stony

hey will smaller diameter tires get me off the line faster?

didnt want to break anything i was running 35 psi in teh M&H racemaster 275x50x15s im sure i could get the 60 foot times down by lowering teh PSI in teh tires. Had quite a bit of tire spin in 1st and a little in 2nd. I also need to work on teh timing curve and fuel curve in SDS. stony

ok i need some feedback on these times . reaction time .835;< 60ft 1.905 330 ft 5.064 594 ft 7.249 1/8 7.737 @ 92.24 1/4 11.985 @ 114.53 I was happy with teh time but not the reaction. im thinking from looking at these time i could get to teh 11.5 range just by improving my reaction time. Is this correct Car ran great had to lean it out a bit in the top of teh gears but besides that no changes. stony

Pete, Im getting ready to start shopping for a rollbar... i was wondering if you have any pics of your SW rollbar you could post how its looks when delivered and when installed. thanks stony

Ok thats a cool formula!!!! and i thought math sucked in school My car has fiberglass bumpers, hood, no interior except drivers seat, no heater core or fan or a/c so im thinking i weigh alot less then a normal z. I plan on redoing teh interior later on after a rollcage but until then this is the way my car will be run. thats what i was hoping for mid 11s i will be making a run hopefully next week so well see. i have 10K springs in teh back and until i get my new springs im thinking traction may be a problem ;<

I know its in here but i cant find it.... i saw a thread in here somewhere where people listed the hp and 1/4 times and how they had there cars setup any help. im running 350 rwhp what should i see in 1/4 times?

well got it out and both shafts went in fine. anyone know what that little thing inside the diff inbetween the stub shafts is and what it does? ok to take out? if not oh well its the only way i could get the stub shafts to lock in

well im getting closer to figuring out this damn r-200. once i saw it i remembered. A while back I saw something about when you do the r-200 swap you have to remove the little spacer from the middle of the diff. This is what seems to be the problem. if i only put one stub shaft in at a time they will both lock in but if I install the opposite side it pushes out the other side?????? Do i have to remove teh thing in the middle? If so how do you do this ? thanks stony

Scottie. i agree with TimZ Alot of guys in japan would use stock gtr intercoolers for crz's and small 4 bangers and would work well but they still dont flow as well as a good aftermarket intercooler. If you do not find any leaks i would invest in a good spearco youd be amazed at the improvment. turbine spools up alot faster low end torque improves also. I think sticking with a npr or other stock intercooler is a good budget idea but not when youve got alot invested into a project. a good intercooler can really liven a motor up. my 2 cents stony

OK so whats th combo i thought it was clutch r-200 LSD out of teh 300z and the stubs and axles from the 78 280 z that had the r-200 open diff? I think my problem is that teh left stub shaft isnt matching up with teh snap ring. any halp here ;>

hello again i hate the title of this post just an invite for flaming and this place (HybrideZ) isnt teh palce for it everybody entitled to there own opionions. for you guys in teh states teh supra is better becasue it is cheaper but as for as durability and power they are about teh same. but as for preference ... i just came from japan and lived ther for 6 years... didnt see any toyota moters swapped into anything but older supras and tourer V's. but did see just about everything with a rb26 in it. from a datsun 210. to a ford mustang. thats says alot to me ;> my 2 cents ;>

I bought a liquid filled booste gage from a guy on ebay .. when i recieved it there was alot of liquid on the outdie of the gage and inside the shrink wrap. The guy told me autometer does this so when teh gage is shipped teh glass dosent break because of atmosheric pressure. Now i'M almost 99.9 percent sure this is bull anyone wanna confirm this... anyone ever buy a autometer liquid filled gage?

2400 for a race motor!!!!! shoot lower the compression lose some HP and thats a steal. id buy it in a heart beat. IF i were shopping for a motor id buy it. i paid close to 4500 for my rb-26 that is running around 380 RWHP. I would have to agree with posts above thought alot of chassis mods would be required before running it hard. youd twist a z into a pretzel if you ever got any traction. stony

if it is the snapring where can i get one?

i havent tried it but ive heard you can swap teh ring and pinion from any r-200 open or lsd. most of the time this requires buying an entire diff. If i was still in japan i could get tons of open diffs with all kinds of ratios. but now that i think about it prabably not what youd need if your runing high rpms with the 3.90 allready. 390 and 411 are the most available

I found out my left axle on teh diff side keeps slipping out of teh diff. Not all teh way just enough to make it leak. If the axles were installed backwards ie left on right rihgt on left would that cause this or do i have a different problem? it seems like it is not locking into the diff i can slam it in and then just pull it back out with little effort. any help

ok im talking clutch type lsd :> mine is a clutch type out of an older skyline 9early 80s). the axles came out of a 280z with a clutch type lsd. all clutch type lsds should have all teh same dimensions correct? you wouldnt have and measurements on teh different stub shafts would ya?im kinda curiuos to see what i have.... a friend sent me the axles and told me they were out of a 280 s with clutch lsd id like to make sure

ok im ssorry im talking lsds. all lsd stuff should be teh same as far as i know

ok heres my next question ... are all r-200s internally teh same? and if teh stub shafts came out of an r-200 the should also be the same correct? my r-200 came out of a skyline in japan. the axles came out of a 78 280 z (you know the r-200 conversion car ;>) hope i get this fixed the race season is short here in alaska and its getting ready to start ;>

well the ring is there just and intact but seems like its not strong enough to hold in teh shaft... anyone had this problem before? can it be changed without taking teh diff apart? thanks

shoot hope it not that envolved but we'll seee

if i remember the snapring is on teh axle right? or is it in the diff?

move to alaska ;>>>> just joking... header wrap everything and use heat reflective material in teh eng compartment. will work good for a while

new pics added today still a lame page though ;>

here are some pics of my line lock install http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/stonehac?d&.flabel=fld4&.intl=us&.src=ph&start=1 [This message has been edited by stony (edited April 08, 2001).]