Mikelly

Hahahahahaha... You guys make my day! Mike

I got the V-band clamps/flanges and did a little port matching today. I got the exhaust system buttoned up completely today. Got the radiator to install, and all the fluids to fill the motor/trans with.

Matt, I'm going to be using bigger heads (I'm thinking PRC227s and a custom grind camshaft. I already have the shortblock complete. I'm trying to make the 455WHP limit I need for NASA. All that said, I didn't hear back from the "buyer" so I'm going to weld some V-band clamps on the existing 383 strokers block huggers and install them along with the rest of the exhaust and start putting fluids back in this car. Of course I'm aware that when I do this, I'll get an email from this guy saying he'll come and get it... Or not. Onward and upward. Mike

All valid points. The plan is simple. I will most likely go with the LS1 because it is in house and it is mostly "there". I have most of the induction (LS6 intake/Clives TB), Custom long tube headers, ARP bolt kit, ARE drysump oil pan, and complete bottom end. I also have a clutch kit with light weight flywheel. All will marry up to the existing trans and all will work with the FAST efi. Things still needed: Rest of the drysump Heads/cam package EFI injection harness Injectors Johns Cars motormount kit I have the GT3 and the Turbo miata to get back on track with if need be, and I've already warned the "better half". I got seriously sidelined last fall with my sickness/surgery. However, I plan to make up for lost time this year. Although I DO agree that starting over after pulling the 383 out is a setback, I also see the added value of that lost weight as something I can not ignore. Matt, I am not as much a fan of working on my car anymore, either. Although I still get satisfaction from working on it, I would much rather drive it at the track. Last July was the end of my driving season due to the motor issue. This much I do know: From now on when I think something isn't right, don't listen to others. I knew this motor was going to have oiling issues and should have pulled the motor 2+ years ago. From now on I'm not going to just "do it". If something's not 100%, it comes out and appart, no messing around... Long story short, and burried somewhere way back in this thread... We started that motor dry with no oil in it about 3.5 years ago. The previous year I'd gotten the call from mom in the middle of changing the oil. She just found out that she had breast cancer and was going to need double mastectomy. I put the drain plug back in the oil pan, shoved the car to the side, and didn't touch it for 6 months. When I did, we dediced to start it. There was NO OIL in the motor. Everyone present said "It'll be ok". Anyway, As much as I'm not a fan of setbacks and as much as I have bitched about this project, if the guy is serious and if he's going to pay me for the motor, it's coming out. If not, then I'll continue with the plan above and finish the LS1 this year and install it over the fall/winter. Either way, I'm going LS1. There is no denying the weight savings/performance advantages. Mike

So I forgot about that Craigslist ad I had put up for the motor, and yesterday I had a guy ping me with specific detailed questions. We emailed back and forth for over an hour, before he said those magical words "I want it". So now I'm stuck... If he comes up with the cash this weekend (And I'm loath to trust humans right now) I'll pull the motor and sell it. If not this weekend, then it should be running here shortly... So I may well be on my way to an LSx based motor afterall... I have to admit I'm seriously thinking about doing the LS376 now, instead of building the one I have in house. Mike

Made fairly significant progress this evening working on the Zcar. I got the oil system completely cleaned, reinstalled the cooler, lines, and filter bases. I also connected the fuel injection harness back up, connected the grounds for the chassis and EFI, the starter wiring, and tightened up the driveshaft. I am going to have to remove the motor mounts in order to install the headers... WONDERFUL!! I "might" have the motor ready to start by the end of the weekend. Mike

These are some no-name brand units I found on ebay about 3 years ago. They are 1 5/8th primary stainless units. Mike

What I did... Hmmm... OK, I reinstalled the accessories on the 383 stroker, installed the oilpan, The flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/bellhousing, the motor in the Zcar, then removed the trans to troubleshoot the hydraulics, replace the trans, bellhousing, clutch, pressure plate, reinstalled the mounts/driveshaft, and then welded up the headerflanges. Mike

Thanks Matt. Happy Holidays and I'm shooting for hooking up at a track with you this year. Mike

I welded up the header flanges to the downpipes today, bolted up the trans brace, the driveshaft, and the trans mount. Also got to the shifter and installed it. Maybe I'll get to the wiring of the starter and the engine bay tomorrow evening. Mike

