datsunan

As stated in Max Boost the majority of your heat trans is done in the first few inches of the cooler, therefor the one with more rows coming off the tank makes the shorter coolers more efficient. I would by the first one for sure.

Thanks guys I'll check that out. Bernard you might be onto something with the tps because at a slow cruz at about 2000 +- 100 the revs drop out then come back on and off. It's really annouying. Does that mean I don' t have the tps set right? I tried to set the timing with it disconnected but I guess from what your suggesting it should be jumped not disconnected. I'll do that tonight. Jwt tells me to set it at stock timing which is 20deg, right? If I plug and unplug my tps at idle should my timing change? Same with CHTS or is that just for fuel enrichment? Glad to see Bernard and bastaad525 responding to this I've read alot of your posts and have leard a thing or two along the way. Thanks. No offence to the rest of you responding I appreciate all the help I can get. Paul

You guys are stumped too huh.

OK so I finished the build I set the timing and locked it down checked it again 20deg. A month goes by and now I'm working up the boost, but the car runs like crap above 3500. So I read post after post and try everything no good. So I check my timing and its at 10deg I adjust it to 20 blast around a bit I'm stoaked So I call up my good friend and take him for a ride miniutes later and its running like crap again Check the timing and now its at 30deg, adjust it back to 20 and go for another ride, come home, check it its 24, take it for ride, blow off IC pipe and call it a night. Next day go for ride, runs crapy, check 24, adjust, so on and so on. Now i'm What the hell? I always tighten and check timing after tightening and the car is always at temp CHTS has no effect nor does the TPS Any ideas.

I have a 73 and have removed mine befor. As posted earlier you need to push it in and turn it, the part I let out is that you only need to turn it 1/4 turn right or left and then releive the pressure on it and it will fall off in your hand,,,,easy. There is a post coming out of the switch that inserts into a hole in the knob that loos like --O-- if you were looking the end of the post also looks like --O-- but it is at a 45deg to the knob hole, so if you push in and turn it 1/4 and then let it out wala. Your blinkers both work off the same flasher left side kick panel above the hood release. If on side is not working first check your turn signal mechanism spray it with contact cleaner and work it in on/off/on/off. It also won't blink if to many possibly if even one of your bulbs is burnt out check them first front and back , check the bulb, socket clean it. Then spray your hazard switch and work it. Good luck the lights can be a pain. Paul

First of all don't be to hasty to get your car to run you'll run into more problems than you have now. You should have 12v at the coil your problem is that you need the blue wire to + and black to neg, at least thats how my car runs with it. Check Summit racing or cheeper yet your local recking yard. The pump must be for a efi car and if you get it out of a car that you know has the same or more hp than you are running than it should be suficient. your pump needs to be capable of 36 psi at idle and 1 psi for every pound of boost you will be running ie 6psi boost =42 psi of fuel. Hope it helps take your time you'll get it.

Somehow my timing got way off and that happened to me. Start with the easy stuff. Is your cylinder head temp sensor CHTS hooked up? Is the connection good?

Befor I spend 60 bucks on a new sensor can anyone tell me what it should read. With the engine cold it reads like 2k ohms with it warm it is 500 ohms and lower. When I hook it up I get ohms in the meg so I switched to volts and read around 1-2v. My car is running like the ecu is in a closed loop and I think my timing is not retarding at high revs. The symptoms are a flat spot at 3500-4000 and up. I have read posts that it could be the plugs at the ecu, I ve cleaned them and every other plug. Im running the JWT sport 400hp with all new components except the CHTS. When I played with the sensor and tried to get some readings on it the car started to run better but than went back to its old ways. How do I test the CHTS? Any other suggestions would be appricated. P.s fuel press is 1 to 1 with psi boost A/F ratio is good thats why I think its closed loop timing issue. Thanks Paul

I was so happy to find someone with the same problem as me and that there was an easy fix. Unfortunatly I had no luck with unplugging my ecu to get it to run right. I'm so frustrated, I just spent a ton of money on this car and broke it in slow now I want to go fast and all I get is a flat spot when it should be slamming me in the seat. Do you have any other suggestions for me? Do you know what is happening when it does this ie, ecu cuts fuel, changes timing or is it a bad connection? I put some di-electric grease on the connector and it still does the same. Thanks Paul

I just finished my 240zt conversion and used dual 2.25" glasspacks from summitt, it sounds like a v-8 its really cool but does resonate in the car a bit. It probably would not be a problem in the 300z, you have more sound deading.

I agree old gas will really cause problems if left in the carbs for that long.

