Mikelly

You don't want to use the shop I went with. They lost my parts, my order, and my number... Had to go into the place and sort it all out... Then they didn't cut me any break or apologize for the mess... It's called drivelinespecialist.com/ I would go with http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/ or someone else. Mike

From post #18 on the first page of that build link... "There are a lot of guys out there with turbo v8 datsuns...and most of them are incredibly slow. I don't know if its bad driving, bad setup, or just bad luck but it has really disturbed me. Troll around hybridz.org for a bit and you will see what I mean." Welcome... Mike

Looks like a shift fork pad piece.

Driveshaft ordered today from a shop in Lorton Va.!!

Got a cool shift knob and installed. PIcs on FB. Also managed to address a couple of other small issues... Getting close. Meeting with Matt SHue next week to go over a good base file for the car.

With the long-tube group purschase headers I still had to notch the mounts to slide them back far enough to clear my drysump pump, and still give room not to hit the headers. The biggest benefit to them is they are VERY adjustable, atleast the weld on kit was...

Guys, word of caution when assembling the inner CV axle components. I stripped one of the inner threads for of the 3/8th bolt that holds the unit together on the stub. I'll have to remove and add a helicoil to the offended hole. It's really easy to mis-align these, as the boot presses on the socket/tool when installing the bolts... "Thought" i had hand started all of them but I missed one, clearly. Mike

Sonofagun... A year ago that was not an option.

The only design they have for the Zcar is a universal hotrod setup that requires the pedistal portion to be welded to the frame. check my build thread for some pics of the install. Mike

Sounds like you found your solution...

FACT - I have the dirty Dingos on my car and DID NOT touch the steering rack. I did take the pinch nut off the steering ROD, ground smooth and welded that shaft to the spline. I had to do this to get my drysump and other parts to work properly with the headers from the group purchase. They work well, but you have to be careful when welding the mount pedestals to the frame rails because the rails of the Datsun are so thin. You can check my build thread for pics. Mike

What about the availability of parts/gear ratios on the R200? That's what drove me to the 8.8 conversion. I wanted to make sure if I want to swap to a shorter or taller gearset or I want a more capable LSD unit, they were available. The biggest frustration all the R200 crowd have is that "parts" issue. Are they out there? Sure. WHERE? I can go down the street and get crush sleeves and gears for the 8.8 the local speed shop, or FOMOCO or order online from Jegs/Summit/nameyourpartshaus! The axles seem beefy, but as you said, you never know until you really put them to the test. Time will tell, but the geometry of this setup makes me happier than with the R200/Q45. Looking at the pics from my old setup compared to this new setup you don't see as extreme an angle for the axles to rotate through. Sure CVs are supposed to compensate for bind, but how much before you start to stress the pockets of the joint? Is that shock being transferred straight to the outer stub and an off angle? Dunno... Just things I think about when looking at both setups! Mike

Well we're getting down to the nut cuttin' as Richard Rollins would say. Or so I thought... Keep reading below...

Yea my comments were more focused on the width of the tunnel issues.

Managed to get one of the axles swapped over to the 15 5/8th centers instead of the 16 1/4 units. This helps me fit wider tires, adjust more suspension parts (I have three adjustment points) and just works better for my setup. I still need to work out returning these to MOOREParts...

l only had a short amount of time this evening, but I managed to swap one of the axle centers in short order. If any of you guys decide to go this route, get an extra FOUR axle bands to replace all the inners. You can leave the outter bands on the boots and in place. No issues with pulling the axles out through the inner boot end.

I got the shorter axles in and will be swapping them out, tomorrow if possible. Will let you guys know how it works... keep in mind I am doing this for the wheel/tire/suspension adjustment that my particular setup requires... You're mileage may vary!

I would go with these over the Dirty Dingo units I bought... and may eventually swap to them...

T56 Magnum will work just. It's a better trans overall and one I probably should have gone with. That said, You will have to massage the trans tunnel, just like with any T56 install. Mike

Nothing significant

335s on an 18 inch wheel. I'll be running Hoosiers. Keep in mind, I have traction control in my standalone and we plan to use it. Mike

So here is more info...Measuring Points CENTER of mount hole to CENTER of mount hole Stock control arm - 14 5/8th AZC Arm BEFORE moving 1/2 inch spacer outboard of hub - 14 3/16th AZC Arm AFTER moving 1/2 inch spacer outboard of hub and extending Heim to 3/4inch thread showing - 14 1/2 I'd feel better with the spacer back behind the hub an the additional adjustment in the control arm since I do plan to squeeze a wider tire under the car as we shake her down. Mike

Will, I can try to pull together measurements this week and get them to you. Here is my setup: 1. Arizona Zcar Cromoly control arms (They old style round metal design.) 2. Arizona Zcar Camber plates welded in. 3. Koni 8610s. I have the camber plate maxed now to POSITIVE CAMBER. I will adjust the strut bolts so they are loose and move that spacer outboard. I still think I'm going to need more adjustment. for my car and its purpose. Also, Although I understand your logic in the 5/8th bolt scenario, my concern, most likely pulling 2Gs in corners for 30 minutes at a time, that .629 movement will be an issue, again, for my specific needs. I'm going to swap out the heim joints for the proper ID eyelet 5/8th heim joints, but for me that is a reasonable option. for anyone with high HP, ultra wide and sticky tires in a chassis that WILL pull high g-loads, this could be a problem if they are running the stock arms. That attachment point is a tight tolerance from Nissan for a reason. It's also why they are countless threads discussing stuck spindle pins and how to extract them. I am probably at the extreme end of the "USE" scale, which is why I'm probably being more picky than some. But we're talking about a car that will see 175mph and extremely high corner speeds. This is not a "built to the potential of use" scenario. The car will see these loads. It's why I brought up the powder coating issues at the mount points for the brakes and wheel hubs as a very real issue to contend with. Mike

Here is what I'm running into: That is how far I have to extend the Heim Joint to get the bolt thru the spindle. That's 1 5/16ths out of 1 3/4 rod length.

I verified this by installing them on the car with the control arms preset at my previous alignment last night... It was the last phase of the rear diff that I hadn't done because I still havent resolved the issue with the longer bolt not going thru properly for a proper fit with 16mm OEM sized bolt. The heim joints will be forced to extend well beyond 50% just to get everything to bolt up. I did a quick search of the interwebs and it appears mooreparts is THE cheapest, even with their expensive shipping... Bleh.. Oh well...