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Dood, Mike, you've gotta get those mirrors so your car can look like this just kidding. Those are some nice mirrors though!

This is pretty cool... All I'd ever seen was a diagram of what Spintech mufflers look like inside. Here's a cutaway view from the Dr. Gas website. Pretty cool... The ones I want are only $80 each or so.. about the same as some Flowmasters, I think. 2.5 in 2.5 out, offset outlet. I am thinking about X-pipes... any that you guys would reccommend? The only ones I have really read anything about are Dr. Gas and MAC. I noticed something - nobody seems to know what Spintech mufflers are except here on this board! I talked to a guy with a set of them on his V6 Ranger and man, did they sound GOOD! Not boomy or raspy like most Rangers, but with a really rich burble. I can't wait to hear what a set will sound like coming out of my motor!

Boy am I glad I'm running autometer gauges with their own sender Only ten or so dollars more and you get a new gauge to go with your adapter fitting

I would like to have a true dual exhaust with a couple of Spintechs and an X-pipe but I may end up going with a Flowmaster Y-collector, like you mentioned, and a 3-in-3-out Spintech just because it would cost so much less. Yes, the exhaust flows in from the right and is swirled, passing out through the holes in the vertical 'tubes' and out through the left. They get really good reviews and are still sort of unknown. http://www.spintechmufflers.com

This should probably go somewhere like the Ignition board but I figure more people will see it here and besides.. it has to do with how the JTR manual says to do the swap... JTR says to hook up the two black/white wires to the TACH and BAT terminals on the HEI dist. I'm using an Autometer 5" in-dash tach, which has three wires: 12v+, ground, and sender (green). The stock tach has the red-white and black-white sender wires. I'm thinking that I'm just going to use the stock connector, soldered to the black/red Autometer wires and hook it up to the wiring harness. Easy enough, but now what to do about the sender? I'm thinking that I could just run it through the firewall straight to the distributor, like they say, but then what hooks up to the BAT terminal? One of the black/white wires? What about the other one? The thing is, the stock sender wire has a positive side and a negative side and it loops around a resistor thing. So there's two connections to the wiring harness. The autometer just has one sender wire. If I can hook it up to the stock wiring harness, that'd be great - but which side should it be, positive or negative? What did you all do here? Am I just being really confusing? Thanks

I got three Prelude seats from a Datsun 510/Roadster guy for $200. one driver and two passenger - the spare passenger seat is in my garage. Comfy place to read my JTR manual But really, I thought they were worth the price. If I had to do it again I'd look for some seats that are a little easier to install.

You're in luck. I have some of these in my car. At least I believe that they are from a '92, or that general time period. I don't have any pictures of them on the net, really, though I can take some any time. Let me tell you that they were an unbelievable PITA to work with. I ended up using my dad's experience with fiberglass (he built an experimental plane from scratch) to make some fat fiberglass mounts to adapt the Prelude seats to the 240Z seat sliders. Suffice to say that there must be easier solutions. In any case, they are really great. They sit a bit higher than the old seats the way I have them mounted but are very comfortable. The driver's seat has adjustable everything - tilt with memory, lumbar support, and even adjustable side bolsters (way cool!) If you want to give them a shot go ahead, and I can probably provide you with pictures of all the brackets my dad made. But there are definitely easier seats to adapt to the Z.

There's a carbed 383-powered Z32 2+2 out here. Interesting but not my cup of tea. Seems like a downgrade to me. Probably because my first real automobile love was the Z32. Better than the NA motor but I'd rather have a clean TT.

kc6wfs, How did you get those brackets to fit on your headers? Your situation is probably different from mine, but with my Flowtech headers there is no room to back out one of the header bolts, #1 cylinder. http://homepage.mac.com/nion/.Pictures/V8Z%20Project/v8zheader.jpg As you can see, I had to use bolts in those locations instead of the ARP studs because they were too long. I almost have to remove the headers completely to take out the two bolts because they just back out into the header tube. Can anyone reccommend to me a good-looking alternator bracket kit that I can actually use with no problems?

I'm also curious whether or not it'd be possible to order ONLY the main roll hoop from S&W (since that's the only thing everyone agrees on actually fitting right out of the box) and buying some lengths of tubing locally. We've got a tubing bender, tubing notcher, and a good welder in my auto shop class. Last year we made a 14+ point cage for our drag race Camaro from scratch. Has anyone done this or do you have to order S&W's entire kit?

