Mikelly

Excellent numbers Man! Mike

Ain't it cool? Nothing like breaking out of the 11s! Mike

Yup, Ross was nice enough to give me a ring and chat about my specific needs to have the stub axles drilled for both ford and chevy bolt patterns... Of course, right now I'm to broke to pay attention until I get past court and taxes, but these are on my list of items to get! I'll get them done in both chevy and ford, and I'd like to get them tapped for screw in studs like the hubs I got from Jamie... Mike

Got a question for you... Where did you get your gnose from and do you have pics of it? Mike

Tippman all the way... Very easy to maintain, inexpensive, and VERY accurate. Mike

Ross is now making a 240Z offset aluminum hub... The key differences in Ross and Jamie's is that Jamie's center cap is attached differently, and Jamie has his unit drilled for both FORD and CHEVY bolt patterns and he employed screw in studs... Beyond that, they are both good units... Jamie left mine in their natural aluminum/clear finish and they look AWESOME! Mike

I know Rufus, I thought of you when I picked up the parts on Tuesday! Doug, the paint damage was repaired and the interior is complete (Again!). I'll let Jim comment on the paint, since it is his car and he has yet to see the roofline in direct sunlight! Got a call yesterday evening from the shop (I get 3-10 per week!) with a report on the tire fitment with the new hubs and brakes bolted up... Our tire clearance issues are fixed... The backspacing issue with the rims caused all this mess, but we're past that now... Just to clarify, Ross' Hubs WERE NOT the issue... Jim ordered his hubs from Ross, not knowing the offset difference, then ordered his wheels from CCW with a backspacing identical to the wheels we replaced. THAT was the issue... Now we're back to a 240Z style aluminum front hub! Mike

YUp, progress is good! I'll be at the Shop with the fabricator tuning Jim's car on Saturday. We're using the same software and standalone ECU on his and mine, so I'll learn quite a bit. I'm surprised no one has contacted me over the aluminum hubs and Extreme 13INch 2piece MML rotor package... Heck of a deal... I'd keep them for myself if I didn't end up with Jamie's hub design! Mike

Yes, I've actually been working on my Zcar over the last few weeks, can you believe it? I'll actuall yhave to start cleaning out the pics and post new ones... I mounted my accusump in the firewall under where my dash should be. I also plan to wire the MSD and Coil in side the same area, and possibly the vacuum cannister. We'll see. On the engine side of the house, I finished up cutting my oil pan up, welding it up, and bolting the bottom of the motor back up... Only to find my header still hits on the driver's side... I may just ding the header in the required area and call it a day... Only issue is the header is coated already... nice... I got the harmonic balancer bolted up and found I have enough thread to torque the bolt to 75Ft# torque, so I guess my crank threads are cool... may still get a keensert at some point... Now I need some water pump spacers so I can get the belts aligned... I welded up seat frame mounts for the Corbeaus and have painted the fabricated areas of the floorpans... I was able to lower the seats into the floor better for helmet clearance and some seat angle adjustment. I also bolted on Jamie's aluminum hubs on my Z, along with the Caliper mount for the PBR calipers from Ford. I'll be using the Cobra caliper now and just today sold the Vette calipers I was planning to use. Next I'll plumb the brake lines,fuel lines, oil filter relocation mount, catch can for the radiator, and a host of other bits... I'm getting closer! I pulled the MML rotors, hats, and aluminum hub assemblies off Jim's car and replaced them with a custom setup by River City Speed... Nothing wrong with Ross' Extreme 13inch brake package, but it was the wrong offset for Jim's wheel setup, and the stock 240hub was required. If you're interested in the rotors and aluminum hubs, let me know offline and check the ad in the forsale section under brakes! Fun Fun FUN! Mike

Damn, I'm in the peculiar position of agreeing with magnum... You showed your *** and you expect what to happen when you go before the judge? You don't think the cop took notes? Uh I'm facing reckless driving right now for grabbing second gear and spinning tires... I was polite and I hope it is reflected when I go to court because It is mandatory in Virginia. I'd pay it and move on, and uh, I don't recommend acting like an *** the next time... Calling them names and acting up will likely only escalate the situation further... Mike

Not to beat a dead horse... Track time... Best money you will spend on the most important equipment for your Zcar.... Y-O-U. Mike

