Gollum

The peak torque isn't much better, but it's got a much broader torque band giving you more usable power. Imho, if you're gonna be on mountain roads just having fun then you want as large of a torque range as you can get. Sure high RPMs are fun and all, but having a huge torque range means less shifting and more enjoyment of the drive. Turbo 4 cylinders have loads of torque, just gonna stay out of the low RPM in wich you encounter lag. Shouldn't be a problem unless your gearing is too high.

No offense, because I like the cars too, but they probably thought it was a pos car. It was probably donated by some old lady.

Actually the VQ35HR DOES come in the USA. I think it is in the G35, but I know for sure it's in the 07 350Z. I'd imagine the F22C and F20C are identical when it comes to tranny compatibility. The two motors are only mildly different because honda wanted more torque out of the motor, so they increased the displacement slightly. The blocks are identical to my knowledge.

The F20C and F22C both get sub 30mpg in the S2000 on highway. New ones are rated at 20/26. Now, in a lighter car that would go up, but I think you'd still be hard pressed to see 35mpg out of it ever. There were some changes to the transmission, but I can't remember exactly what and when, but it was a reliability change, something that should be doable to fix on your own I'd imagine if you went with an earlier motor.

I was actually looking at a 180 degree ferrari motor the other day. Quite wide for sure. But I couldn't help but think "gee.... that MIGHT fit in a Z32 with it's wide engine bay" How'd I come across it? An old friend of mine runs a ferrari shop, and I was just catching up. He's not doing much car work these days, so he just a couple of cars of friends he's working on.

Yea, at first I was like "hey, I saw lots of those in england when I was there" Then I noticed the rims... buwahahah!

Dude, I don't easily move my L series BLOCK around on my own...

He was responding to your question. But I'll have to look into it, but you might not be able to legalize a diesel swap in CA. It has to do with the fact you can't 'degrade' the emission system of the vehicle, meaning that if your car had an EGR then the new motor must have an EGR even if it's from a newer car. I'd thought it was kinda the same think about gasoline cars, that you can't convert them over to diesel. I might be wrong, I'll look it up again.

It doesn't sit as far back because it's a transverse motor design, hence why the block isn't right up against the firewall. But it's not as much mass as a V8 so it shouldn't hurt it too much. And the 4G63 mitsu motor is one of the most reliable turbo 4 cylinders I've worked with myself. And it's definitely not weak, and might possibly have more power potential than a 5.0 motor, and I'm a ford fan so I'm not just saying that.

I understand what doc is saying, and he's right. Power = fuel. You want a high HP and a broad torque curve it's gonna cost fuel. Honda's F20C is a good example, 120hp per liter, but gets terrible gas mileage for a 2.0 liter 4 cylinder. And what doc means when he says "The ability to make big power and still have economy is mostly relegated to turbocharged engines" is that with turbo chargers you have a scenario where you only get boost (extra power) when there's load on the engine. This means that if you're staying under 50% throttle then you're power should stay fairly low, meaning less fuel used. Now, lewis mentioned his 355sbc not getting great gas milage, but I bet that was a carburated motor, and he also didn't mention what heads he was running, or what compression ratio. I'm not saying he's wrong, I'm just saying there's a reason his motor didn't get good gas mileage, and I'm betting it's either from 13.0/1 or more lean burning while on the highway, combined with an inefficient head, or he's cruising at a high RPM from poor gearing ratios. But like lewis said, he can get over 30mpg with his SR motor, and other guys are getting close enough to that as well to prove that it's not just him. But, also garrett is getting like 28mpg with his 450+ wheel hp L28ET. That's something not many can boast. But he's spent a pretty penny on it all I'm sure, but he's also running a stock head/cam setup, so there's even more power there untapped.

How hot will they get? Could I just use a high grade epoxy to hold it? I also imagine I can change them myself correct? I'll reread the injector sticky, it's been a while. Also, a quick note if nobody minds. How do you remove the bottom end of the hose on the OEM injectors? The ones I bought have fresh hoses on them with clamps on both sides, but the oem ones only had a clamp on one side. I was hoping to do the same thing with two of my other injectors if I wanted to use them and have them look the same. Also, I'm just realizing I could use the pintles from one of my other injectors. I have 6 NA injectors that are basically worthless...

Hey guys, well I'm polishing off the rest of the work needed to get my engine running and got to the injectors today and realized that two of the 6 injectors I got are slightly cracked. I won't mention who I got them from, because I haven't had the chance to talk with him about it, and he's been nothing but a great guy so far, so there's no need to point fingers yet imo. So here's the injectors. Also, the seals he sent with them look like this. To me they just look like pieces of cut up hose, but maybe that's what they're supposed to look like? I wasn't sure, so some confirmation would be nice. So these are going into my stock L28ET, and I don't expect to be running much more power than stock, and eventually when I put money into it I'll b going with a fuel rail, different injectors, and a high quality adjustable RRFPR. So in the long run I just need these things to be safe.

Good enough for me. Just making sure you understand the L28et is a worthwhile engine.

So.... why? With standalone EFI you can get much better MPG, and the engine has quite enough potential for most people. Certainly more than those diesel motors. Plan on towing something? I'm not trying to knock you at all, trust me. I'm just trying to figure out why those motors seems so interesting of a swap to you.

Ok, got the pics. Woohoo, mount drama solved and motor is in! Comming next week I'll get all the wiring done up, drain the tank, get my new injectors installed and fire her up (with vid of course).

OK! It's in!!! Loosened everything up, took my time, exercised patience. And then it went right in. I think the reason the bracketing looks like it's in a different spot on the 2+2 is because the tranny tunnel support hump is actually wider than the 2 seater car, so visually it's in a different spot, but it's actually the same distance from the core support. Thanks for the help everyone. Pics will be in my other thread later tonight.

Oh I agree completely. I just can't see blowing the kinda of money it's worth devaluing it. I'd be too scared. It's like how a lot of guys will buy a lotus over a lot of other supercars simply because they're cheaper, thus less afraid to race. That Z is a part of history, and if it really goes for 100k+ that's just too much money to loose because of one accident at the track.

If I paid what it's worth to get it, no. I'd put it in a storage container, maybe flush the fluids now and then and bring it to a show here and there to drive around a parking lot, but that's about it. I'd let the value rise. If it was given to me... oh heck yea!

But that's like marrying the most beautiful woman alive, and taking her to go live in a cave. Sure, you get to enjoy the glory, but you never get to show her off. I'd love to get under that car and check out the suspension setup in person.

Ah HA! That's where the new motor came from eh? Man, we need HZ tabloids I tell ya!

Me and my brother looked long and hard at the pics and decided that I should slot the tranny mount about a 1/4 inch or so. I'll get started on that tomorrow, should go in easy after that. I'll keep yall updated for future people that might have that problem.

Oh it's the same ears for SURE! But they're just welded on 1/4 inch farther back on the 2+2 car. I'm 100% positive of it. I did swap the crossmember and was wondering if it might be off a tad. Tomorrow I'll loosen it and give it some love nudges and see where we're at (and loosten the mounts from the block, thanks for the tip).

Except my car isn't a S30... it 'should' bolt right in. They had turbo models this year, so why it wouldn't drop right in I have no clue, except like I showed in my last pics, the actual tabs are welded differently in the car the motor came from. EDIT: Though it's off topic (my thread muwahaha), I saw in the pics of your car speeder, that you don't have an oil cooler on your L28ET. Ever have oil temp issues? Mine doesn't have an oil cooler either, and was wondering how much of a difference it'll really make running near stock psi...

which cross member are you talking about? the tranny bracketing or the actual engine cross member? EDIT: If you're talking about the tranny mount then I'll try it. I've got both here, but it looked like the 2+2 one set it FARTHER back, or farther forward if it was installed in reverse. But it's worth a try.

So where's the old engine going? Such a HZ member, have your car in a magazine... BACK to the garage for more voluntary work. Guy i know had a procharger put in his 350Z by a well known local shop and about 4k miles later he was passing someone on the freeway going about 70mph running about 3psi at the moment and BOOM!!!! Luckily they managed to save the block, crank, and heads but much of the rest was toast. So instead of just dumping the car he had the whole thing rebuilt. No problems since but I think he's about a 3.6-3.7 liter now I'm REALLY liking the sound of the new VQ35HR. If money wasn't an problem I'd go that route for sure. I'm sure it's just a matter of time till we start seeing 1000hp out of those. One of the better articles I've read on the motors: http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/september06/vq35hr/