It's been done... I've seen pictures somewhere of a VG30 swap, a VG30DET swap, and I know Greg Dupree's done a VG30DETT swap in his 280Z. From what I've seen (videos) and from what people have said, his car hauls balls. He himself says that the swap was an enormous PITA, even though he's one of the best of the best Z32 tuners.

Hey guys, the last thing I really need to get my motor complete is a set of pulleys. I'm running a Weiand short water pump and I guess my alternator will be mounted in the standard way (the low-mount kit i bought interferes with the steering rack). I've never put together an SBC before so I don't know how many grooves to get in each pulley. I'm not running A/C or power steering, just the alternator and water pump. THanks.

I know that $549 is kinda expensive and I could probably have one made up and welded for a bit more. I'm just curious whether or not anybody's gone with this kit and what they think. How does it fit? Everything go together okay as opposed to S&W kit? That sort of thing. I couldn't find anything in the archives. Pictures would be great also. Thanks a lot.

My understanding is that it is legal in california for off-highway use. I have heard lots of different 'facts' on this and am not sure whether or not it's legal to even have in your car. My personal belief is that it is legal to have in your vehicle on the roads as long as it is properly mounted and is NOT hooked up. Though cops seem to think that nitrous is a highly flammable and dangerous gas, and I've heard that most will give you a ticket if they catch you with it, hooked up or not. I even saw something official from the state a while back about nitrous in which it was referred to as flammable. Totally absurd considering that it's just an oxidant. The only danger is from the pressure of the bottle. And I'm sure you've seen trucks from welding supply places driving around with a dozen huge compressed gas tanks in the back. Like that's less dangerous than a nitrous bottle. So, in general, I think it's legal to have as long as it's not hooked up. There are plenty of places to have the bottles filled. You'll probably still get flak from the law for having a bottle because it tags you instantly as a racer (not that rumbling around in a V8Z doesn't )

I wonder why more guys don't use early Mustang wheels? There've got to be some good aftermarket ones, right? Are the offsets anywhere near being correct?

My car was a 200k miler with a complete interior (bad seats, cracked dash) a good-running original 2.4 motor, a totally solid body, etc. I went back and forth several times, debating whether or not to V8 it. At first I wanted to, but then I worked on it, pulled all the smog equipment and added headers and exhaust. I was happy with it and was convinced that I didn't want a V8 anymore. I even considered getting a license plate that said STR8SIX. In the end, I was no longer happy with six cylinders and found an RB swap to be too expensive and not really viable in the states. So I went V8 and so far I'm glad I did. I've been getting lots of positive comments from everybody I know, including my friends that aren't into domestic performance. My car was in great shape but not great enough shape that it couldn't be 'improved'.... In your case, since you've already got a V8Z, I'd keep your new, nice original Z as a runner as it is.

Can anyone clarify what the extended hole thingies are in the flanges? (just above the temp. sender) throttle return spring hookup?

I've got the the Flowtech ceramic coated headers and the clearance is great all around. As you can see, if the sender in the head was rotated a little more it wouldn't clear the header but as it is there's plenty of room. There's probably over a half inch of clearance by the steering shaft. Overall they appear to be a pretty quality product and the price is right.

How do forged pistons, aluminum 1.5 rollers, and Schneider valve springs (6700 rated) sound? I'm hoping to get at least 6500 reliable RPM out of my motor but I won't push it if I have any doubt.

Something around 9,000 bucks seems reasonable at the moment, including the car. (1,900)

I dropped by Schneider Racing Cams today just as they were closing and was flipping through one of the magazines. I stumbled across an article on this car. Unfortunately, they were just closing, so I didn't really get to read it or check out the specs. Awesome car tho. If I can I'll borrow that issue for a day.

The newer Fox mustang 4lug wheels are 4.5. they don't fit the stock Datsun hubs, close but not quite. Aren't Datsun 4x100mm? will this interchange with 4x4.25"?

It's at least 2000 HP, I'm sure.. Somehow a turbo that size doesn't seem feasible to me.. Just look at the size of the exhaust downpipe, it's like 6" or so. How can you get enough exhaust velocity to spool a turbo that size up and make enough power? Sure, flow is good, but don't turbos rely on the venturi effect to get the gases sped up and into the turbine? I was thinking about this a bit last night. What do you guys think?

Are these wheels for the older 64.5-66 or 67 Stangs? Someone said that the bolt pattern was the same for those early years as the stock Datsun pattern recently... How much? What style? Where from? If you get some tell us how they fit

God, I've wanted that kit for a while now. Drooool... I think it's a little showy for my purposes though. I'd probably go with something from MikeSCCA if I had the cash for any brake upgrade at all