Mikelly

OK guys, I'm getting close here... I'm dropping off the motor this coming week to the engine builder, and I plan to have everything back before March 31st. I'm gonna order my Holley COmmander Computer and software unless you guys say otherwise... I haven't been online much lately, so if I've missed something that is a MUST HAVE, let me know now... Just to remind those who forgot...383 stroker, aluminum heads with 2.05/1.6 valves, Roller hybraulic assembly, 1.5 rockers on a Isky cam, and 10.1:1 compression. Running a cutler intake with 42# injectors and a 1000CFM TB. Mike Kelly

Triple... the washers that I reference above are supposed to go in between the caliper and the caliper mount point on the strut assembly. This provides the proper shim alignment for the caliper over the rotor. In the original article I used regular washers, which worked OK, but then I found proper Shims from Port City Racing Products and ditched the washers, as Mike Gibson referenced in his post above... they aren't all machined to the same tolerance! Mike Kelly

What I used was 1/2 inch billet wheel spacers on my late 74Z with Wilwood caliper shims which are properly mic'ed washers. They are the exact same thickness and you can get them at ANY race parts supplier. Now, since coming to this site, I have learned that there is a difference in hubs from early Zs to the later models. Mike/SCCA can better describe how this effects the offset of the brake hat, but that is what I used and it WAS 1/2 inch thick spacer and NOT a very thick shim on the caliper to align it. Sorry I didn't get this sooner, I was welding up some control arms last night! Mike

Stony, I think he is waiting on the connecting rods and pistons I'm sticking in the mail today (Sorry Terry, real busy!)!!! Mike

I used a VDO electric speedo in mine and their sensor, and I was told by folks at VDO that the general motors sensor is the BEST unit to use for accuracy. I will be running the Autometer that Jim has when my car is back together. Mike

FYI Guys, Centerline will NOT make a 4 lug wheel ANY WIDER than 8 inches. I spoke to one of their customer reps last year when I was eyeing the AZTEC wheel and they just wouldn't budge... Thats why I went 5 lug. So if you don't need to go wider than 8 inches, I've owned centerlines and they are increadibly light and reasonably priced. Mike

Nion, I totally understand...Parts ain't cheap, and making them isn't. I have a set of camber plates (Carrera Models) I'm selling for $100 plus shipping, and as always, I recommend going to the MSA show and looking at the stuff all the folks will have on display! Mike

I know one of the guys that was approached by MSA for the original design (He actually is the guy that supplies my parts to make my control arm kit) and he told me that it wasn't what it is cracked up to be. For what it is worth, this same guy (John Williams) just put my parts on the front of his Z and he FLIPPED OUT after driving his car at two events... all the sudden he is competing and winning his class... Mike

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601986220 These are what I got... I got tired and basically said "Screw it" and hit the buy it now button... probably could have gotten them for about $40 less, but I need to hit the rack. Longt day in court... Mike

Well I just won another bid on ebay for some Wiseco forged pistons (For a 6inch 383 combo) and plasma ring set for $419... So far I'm $730 in the hole for rods, rings and pistons... Now I need to ferry everything up to Pete's recommended shop and have it all (Crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, and balancer) balanced after the crank is turned. I suppose I'll be getting them to order the bearings while they have everything. I'll also have to send my block out to have it checked and honed. And of course I'll need a good pump and a good connection for a Canton Road Race pan, dip stick and windage tray. Should have done this in the first place... Somebody buy my Engine parts!!! Mike

Grumpy, I think there was something lost in the translation... That motor was a special built crate motor USING ARP STUDS (although not top of the line wave locs on the rod bolts) and using a braced oil pickup tube (Another member here saw the parts on Saturday and can attest to the construction, build and parts used) and I HAD NO IDEA what happened. I dropped the pan to do a re-ring and send the parts off for an internal balance only and found this stuff... NOT what I expected.. THAT IS THE POINT! ANd the parts had some balancing to them... The parts appear to have been weight matched... I just bought the rods you found me on ebay and I'm bidding right now on some WISECO forged units and will probably win those... Mike

