SSflyer

Suggestion..... For driving lights you might want to look at the ones from a 99-02 Camaro. They're about 2-1/2" - 3" in diameter, and it looks like they would fit nicely into the openings on the Type III airdam. I used them on my car with a Type II and the stock Chevy mounting brackets were a perfect fit for spacing and placement. I wired them to the no longer used rear defroster switch on the console. You'll have to do some homework on the whole circuit, but it can be done.

I saw an LS1 240SX at Extreme Motorsports in Tempe when my car was in for a dyno tune. The workmanship wasn't the best I've ever seen, but in general it looked like a factory installation. Plenty of room for the engine, and I heard it was wicked fast.

I have a beautiful Yamaha Warrior 1700 for sale......

My car ran a 12.82 @ 111mph on a 106 degree night last summer. It was the first pass for the car and I actually babied it off the line. It has a 2001 engine (347rwhp, 356tq) with a 6-spd, GM HotCam, long tubes, and 3:70 gears. No burnout and a 60ft of over 2.5 seconds. LOTS of room for improvement, but not too bad for a hot night with a below average driver...

What I really want to get is an ED209 like in the RoboCop movies. "PLEASE REMOVE YOUR VEHICLE! YOU HAVE 5 SECONDS TO COMPLY!"

What is up with people and parking lots? I'm very anal about my cars and I know it, so I park wayyyy out in the back of the lot at work, just so I don't get door dings and such. No other cars around for 50 yards. Then one day I come out and there's a car literally 4 inches away from my drivers door. I had to crawl in through the passenger door. So I move to a different spot, on the end of a row where there's only one side exposed, and within two days I get to work and a different car is in that spot. No one else in the whole frikin' lot, but they just had to park in 'my' spot. So I move again, and same result. Now there's three cars in the back lot, all in 'my' favorite spots. Today it happened again! We're up to four cars now, in a lot where no one ever parked until I did. And we're not talking show cars here either. All four are just old beaters, the kind of car owned by someone who flings doors open into the door of the car in the next spot. It took me three years to get this Z into decent shape, and now I can't park anywhere without some goober getting my perfect door/paint in his sights. All I can say is God help the person who ever puts a nick on my car! There will be a whole new meaning given to the term 'beater car'!

Darwin award winners just waiting to happen!

Yeah, looking back now I wish I had left some extra length in the fuel lines, or made the connections farther away from the tank. That's exactly the reason for my question. I installed the tank while the car was upside down, and made a real effort at tucking everything up tight. I'm afraid that there won't be room enough to get the fuel lines unplugged from the sender without dropping fuel lines, and probably the exhaust too. I even thought about making an access door in the hatch area, but I got lazy. After all, who ever needs to change a sender unit, eh? Now the Z has a bad sender, and so does my Camaro.

I think you need to really haggle on the price. $1500 seems pretty high to me, considering what you're going to have to do. I'd offer maybe half of his asking price.

I need to change out the fuel tank sending unit on my car, and need some advise on how to cut a hole in the floor over the tank without blowing myself up. The car has a plastic LS1 F-body tank, and the hatch area floor is 16ga mild steel. I'm worried about making any sparks anywhere near the fuel connections with a cutting wheel or a nibbler. Any ideas?

The best answer would be to use the Camaro/Firebird twin fan set-up. The plugs are in the engine harness and then you also get to retain the computer control. It takes about 10 minutes to fab the mounting brackets and modify the shroud. If you watch Ebay you can get a set for maybe $50.

I put mine in the passenger footwell. Get one of the plastic mounting brackets from a Camaro or a Firebird, face it so the connectors are on the top, and it fits right in.

There was an LS1 240SX at the tuners shop when I had my car in for some work, so it can be done.

Here's a thought for you about molding the airdam to the front fenders. I have the same airdam on my car and yesterday I just touched a parking block with the lower edge. The crunching sound was awful and it actually cracked the top edge of the piece right where it mounts to the headlight bucket. If one little touch cracked the airdam, what would happen if it had been fiberglassed to the fender? That part of the fender isn't very strong and my guess would be that the joint might crack if the airdam got bumped very hard. I'd sure hate to have to repaint front fenders too if the airdam ever needs any R&R...

I'll be there next time. My poor car is sitting in the garage, or should I say scattered all over the garage floor. It should be a nice evening!

Probably a stupid question, but what sort of headlight covers are those on the red car? They look to have a screwed down metal frame. WAY better than the goofy metal tab/tape set up! (Probably big bucks too!)

Did you ask her about the Corvette in the garage????

For your next video, I want to see you do that on an R1!!!!!

I need a pair of 280ZXT CV axles. Can you give me the name or number of the yard? (Please tell me it's not a pull your own part place!) Thanks!

OK, my last post on this lame topic..... The final result is that they can't supply a right side axle of the correct length. (An interesting side note is that when I asked what length they showed for a LEFT axle, they said it should be 21-3/8", which by an amazing coincidence is the exact measurement required for the RIGHT side!) Cardone, who is the rebuilder, refuses to acknowlege that their data is in error. So now they want to credit me back for the rebuild cost and just say good-bye, leaving me with NO axle! My last communication with Rock Auto was they I expect them to compensate me for the cost of a replacement for the core I sent them. I did find a source on EBAY and have ordered a new pair of used axles which I will 'refurbish' myself. I do have to say that the sales guy at Rock Auto has been really cool and hasn't blown me off, yet. Note to self: Next time, DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND SEARCH THE HYBRID Z BOARD FIRST!!!!!

Ok, the replacement axle arrived, and it's wrong too. Why, oh why did I send my cores back???!!!

Has anyone here used the Autometer C2 programmable fuel gauge? The instruction sheets shows that it can be set using a series of presets, or by taking actual readings from the sender. The downside looks to be that it's only available in the 2-1/16 diameter and it's over a hundred bucks. Before I spend that much, and before I ask them if they can custom make a 2-5/8 size, I'd like to know if it would be more accurate than their gauge for the senders in new Camaro plastic tanks.

Got an email back from them today and they acknowledged they sent the wrong part. They forwarded a prepaid return authorization so now it's back to waiting for the 'correct' axle to arrive.

Of course I have 17" wheels! Maybe I'll drop to a narrower tire...

I felt bad about how much I've spent until I compared it to the price of any other new car. My 'budget' was $10k, but it got to a point where I didn't want to put 30 year old parts back on it. In the end I have essentially a new car. The engine had only 8k miles and everything else is new. The one plus is that it's all paid for, one piece at a time...