Mikelly

It isn't hard, but you need a tubing flare tool and brake line bending tool if you plan to mount it anywhere other than the firewall next to the brake line distribution block, below and to the right of the old throttle linkage pivot. If you put it there, you don't need anything special, just bend the factory line by hand and use the adapters for the metric threads! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Im using 15X8 inch wheels with Zero offset and I run 265-5015 out back and 225-50 up front. I am not using coil overs and I have flares on the rear. I have no clearance issues. Also, the car pulls well over a G. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

OK, here is where I come from on this issue... Remember Ron Stoy from Zcar.com? Everyone knows how much I simply love him, right? Well three years ago I was him...I had his same views about the whole conversion thing.... You know why? I drove one of those shoddy, poorly done death traps that someone with no engineering, little skills, and less cash threw together....It scared me to death. Now, I don't want to lend to the negative opinions about doing a well converted Zcar, and certainly all the billet and aeroquip fittings, braided lines, T56, race suspension, brake upgrades, and other mods are not necessary. However, somewhere else I posted the thought that I personally would not do a V8 conversion for less than 300HP, and my thoughts are that 300HP deserve more attention to brakes and suspension mods, including upgrades to the chassis in the form of serious stiffening. Reason I touch on that is I have seen several Zcars suffer from tears in the shock towers and frame rails from moderately modified Zcars that were not properly stiffened in the chassis. Now think about this... The Zcar is known to suffer from rotting frame rails and floor boards... So if you have to replace those before doing a serious upgrade (And most do...), you can easily pay a shop up top $1000 for matterials and installation. Much cheaper if you do it yourself, although not everyone owns a welder and has the skills to use one. Now, say the car you use is of the "Stock" nature. Now you probably have rotting bushings, ball joints, tie rods and blown struts... and leaking wheel cyclinders, a stuck booster, and a shot master cylinder.... all the sudden the factory replacement parts to get the car back to factory spec are upwards of $1000... you are $2000 in the hole and you haven't spent a dime on the V8 conversion. OK, now you buy the JTR book and kit...$350. Buy a junkyard motor and say you rebuild it...just bearings, rings and have the valve seats check and the head gone over... If you do all the basics yourself... You will probably have $800-1000 in the motor... Now coupled with the cheapest trans you can go with and making the driveshaft... You probably have another $800 in everything including the shifter... Most likely you will need accesories and other doodads like a radiator and fuel pump...You will have another $1000 in extras guaranteed... it always snowballs (Right Pete?) and then you are looking at a basically stock suspension and stock braking Z with about 200HP for about $6000.....plus the cost of the car... For that money, and a little bit more, you could make the mods people recommend here on this board... get 300+HP with the wonders of modern brakes and suspension and better trans options... I personaly think that a clean Z and $10000 is a good starting point for a well done V8 Conversion and I'd bet that most Mild v8 conversions are in that ball park. Mine is crazy expensive and my CC bill reminds me every month, but it doesn't have to be crazy like mine to get well into the many thousands of dollars..... Just my .02! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

And I'd like to chime in here for a moment as one of the moderators... Everyone knows that I left Zcar.com for the negative comments that were eminating from that board... Lets keep the tones civil guys.. I don't care what you do with the car as long as it is safe. If you can make a leafspring suspension work on your car for your application CorZette...GO FOR IT! As for the comment about giving it to someone who "Deserves it".....I'm gonna say this once... We do not tell people what they "SHOULD DO HERE"....Period. We offer advice and information only. Lets keep it mature and responsible guys.... We have a bigger enemy out there.... Mike Kelly ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I have to agree with SpencZ here. Don't go cheap on this one. I'd also encourage everyone doing a V8 conversion to do two things when considering any modification to their cars: Be patiant, and do it right. I don't care if you use proven factory parts or Gee Whiz high tech polished gucci stuff, take your time, learn form our mistakes and do the conversion justice in the safest means possible. There are a number of guys on this board who have proven that it doesn't take a truck load of money to do these conversions safely and effectively with over the counter factory parts. Not only will you have a better, safer package, you will also dispell the horrible myth that a V8 conversion is a bad thing. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I don't think you will have room for leaf springs. Just throwing a solid axle under there will take up some room if you don't do a four link conversion... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I cut the bushing off at the top (Between the mustach bar and the unibody) and removed the big flat washer. The mustach bar sits against the subframe. It works fairly well. I think I picked up some buziness, but the drive pinion angle seems to be correct. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I did the JTR conversion and it was a little tricky. Had to re-adjust the hood a bunch of times so it wouldn't open on its own under presure... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Mine is in the back right, behind the rear fenderwell. It is secured with 3/8th inch threadall, nylon impregnated nuts, and fender washers. I use 1/0 wire all the way up, and bulkhead mounts on the rear deck to run the battery cables to. My kit was a Summit kit, but I upgraded the wired and made sure to fabricate a bracket to bolt the box in place. I welded nothing. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Bottom line is that they (EPA) have no interest in cleaning up the air. They are trying to regulate in the name of generating revenue for uncle sam. That is the exact reason I got antique tags and one reason I think Va. changes their ruling on the antique plate. I can drive my car any time, anywhere up to 250 miles from home. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Pete Paraska (Moderator at large) has a web page in the Links department that shows very good example of how to do subframes. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I used the 15 gallon unit, and I would recommend using the Triangle Engineerring unit with the Oring fittings. I didn't and had to have the RCI cell shot peened to cure a pesky leak. The dimensions of the 15gallon unit make it a perfect fit between to Flowmaster mufflers laid flat. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

