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The last picture has nothing to do with the dash lights/ headlights - it is the switch for the fan. It should have four positions that it clicks into.

I got a set of headlights from ebay for something like $45. They are a plastic housing with a removable bulb and dust seal. They came with blue xenon bulbs. This would be a great upgrade IF and ONLY IF you get good bulbs. I got **** bulbs that, while they look nice and are fairly bright, only seem to project light forward. While cornering at night, you can't see where you're going because the beam is focused towards the front of the car instead of spreading out to the sides, as well. I may upgrade to some good bulbs or I may just go back to yellow glass sealed headlights.

Okay.. this is bad... now I'm suddenly in the market for a set of brakes... Mike(scca) how would this 240SX rear brake / 5lug setup work with your Stage II front brake / 5lug setup? Would the balance be okay or would the front be too much for the rears - would I need something more beefy? I'd prefer to have the brakes balance pretty well before installing the balance regulator. $255 for a rear 5lug conversion? I'm sold... Time to start shopping for some calipers

I'd just like to thank Tim240Z very, very much for the inspiration to do this installation (i'm a poet and I don't know it). I followed his pictures, dimentions, and ideas to the tee and came out with a very clean install. Check it out: http://homepage.mac.com/nion/PhotoAlbum7.html The luggage sraps do a great job of holding the cell in. The one thing I may do in the future is set up a hinged floor with another hinged lid for the fuel filler. But since I'm probably not going to weld the box in permanently, I think I may just stick with the original spare tire well cover for a while.

The front air dam will look like this when you get it. My personaly opinion is that it's okay to drive around unpainted for a while as long as you do the proper procedures before painting it (you can find them on Xenon's website). I would go to Classic Datsun for the ZG flares (I'm going to be getting some from them too. Les is a nice guy.) YOu can get their Z432 style spoiler at the same time. I'm getting that one eventually.

Evan (purple 240Z) has used them with much success and admiration. Ross C. (modernmotorsports.com) can sell you a set for something like $220. In my opinion, if racing Porsche 911s can use them (if you ever look in an issue of Porsche Panorama Magazine, you'll see tons of ads) they're safe to use on your Datsun.

Do it like this! Follow you original idea. FWD car, FWD V8. V8 Mini

Mike, I am starting to look at your brake upgrade packages. I was considering the Stage II 5lug front package. What would you recommend to compliment this for the rear? I understand you have a new kit that uses 240SX calipers? Or would the Stage II Outlaw rear kit be better? I'd rather have the e-brake capability if possible without any spot calipers.

Looks like a guy who likes/restores Porsches. If you're looking for a well detailed, good-running car, this is probably a very good bet. Hopefully you can talk him down - find as many flaws as you can

Hmm.. yech. I personally love the 240Z taillights and would never think of changing them (except to install some brand new Euros..). I have always felt that the 240Z taillights were light years ahead of any other car's of the era. Nissan ruined all the taillights inbetween the 240Z and the Z32 300ZX. I never have figured out why the 260/280Zs got those nasty separated reverse lights.

All I can say is.. bling bling I spent a hell of a lot more on this setup than I would have if I had just bought a BG kit for fifty bucks, but that just wouldn't be trick now would it? My good ideas always turn out to be expensive My fuel line

I'm pretty sure the NA wheels are 8" front 8" rear and the TT wheels are 8" front 9" rear. Can anyone verify this?

You've got a front air dam, just hook up a hose to the vents in it (which are actually meant to be brake ducts) and there you go...

Just yank it. Keep taking parts off and plugging holes until the car won't start, then put some stuff back on Just kidding. It's not a big deal, though. It's pretty straightforward. I did it to my 2.4 in my '71.

I'm pretty sure I'll be doing a 5-lug swap sometime in the next couple of years and I'm just curious whether or not the 9-inch TT rears will fit or if the NA set is the biggest I can go on stock fenders. How's the offset on these wheels? I'm going to do ZG flares so I wonder what kind of widths/offsets would fill those up nicely and take up the maximum amount of room available between the coilover and the flare.

Hmm, they both say 69+ Camaro/Nova and they appear to be the same part - at least, very very similar. I managed to get some of those header brackets to work today but I don't think I actually like them much.. your setup looks much, much cleaner and the header brackets interfere with my #1 cylinder spark plug wire (not much extra length on that one to go around the bracket). I think I'll just return the brackets to Kragen and bid on the cheaper one from eBay and see what happens What pulleys should I order to get the correct spacing? I see that yours have three grooves.. I'd like to have the minimum number possible, just because it's much cleaner that way. Thanks a bunch for the pictures again, and the help - i appreciate it a lot.

I can answer one question - I'd go with the JTR kit. I think most everyone agrees that it is the most well-thought out design with the most potential for performance, and the manual is THE MANUAL. I would especially go this route if you're going to be doing the swap over time and buying parts slowly - in the long run, i think you'll be happier despite the price over Scarab. There are plenty of happy Scarab drivers around and one or two MSA swapped cars - John's Cars is pretty much a no-no, from what I hear, as far as price and customer service go. My vote is for the JTR kit.

is THIS what it looks like? that's way too much but if that's what it looks like I'll know what to look for at the junkyard. EDIT: I found another one here, what do you think? correct one? DavyZ, I hate to bother you but could you send those pictures over again? They somehow got lost, I had them on my PC but couldn't get them onto my Mac (main machine) and the PC's mail program is dead (typical).

Those are pretty popular for the FD3S. Let us see what the finished product looks like.

Check it out:

The easiest thing may actually be to install some polyurethane Energy Suspension bushings. Instead of having to press the outer bushing shell out of the mustache bar, you just remove all the rubber (doesn't take long, just cut it out and use a torch to heat around the bar until you can scrape off every scrap of rubber) and press in the poly bushings with a regular vise. they'll be better in the long run anyway.

20-21 inches, huh? I would have thought it was more than that. Looks like you're saving me a few bucks I was going to do the $8 bike cable setup but.. ehhh.. it's too much of a PITA. I've had this bike cable sitting attached to the gas linkages and have yet to figure out a way to attach it to the carb so I think I'll go for something that doesn't look totally rigged and get a hi-tech style Lokar. I wonder if it matters that I'm using a Holley carb instead of Edelbrock? Also, what throttle bracket did you get for the cable?

dumb, I know.. everybody says to use the Lokar cable but nobody says which length to get I guess I need the 36" and cut to the proper length?

It's been done (seen a carb'd 383 powered 2+2 in person on several occasions) but IMO... save a good car for a good engine... put the V8 into an older Z.

The 3.9 is from a naturally aspirated 280ZX to make up for the lack of a turbo. I think it is '79, if I remember correctly - it's written on my diff in yellow junkyard pen, so I can crawl underneath to check if you need me to.