Any movement on this? I need to know what to tell JIm M. Mike

Lets hope not! Mike

I just installed my Accusump in my Car (Inside against the firewall) and they work well... I currently have 8AN lines for it, but honestly recommend 10AN line and fittings instead... I may upgrade all mine over time... The larger line helps oil flow! The Oberg is nice, but complex... I'd look at the canister type units from Canton, and System1! Also, I run an adapter off the block and hang the cannister for the filter up front in front of the radiator. This allows for the canister to get fresh cool air around it, is made of thick aluminum, so isn't prone to damage from rocks or debris, and is a cheap mans oil cooler! It also makes oil changes that much easier! On the mounts, I'd use the thickest stuff you can get... That factory rail isn't that thick, so you really want to beef the rail up where you are welding the mount... I'd "C" the inner side of the frame about 6-8 inches with 1/8 to 1/4 plate and then weld the mount to it... Be sure to brace the under underside of the mount... Lots of weight and load there... which is why the factory crossmember is employed on all the swap kits offered. Cheers! Mike

PEEj, My recommendation would be to buy one of the Cheap oilpans that Grumpy posted last week... and get the pickup with it, then modify THAT pan to fit the crossmember... You want to start with a winged 7inch deep pan and go from there... The pan in your pick looks like a traditional deep 8.5 inch sump pan. Mike

Jamie, Come gitsome! Hahaha Seriously, my point in weighing in on this thread was to point out that in near stock trim, most L6 Zcars are pretty slow... A 16 second timeslip in a early 240Z that is unmodified is pretty hard to get... A few magazines recorded them with professional drivers back in the day... But I never personally experienced that in stock trim and I've owned 18 of these cars... With a cam and some exhaust work and a little timing, I was running 15s in an early 260Z with no bumpers... I even let a NHRA licensed driver drive the car to a 15.40s timeslip... They just aren't that quick without gears, and some head work/ induction... The wife's old skewl 97 328i is fun. It is not a race car, has four doors, and is an auto... And I've surprised a NUMBER of much more worthy vehicles with it... But I suspect it is driver and not car... Oh well! Mike

Dual 3 inch pipes coming out are gonna be very hard to run on a Zcar and retain ground clearance... These are 2.5 in and out...They are highflowing units... Mike

You can remove the error code for the second set of 02s and just use simms for it. I'd still run them if you are using some high flow cats. I plan to buy a copy of LS1 Edit and an autotap when I need them, but I haven't needed them yet. I've got a pair of magnaflow cats brand ne in the box I'd let go reasonable... They are 2.56 inch in and 2.5 inch out. Bought them for my Vette and they wouldn't fit side by side under it in the narrow (Makes the Zcar tunnel look huge) trans tunnel... $100 plus $20 to ship them! Mike

You might want to check the exhuast system and make sure some flying variant of a wasp hasn't made a home while it was stored. THat hose sounds like the crankcase vent hose, but it has been some time since I worked on an L6, so maybe someone else can chime in... I'd also recommend going to an autoparts store and buying a Hayne's manual gfor the car. Mike

Well my recommendation is to buy a truck and a cheap trailer... You want to enjoy your Zcar? You'll be trackin' it along with the rest of us before all is said and done! Mike

To further complicate the mix... While at VIR two weekends ago, I spoke with a source who shall not be identified, but was present the previous week when GM was at VIR WITH their new Z06 platform testing. The new LS7 has some issues with SLINGING the crank pulley OFF the front of the motor... STILL have not resolved the issues concerning that and GM is wringing hands over it! Might require a bit of "WAIT AND SEE" before they get my hard earned coin! Mike

Well We're talking a bone stock Datsun Zcar in the initial post, right? This would be an original 17-18 second quarter mile car, right? If THAT is the case, I'd put money on the Bimmer... Just my opinion... Zcars are great springboards to something great in modified form... Pretty pathetic in stock trim, and I mean TRULY stock trim. SlowNrusty, I'm DEAD serious... Kid was so pissed, he asked me WHAT I was spraying in the 328i... I laughed and told him my C5 Vette was sitting at home awaiting his car to grow up and become something besides an RSX... He wasn't amused... Mike

Pop, I'm gonna take a stab at answering this question... Due to the poor design of this 30+ year old platform, and the fact that the only settings from the factory are for Front only toe... I'd say using anything is better than nothing at all... However, if you plan to spend your money, I'd go with a control arm or camber plate over an aluminum bushing. these offset bushings wear out and move under extreme use... Key is to get camber and caster adjustment... something the factory Zcar had none of. Mike

Last weekend at the road course a Cadilac was on course and spun... Guess who CALLED? "ONSTAR online, is everything OK? We noticed that you had a spin." Now THAT is scary... Suppose there might be some grief from GM on the next warranty work done? Mike

I'm in the middle of cutting up my canton pan and would recommend a cheaper pan to modify. This pan works well in original form, but why not use something cheaper to cut up like the ones Grumpy recommended... a 7inch sump pan with trap doors and a windage tray is all you need! Mike