, drill the holes for the dash, epoxy the last few gage brackets and mount the dash and remaining gages. If any of you guys NEED some pics of something LIKE NOW for something you're specifically working on, I'll snap a few and throw them on my yahoo folder. If not, I'd really rather do all the documenting at the end, where I can pull it all appart and take pics in phases. I'm down to the last 10 wires on my painless 17 circuit kit (About 300Ft of wire! ) and trying to trace everything out and troubleshoot it all, so I am in the home stretch of this portion of the project. I've kept TWO extra dashes to show some of what I did to get to this point. Mike

Stock parts? I just gave a guy a complete black interior and 8 door windows...two days ago. I kept the NINE column stalks just to be sure I got it nailed... Who needs NINE anyway??? I'm such a packratt... Thanks for the offer though Mark. Doing anything with the Mongoose yet? Mike

Another case in point why I am absolutely crazy about the LSX powertrain platform. Good job! Mike

So did Glen with his rebody kit car! That beast was at our last shindig this past month! Mike

Looks good... I'm down to my last 10 wires and I'm about to chuck the whole column mounted multiswitches and run everything off toggle switches... Can't seem to get it all to work and I'm about done... Mike