11:1 was also what I was told when looking into putting a procharger on my truck. You can really hurt a motor once you get into anything above 10:5 to one on pump gas... The poor grade fuel we run here in the states doesn't fare well. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Most of us have upgraded to weld in units, cutting out the existing stamped weld units that came in the car. Go to Pete's webpage in the links category to see a good example of a well done subframe install! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Scott, Check under the chassis and suspension section for ideas on tube chassis work and also check with SpencZ or go to his website and see the work he is doing on his. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

A four point bar mounts two feet per side behind the driver on the rear wheel wells. This provides nothing more than a "Hoop" over the head. Now, a 6 point bar moves two more points forward ofthe driver, sometimes in a "Overhead" hoop, and sometimes just in a low "Side running" footer that extend forward with no front hoop. These lower side running footers are more for drag applications. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I'm running an RCI aluminum cell, mounted where the spare tire well was. In my tech article you can see how it hangs. You want to center it giving plenty of room on either side for the dual exhaust outlets. Mine is mounted with 3/8th threadall and nylon impregnated nuts. It is solid. I also use 1/2 inch and 8AN line and fittings all the way up to the carb. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Depends on where you live and what the regs are in your state. I could have left my car with regular tags and state inspections and passed with little issue, but why bother going through the hoops and having to deal with the headaches and added expense... My one-time registration fee of $12 negates ever registering again, no property tax and no state inspections... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I do use the aluminum mount and I have had no issues with vibration. One thing I did on the other car that I didn't do on this one was install a 5/8th piece of heater hose split open and used as a dampener between the mount and diff. for vibration. I didn't do it with this build because I didn't feel that it added anything as far as damping vibrations. I was right, as I have experienced no additional vibration or noise. As for the other problems you are having, take your car to that guy at the Zshop and put him in the passenger or drivers seat and have him experience it. He may be able to better understand the problem you re having if you are there with the car giving an example of the problem. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

http://cyber2.virtualrep.com/centerforce/centerforceflywheelresults.tpl You got the right unit if your block is a 86 and newer... go to the link and check for your application... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

I used 700173 for my two piece rear main 400 crank. Your PN might be different if you are using the 350 Crank. But, yes, that sucker is the absolute largest and heaviest flywheel I have ever laid hands on. I weighed it and it came in at 42#!!!! H-E-A-V-Y!!!!! and thick! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Those headers are sweet. My buddies 1 3/4 inch cast aluminum manifolds are awesome. I'd go with those if I had it to do over... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Pete, Per JTR I'm running the Oil presure switch. But I need to get a relay for the fuel pump. What do you recommend? I'm gonna dig thru the JTR manual tonight, pick up some 10 Guage wire and rewire the whole system after I get the voltage numbers off the switch and pump. Anyone need to buy a pump and regulator ??? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Sounds like you have a problem there... I am currently running Redline Synthetic in my differential and it has been in two different cars with this setup. I'm running the LSD W/3.7 gears from the 88Tzx. Mine is also running the shallow R200 diff cover, which isn't the best unit. I'm interested in Diff coolers and pumps for cooling these units. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk

Room under the car is a big issue as is avoiding contact with the steering linkage. I have a solution though and I would love to try this myself... Buddy of mine just bought a set of Sanderson Aluminum 1 3/4 inch Manifolds and has them on his 355 SBC, stuffed into a 55 chevy with power steering (which caused a similar steering box clearance problem). They are a work of art. 1/2inch flanges and you don't need to use two of the bolts. Best of all is that they go from 1 3/4 into a 3inch collector and are equal length....super nice! They are still tight enough in so clearances aren't an issue. If I ever have header issues, this is the route I will go! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk