stony

clint I used to hang with a couple of guys in japan that tuned computers. when i showed him all teh points in the rpm that you could set fuel for booste pressure, timing, ect ect ... they said it had alot more tuning points then any stock computer. if your gonna use the rb25 or 26 bone stock then teh stock computer is ok . you can also get it tuned for bigger injectors. but in teh states it would have to be on a chassis dyno to do it and with the price of writing a chip on top of dyno time im pretty sure the stock computer is not the way to go... especially if your gonna make mods over time... everytime you mad something its back to the dyno to set everything up again!!!! 2 ro 3 times to teh dyno and sds payed for itself ;> laterz stony

i was thinking the same thing on teh fuel system seemed a bit overkill to me anyone else?. Unless hes prepping for alot more power i had plans for the same HP but with 1000cc (6) injectors. and big turbo. ;>

check this out some of you may have seen this before . http://www.autospeed.com/A_0505/page1.html

hey S30 where did you find those pics looks like a japan car and his engine looks alor better then mine ;>

a guy i knew in japan did a rb-26 swap in a 180sx in japan(same as 240sx) ... the weight distribution sucks!!!!! over half the engine was in front of teh pillars and was right up against the fire wall. if your just gonna use it for drag racing the suspension will need alot of work to get it to hook up. the motor that guy did was pushing 500 hp and with all the weight in the front even nitto 555r with 10 psi (new) didnt hook up at all. just a thought. stony

Dan, i agree on the cold air intake. working on geting one made. ill contact my guy in japan and see if he dosnt mind getting parts for you. i would stay away from the stock ecu for sure especially if your gonna mod it... not to sure many would be able to write a chip for it in the states. I went with sds because it was cheap and i was familiar with it .. a frind used it in a car in japan and seemed really easy to tune, i worked out some of teh problems i posted earlier. the one drawback to sds is you really should have 2 people in teh car when tuning hard to watch the led panel to see where you need work . i leaned out some of teh low vacuum areas and it seemed to work well ... i could get it up to a steady 6000rpm with no coughs when i dumped it. mu next thing is to get my damn o2 sensor installed so i can really tune fuel mixture. I really need to get rid of these fumes. anyways ill stop ramblin laterz stony hey if you get sds we could compare setups ;>

dan if you havent seen it check out my web page http://www.geocities.com/stonehac/my_rb26gtr260z_page.html

dan did you snag that gtr front clip off of ebay?

Dan, are you talking about the compressor wheel? Atleast on my engine they are steel wheels. I had an rb-25 that had a ceramic turbo in it and the compressor looked and felt like plastic. the turbos on mine arnt like that. Im not sure about the turbine wheel. As far as turbos and daily drivers... i have a friend with a gtr with a t-78 and it is a daily driver...a 800+hp daily driver ;> I havent decided yet what turbo im gonna go with thats a while before im gonna do that....Im pretty sure though i want to go with a single turbo. less parts and easy to work on. i think if i show up to teh track again and run like a i was they will kick me out. no roll cage or 5 point harness. mine is also a 94 engine .. it came out of a wrecked r-32 (rear) with 55000 km on it. no knock sensors hooked up but they will be eventually. not sure if you can use teh stock sensors with sds maybe just one. im not sure. id have to get with ross at sds to figure that one out. 1000 bucks for stock turbos????? if you were in japan you could get a stainless manifold and 2 aftermarket turbos and all hardware for that much (used) no im not running the stock afm in fact no intake at all right now just open face turbos ;> like i said above im trying to get a happy medium for the track and driving.. right now it stumbles a little (lean) on low vacuum low rpm because i was trying to get it setup so at teh track i could hold a steady 6000 rpm for the launch. If i lean it out for the launch it stumbles a bit daily driving... if i richen it up so that it leave stops lights normally, its hard to launch at the track because it too rich. did that make sense. I wish SDS had that option of the wold ems... with the little floppy to save settings. program it for race gas at the track save it on a floppy set it up for low booste pump gas and put that on a floppy. this way when you get to the track pop in the race setup and your ready to go ....Im looking for another car right now when i get it the z will become a sunday cruiser/racer. im interested in teh manual. is it good? all internal specs so on so forth? part numbers? laterz clint

dan id love a copy if you can ???? ceramic turbos if im not mistaken didnt come on teh rb26 only rb20s and 25s but im not sure. they are t-25s on teh 26. idels just like a stocker but at 1500 cant figure out how to get it lower the stock ecu controlled idel in teh gtr and non of that stuff is hooked up ;< sds is the best investment i made in teh car ;> its using a map sensor (SDS) laterz stony

mine is a serious daily driver too ;> to and from work 5 days a week 30 miles round trip ;> at least in the. first snow flake and it goes to sleep ;> laterz clint

