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Those almost look like OZ Saturns. It's Evan's car, so they're probably FWD (honda) pattern and spacing, with his FWD adapters.

oh, lame... why not? do they just not feel that the 4lug pattern is strong enough for a wide wheel?

here's an idea of what they might look like on my car (older picture, pre-air dam) looks all right to me..

I agree, I wouldn't call a 375 hp motor highly modified The Muncie 4-speeds work best with an old school Scarab style conversion (motor sitting forward), which is generally agreed on to be less ideal than the more modern, balanced JTR conversion. With the JTR setup a T-5 or T56 will exit the stock tranny hole. If you are going to run an auto, any TH350 or 700R4 will work fine. I have a T5 in mine. The R200 is totally solid to 500+ hp. The weak link is in the halfshaft u-joints. There is a member here that runs deep into the nines with a standard R200 but breaks halfshaft u-joints right and left (ever run, I hear). I wouldn't recommend doing a solid rear axle swap, ESPECIALLY if you don't have the time/money/patience/knowledge/etc. I would definitely not want to pay a shop to do something like that because they will give you the screw job and charge extra for the vaseline. . . I'm sure it would be big bucks no matter what you do to have a shop do work for you.

Mike, I really wish I had $900 for your kit, because I really like it, but I don't I need to save for some brakes so I don't kill myself.

WOW WOW WOW, now you guys are giving me bad ideas... That is the most beautiful Centerline wheel I have ever seen! I've never been big on them at all but I think those would look great on a Z-car. I'm planning on doing some ZG style fender flares and a set of those would look GOOD under them. 17x9.5, peace... My friend Joel just got his wheels for his 510 today after an eight-month wait. They're Racing Hart C-2s, custom drilled for the Datsun pattern, ordered from Japan. 17x8 front, 17x9 rear, $510 EACH. yikes!

It appears to replace the stock upper shock bushing - the thing with the three studs. It's polyurethane. If anyone knows how these work or if they're really worth $99 a pair let me know - I'm interested.

I'm going to be running 3:90s... just because that's what I bought for my L24... we'll see what happens with the 350

They're close, but no cigar. If they fit... man, wouldn't it be easy to pick wheels? I'm wondering if it would be possible to re-drill the hubs for the Mustang 4lug pattern.

Here ya go. http://www.gatewayzclub.com/articles/darius/

How much for those adapters, Evan?

I have no idea how this is supposed to work. All right, with a 4bbl Holley with a dual-inlet fuel line, where's the return? I'm using a Holley Blue with the regulator. Does one side of the regulator go to the carb and the other back to the tank as the return, or what? My fuel cell has an inlet for the return but there's nothing in my instructions for the carb or the fuel pump about return lines. It must have a return because the carb can't be fed with a constant amount of fuel all the time. Help!

Davy, Is this what it looks like? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601985167&r=0&t=0

I've been using a different photo of that same engine bay for my desktop for several weeks. Beautiful

Ross, you're using the kit I wanted to use (or similar). In an early Z with the JTR kit it hits the motor mount, as Mike mentioned, and it also hits the steering rack. I will take a look for a smog pump bracket, thanks DavyZ. Any other suggestions?

I want some that look good (won't distract from the rest of my engine), are compact, and won't mount the alternator five feet above the valve cover or somewhere in the vicinity of the driver's side front tire. Price is a concern ($30 or less, so no heim-jointed March brackets for me). My setup is just an SBC with a Weiand SWP and I'm going to be running single-groove pulleys. I CAN NOT use header brackets due to the tight curve of my Flowtech headers and lack of bolt clearance (can't back the bolt out enough to mount the bracket). Anywhere online I can get a kit, or is there a shop you guys can recommend me to? I know it's sort of a newbie question but I tried one kit that looked good and it wasn't. I bought a header-mount setup and like I said, that's no good. Mounting my alternator is the last thing I need to do in the engine bay before I can get it all wired and ready to go. Please help!

They really modernize and complete the interior. Check out some shots of my Phantoms here

You are supposed to fill the space between the strut housing and strut cartridge with oil. Supposedly this works as a heatsink, transferring heat to the strut, which transfers it to the atmosphere, keeping the strut cartridge cool and keeping its action consistent.

Nobody's replied - I'm surprised. Great looking car, Miles! Clean looking swap. HEY everyone, finally, pictures of the MSA motor mounts! Congratulations and here's to making further progress

Maybe somebody can play with DD2000 and let me know what my HP levels will be because I have no idea! Here are my specs: High-nickel 350, 2-bolt main stock crank and rods forged pistons, not even sure of the compression, though not very high (low 9:1) Schneider cam, 440 lift / 270 duration on both intake and exhaust (this is sort of funny - my friend Kory works there and got me my cam - but I bet anything that he and Curt [fastest street car in San Diego, also works there] gave me a different spec sheet than the cam they gave me - I bet it's burly) Crower 1.5 roller rockers Schneider 6700 valve springs Edelbrock dual-plane RPM Air-Gap intake manifold Holley 4150 double-pumper, 650 CFM, mechanical secondaries, mechanical choke Flowtech ceramic-coated block hugger headers If you need to know the heads, I couldn't really tell you - but I could take pictures of them. I'm sure someone could identify them. The motor builder said they were decent for older iron heads, though they're not double humpers

I think there was one of these in a 510 on eBay a little while back (Olds Fireball V8 or something?) Looked like a fun little car.

I think the RE Amemiya RX7 is pretty bitchin' actually

It depends on how long they are. When I got the car I had one stud on the rear that was 1/4" shorter than the rest (don't ask me, the PO must have changed it). I found one that was correct and managed to replace it. If you're installing huge studs, then you will have to remove the stub axle.

I thought it was 2004R, not 200R4... I know one with the 4R designation exists because it is what is bolted behind 3.8 Grand National motors... I think i have heard of them being used behind SBCs though.

Oh, man, I'm sorry - you're going through the same thing I just went through a couple of weeks ago I had the 3/4 Howe MC and was informed that it was too small. Well, there's $54 down the drain... I got a 7/8 and it is great. Just plugged it in, put in new fluid, and worked out the bubbles. It didn't really even need to be bled, I just hooked it up and worked the clutch pedal and it quickly got hard. Now I have a great pedal and plenty of clutch fork movement. Anyone want to buy a barely-used 3/4 Howe MC?