Ron, That was the whole reason the motor was torn down in the first place. I absolutely screwed up when I originally had the motor built...But looking back on it now, it wouldn't have mattered, since the pump pickup tube broke off and the motor starved for oil ruining the bearings and causing me now to have the crank turned! JOY!!! I'm so sick of this whole motor issue.... Mike

Hold on there tex... Did you bed in the pads? You can't just go out after installing new components and trounce on them. Average break-in is to drive the car for approximately 300 miles in traffic to allow the pads to bed in properly, unless you have racing pads... I'd guess you glazed the pads. Also, you may need to upgrade your fluid to something that will shed more heat... Also, look in ANY magazine...They all do their testing from between 6-70mphour down to zero... Not 90mph... Mike Kelly

Well it looks like I'm getting those rods Grumpy found (Prowler 6 inch H beam 4340)for $289 and I found a set of Wiseco forged pistons with moly rings on e-bay I'm planning to bid on once I confirm I have a .30 overbore... If I can get it all for less than $700 I'll do back flips... then I'll just get the crank turned and order some bearings and be done... Mike

Now THAT'S in my Budget! Nice looking set of rods... Now I need to find some Pistons and I'm set... Mike

Guys, I got a compy of Desktop Dyno from a buddy of mine last night and I'm gonna screw around with it a bit... Also, Jamie T. came to my house yesterday and saw my rods. I need to have someone LOOK at them, as they have been woprked on BIG TIME and I need to make sure I don't already have something besides the stock PM Rod... Also, the crank spins in the journals supersmooth, which was an indicator to Jamie and me both that this motor had some attention to the build process spent on it, including some balancing in the system... Mike

Yup, I'm building a stroker 383 and need 6 inch rods and a piston that will yield a 9.8:1-10:1 compression ratio with a 76cc chamber head. I may end up with really expensive rods, and KB Pistons, but I'm still doing research. I may wait until the rest of the car is 100% done and then go from there... Mike

I have every intention of using that car to get 540hp out of it, which is what the numbers say I should make... And yes, Silver state, Big Bend, some kind of open road/ major lapping event that will reach DEEP into the 180s or (MUCH) higher. Bottom line is I'm being cheap here and I know it... I have a car to finish, parts to buy for customers control arms, a building to construct, a house to do major work on (Converting garage to house space) and now I find that the bottom end of my motor needs R&R... and the crank will need polished or turned, thanks to the pump cavitating... Been a banner month! OK, enough whining... Mike

Guys, believe me, I'm not questioning the comments made by Grumpy, as I'm 100% sure that aftermarket rods are WAY better. I'm just sorting it all out and I've had some sticker shock on prices for Forged rods and pistons... I'm trying to get the BEST deal possible, and I can't get anything for under $800 so far... Mike

Had a couple of guys from one of the Chevy boards contact me offline and tell me NOT to get rid of my LT1 PM rods. I'm confused. They claim to have these rods in a couple of nitrous motors making well over 700HP... So should I just get these rods checked, and install the top of the line waveloc bolts and keep them, or what??????? Mike Kelly

Well John...Since you are considering them...BUY MINE!!!! Check the forsale section! Mike

Most of the "pre-made" cages will require additional modifications to work. Guy at Jegs explained that they can't get the cuts EXACT since they don't have the car in house to test fit the tubes to... I don't think that 8 point price is bad INCLUDING shipping, based on some prices I have seen for installed cages that were hand made by chassis and racecar shops! Good Luck! Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC Intelligent Suspension Solutions!

Between 3/4 and 7/8 inch would be fine. Bump steer spacers are not needed when you do the first... Also, if you use an adjustable control arm (Like Mine ) You can adjust in or out as much camber as you need, up to 6 degrees, and you won't have to machine the control arm to fit the crossmember. Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC Intelligent Suspension Solutions!

Do a search in this category...TONS of info on this subject here! Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC Intelligent Suspension solutions

OK John...You SUCK! You're getting all the cool toys... MAN! Looks awesome! Mike