Further update... I'll be re-using my older block huggers for now. Not going to spend any more time and money developing the existing platform beyond the current setup. I'm just going to weld the 3 bolt flanges together. I'll build the LS1 over the spring/summer and have it ready by next winter to go in. The 2147 hookers don't clear on the left as Rags and Tedder said above. If I get really adventurous over the spring/summer MAYBE I'll buy a header tube kit and make my own, but I've got bigger fish to fry, so I'm probably not going to waste the time. Mike

Burton, Got your email and will ping you later today. Mike

Trans is back in. This was a waste of time and I should have gone with my instinct on in Saturday and checked the hydraulic system first. The slave is hydrolocked. I disconnected it and had it hanging from the braided line and my kid stepped on the pedal... like pressing against a wall... So all this was a waste of time... I'll bleed the clutch this week, get everything back together and see what's what with the exhaust system by the coming weekend. Mike

Took an hour this afternoon and dropped the trans. Not sure what's going on with the clutch action. Going to have to remove the bellhousing to get to the clutch/pressure plate and re-inspect everything. Something is amiss. Get to it tomorrow. Mike

Motor is in the car. Can't get the clutch fork to actuate the clutch properly, so I'll have to investigate this issue. Funny how the same exact parts were working fine pre-rebuild. Mike

Based on searching the part number on this site, the headers will apparently need to be modified. How much, we'll see. Mike

That's VERY interesting. Thing to remember, and I can def. confirm this since I have one of each in my shop, side by side, but the engine bay of the 240SX is WIDER than the Zcar's. You have more space to work with. It's shorter, but that isn't much of an issue. Gives me an idea for our 240SX. If I decide to go with the LS376, we could install the LS1 in the 240sx... Mike

RSICARD check my build thread on the oilpan I just installed. It's pretty nice for the application and avoiding the whole kickout issue... And it was $59. Here are pics of the exhisting exhaust and the header I hope to use. The header number is 2147 from hooker.

Motor is going back in tomorrow. Got a really nice cheater oilpan that fits well with the existing pickup. Pan holds 6 quarts *(I measured it) and has a windage tray and trap doors. It's 7 inches deep and has ZERO kickout. This should be THE pan for the V8 swap for zero headache fitment. I'll sacrefice the extra half quart that the Champ and Canton pan provide to avoid that kickout. I also took some pics of the exhaust/headers.. I am not sure that I will or wont' have an issue with header clearance. We'll find out soon enough.

Funny you should mention this... I ditched my kickout oil pan. I went back to a "cheater" IMCA pan that has windage tray and trapdoors. It's 5 quarts plus filter. I'll give up the 1.5 quarts extra. If it becomes an issue I'll go to a drysump. Mike

Merry Xmas everyone! RSICARD, I bought them used from jnjdragracing. I'll take a look and see if the units have partnumbers posted. Tedder and Rags seem to think I'm gonna have interference, but this partucular setup doesn't hang low like my S&S did and they seem to hug the motor very closely. The number 1 branch actually separares from the rest of the header assembly so you can install it after. I'm not sure where the interference will come into play, but as soon as I have my oil pan issue resolved, we're going to find out what the hell they're talking about. Really have high hopes for these headers. Mike

Yea, I turned a radiator into a "U" shape at Summit Point Raceway when I struck a groundhog at over 135mph in the Porsche Turbo. About $5K worth of damage. Mike

I used "Reliable" for my GT3 shipping last May and it was a disaster. No, the car wasn't damaged. No they didn't hurt my baby. BUT they promised it in 7 days and I got it in 17. Was horrible. What was worse, was the car was supposed to come to Va. but was shipped to Michigan to "wait" for more cars. Car was supposed to be kept inside during its travels. Came to me covered in pine needles. Sure, if it's a honda civic, but a fairly rare Porsche 2004 GT3? That wasn't the "deal" but it ended up being "reality". $2000 wasted. If you have expectation for delivery, I'd consider your options. Mike

Well I've got the old gal loaded back into the Bay for the loading up of the newly freshened 383. We'll find out how much I have to modify the hooker headers soon enough.

And again, I hope you're both wrong. Otherwise, I'll be bolting these block huggers back up. The one thing I've ALWAYS hated about the Datsun swap is the LACK OF F'N HEADER OPTIONS for guys who actually track their friggin' cars... It's such a compromise over and over... Pan clearance, header clearance, heat issues... Goddamn I don't know why we do this to ourselves...Ugh.