With the exception of the engine management and the trust FMIC from a silva. the engine is bone stock. stock booste stock turbos and injectors.Im using M&H dot wrinkle wall street tires. similar to the ET Street. Im waiting on a set of the BFGS i won on ebay... 275x50x15 ;> on the gearing im going though the traps @ 8000rpm in 3rd gear ;> i wish i had a lower ratio would like to be in forth. As soon as i can figure out the no load throttle setting i should be able to improve teh 60 ft times i want to launch in the 6000rpm range. as long as the tires hold;>

the way the motor sits now its maxed out . i need to upgrade injectors so i can booste alittle more right now its boosting .8 bar or 11.5 PSI. So im thinking there is alot of tuning left ;> 720 cc injectors and 1.2 bar or 17psi and i be in the 10s easy. i also have to work on my no load fuel map i cant get it above 5 grand while sitting at the line staging. if i dont get it just right it falls on its nose of the line with too much fuel. thats when i get a 11.8. If i can get that part ironed out it will be a consistent car. Im no longer so afraid of breaking anyting anymore after all the runs under my belt....if i can get the rpms up more on the launch (6000-6500) 60 foot times should drop some more. Traction was ausome i had tire spin but i could hold the pedal to the floor on launch. Its the hardest the cars launched to date. I ended up placing second in the race (bracket) a damn honda beat me with a 15.414 on a 15.30 dial. I drove a 11.672 on a 11.1(weak) dial it was my first time and i was pretty sure i wouldnt break out but after i thought about it i was putting my self at a disadvantage by doing that. should have used a 11.3 would have been closer. heres the time sheet for those who want to pic at it and give me advice ;> reation .790 60 ft 1.636 330 ft 4.587 1/8 et 7.108 @ 98.04 1/4 et 1.134 @ 120.67 oh yea this is on 92 octane pump gas ;>

with only suspension mods and tire pressure had a best run of 11.134 @ 120.67 that was after i let the car sit with ice on intercooler and intake manifold. run consistant 11.3-11.5 all day but had some knocking i have to work on. Previous best was 11.987 @ 114. so im happy. should be in teh 10s soon ;>

If your gonna mount tires that stick out youll have to trim teh fenders or the tires will rub no matter what size overfender you install. i cut out mineall teh way up to where the original fender lips start. check out the 2 different flares i have from japan. the bigger ones are for sale. im running 15x10s in teh rear. with teh right offset teh bigger one would cover 12 inchers ;> http://www.geocities.com/stonehac/my_rb26gtr260z_page.html

the wheelbase of a gtr and width are quite a bit bigger then the z. teh z body will have to be modded alot to fit the drivetrain and with teh transfer case being on teh driverside of teh car there wont be much room to move around on that side.... Ive also heard this is why teh gtr never made it to teh states (one of many) is that it count be modded to LHD. laterz clint

Hey i agree with all of you on teh negatives of teh rb swap and if i planned on staying in teh states would have never done it. the parts are expensive but if you look at the build on the motor and have access to replacement parts its a cheaper motor to build. motor is built to handle 600 hp without pulling teh valve covers off. can you build a SBC long block for 4000 that will handle 600 HP? I really dont know but i really didnt think it was possible? But as i said above i dont plan on living in teh states and V-8 parts in japan are even more expensive then the rb parts. well maybe not mail order. But on top of that not many shops deal with v-8......anyways ill stop blabbing. and again agree with all comments on teh rb swap and if your thinking about the swap dont even consider it unless you have access to teh japanese tuning market ;> later stony

holy cow ... for those of you who can get stuff from japan and can speak it heres a good link at yahoo japan. english is rough but gives good idea of what the used aftermarket is like over there 1 circle = 1 yen 135 yen to the dollar pure = stock look off to the left or just type in a search word like turbo or rb-26 ect http://www.excite.co.jp/world/url/body?wb_url=http%3A%2F%2Flist.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2Fjp%2F26318-category.html&wb_lp=JAEN&wb_dis=2

if your doing a HP run on a dyno most places start in second to get wheels moving then shift to forth in very low rpm and punch it. that is what the supra was doing.... that much HP will eat up forth gear in a couple of seconds. i participated in a 600hp skyline dyno run in the trunk it was quick ;>

OOOOOHHHHHH dan can i get a copy ;> ill have to email my parts guy and see if hes will ing to be a parts guy for everyone ;> stony

deffinetly first 4wd z in teh states. its been done in japan and works good but alot of chassis mods are required. i do have access to these parts but im very busy and my car is just sitting in teh garage. if i had teh time i might try and hook you and some others up but just cant do right now. but ill tell you who to get a hold of. go to teh SDSEFI.com webpage and look up japan okinawa on teh distibutors page and send Matt Hutchins a ring and he might be able to hoo you up no garentees though good luck

dan everything you said is true about the rb-26. one thing though is teh "GTR-Z" has allready be done atleast 3 times in japan. and alot of rb-26 transplants have allready occured. would be a first in teh states. :> i believe i was teh first z in teh states with rb-26 but i may be wrong. i did mine in japan though at a considerably lower price then one would get done in teh states.

Anyone have any experience with running nitros and a turbo? if so any tips? any special things i would have to do different them if it were a nonturbo motor?

Hey In your own opinion what are the most useful tools for tuning sds. I was thinking the most important would be af ratio meter. then maybe exh temp gage.

well ... I was running 35 psi and didnt really do a burnout. i was afriad i might break something. the reason i was thinking smaller tires was i was shifting into 4th as i went thru the lights. everybody else was shifting into 4th way before the lights. at any rate i think i need different gearing. the 3.90 with the r-33 mission is too high. although i could cruise at 70 mph @ 2500 rpm ;>