I broke my hazard switch tring to get it out. You just push it in and turn it right or left, it comes out really easy if you know how. The heater controls are not so easy, they are screwed to the center console so the easiest way to get the console out is to un-hook the cables where they attach to the coil and dampers. You should be able to get the hazard switch out without taking it off.

OH MY GOD!!!!!! I'VE DIED AND GONE TO HEAVEN! I took the down pipe off and felt the waste gate flap while still in place, it was loose enough that I could spin it around but not loose enough that I could fit my finger nail under it. I bent the waste gate mount so it would pull on the gate hard and put it back together. It pulls like crazy now I'm so stoked, I won't sleep tonight, must work on car more, still some minor issues of my intercooler pipes popping off at the worst time I.E. any time! I have an appointment at the dino on friday now I'm looking foword to that. My car finally feels like I had hoped Thanks for the help guys. Dino results and quater times to follow........

Thanks for the info guys I was really hoping to hear that it should build quicker cause its not fast enough for the money I've spent. Cronic when you say gain is set to soft is that the same as what apexi calls the duty cycle? If my duty cycle is set to low I wont even hit my setpoint. The instructions say to start the duty at 30% and go up till you are able to hit setpoint, I have my duty at 80% but like I said it hits spt at 6000rpm. It may be that I just need to dial in the controller, the damn thing has more settings than my stereo. To answer Afshin no it won't hit 14psi on the highway much below 6000rpm and I to think it may be caused by the waste gate not closing all the way. I had my turbo jet coated but I cleaned off the flapper and the seat befor putting it back together. I did'nt want to take my turbo apart cause I made sure the waste gate was working befor installing it but I must admit now that I know it should spool-up faster, it must be the waste gate. Looks like I need to get out my wrenches.

I'm using a Apexi AVC-R boost controller, right now I'm just using plan and simple no gear based or rpm set points. I have verified my waste gate is closed. The boost has always been slow to reach set point even at lower psi. Does anyone have a t3/t4 that can tell me at what rpm does thiers reach a certain psi? I would think my turbo should reach 10-14 psi sooner and allow me to stay in a power band rather than hitting that 10-14 psi set point at red line. Right? 14 psi at 4000 or 4500 hold it there till red line, or am I being to optomistic.

Ive recently finished my 240 turbo project and am now trying to build on the power now that the engine has some miles on it. I've been bringing up the boost a litltle at a time and all along it seems to spool slowly and not really put you in the seat as I thought it would. I'm running an 83 turbo engine with the Jim Wolf Tech 350hp upgrade kit, 420cc inj t4/t3, reprogramed ecu, huge intercooler, clean intercooler piping, high flow fuel pump and a ford cobra MAF. With all that I thought I would be really put into the seet when the turbo hits but I'm not. I don't hit 14psi till I'm at almost 6000 rpm. Anyone out there have anything similar that could give me some data on how yours spools, pulls, at what rpm. Suggestions coments? Thanks Paul

What you need off the harness all depends on how stock your keeping the engine smog ect. I have done this swap and if your confused now just wait till you go to put it in and hook it up. You had better be good at troubleshooting and using a meter. Get as many wiring diagrams as you can and become familar with both the 240 and 280 harnesses because you still need both. I will try to post an 83 factory diagram that was most helpfull to me.

I'm running a 350hp 280 turbo on stock lines but I don't know if you will need to replace them for a v-8. If your v8 is going to have more than 350hp you might need bigger lines it would'nt hurt. You will need to vent it or you will pull a vaccum in the tank. Just run a line off the top out of the car to atmosphere.

I'm using a summit alum cell. It came with a GM sending unit that is supposed to work but not be exactly accurate. I have yet to get it be even close. I also mounted it with the sump pointing foword because I did'nt want the lines coming out the back. When I launch my car boggs if I have less than 2 gallons in the 15 gln tank, so don't mount it like me or you'll be remounting it like me. Paul

Thanks guys I think it's working, if not I'm getting close.

Mike I sent you a PM with my password. I just checked my pics again and they are up now and so is my avitar. Did you do something to get them to load? Are you seeing my avitar or is it still just me.

I have tried and searched for the correct way to post my pics but can only get them to show up on my comp. If I log on at work I only get the box with an x this is my avitar also. I use the in front and after my pics http but no luck. I created a share to web sight add is http://www.msnusers.com/0o2tcniburdq6jfti354ec3o01 any help would be appriciated. Thanks Paul

Thats sweet!!!! Hope you can fit a filter under there somewhere.

Hey Terry how accurate is your gage. Is the sender matched to the stock gage. If so were did you get it? Paul

Are you using an aftermarket fuel rail? If not the inj should have a short lenght of hose on it.