Gollum

You mean, the kind of company that if they were selling 3 inch off axis screws they'd get you to buy about 5 million times more than you need? 8)

well, i'm glad to see i'm not the only one that's lost a run away z down a hill. Sad stuff for sure. Just got the new baby today. I decided that i want to sell my old hill roller Z as is. Nothing taken off. Other than it needs about 30+ shop hours to fit the corner panel it's a $3k z easy. NO rust, perfect t-tops with shade covers, runs strong, shifts like new, ultra clean interior... can't pass smog right now, but that will be fixed soon. Any takers? Gotta know how to do body work. The cost of having this fixed would be too high. It's drivable as is, just looks like a soda can when it meets foot. I'm willing to let go for $1k. I think i should be able to get that much around here. Plenty of Z owners around here. Anyway... i'll post a new thred about selling my car soon.

I failed the CO %. Max is supposed to be 1.35 at 15 MPH and max 1.15 at 25 MPH and i was at 1.71 and 1.72. The "average" is .20 & .17... i question those averages. I'll have to try the fuel thing, but i won't just run again, i need to be sure i'll pass. It's expensive.

I second that opinion. You know, supras DO run faster than 12's, but all the sub 12 supras are automatics. No joke. An automatic supra with few mods makes it to 11's. But a manual with TONS of mods has hard time making it. Autos shift faster, more reliable, and are all in all better performing. Not as fun to drive, but a good auto set up yeilds very nice street/strip performance. Can't really be awsome in the circut, but that's not wht you put a motor like that in a Z car. I'm impressed. I'm still waiting to see the 1000+ Z car with a skyline motor decked all out. I've seen many skylines do it, but i've never seen it done with a z car. So, what havn't you changed yet? By the sound of it you have lots of room to expand if you want. Am i wrong?

You people suck. 91 is premium in california... I should drive an electric vehicle...

Well, wide body for sure isn't the way to go like someone else stated. Oh yea, CHOP TOP. At least 3-5 inches. Rake that sucker back. That windshield needs to be as far back as you can get it. The higher the roof, the more lift you're making. You want the car's weight in increase the faster you go, then rely on pure HP to get you there. I personally think it will take a 1000+HP motor. Wich is buildable. I'd recomend getting the car as low as possible. The less air that goes underneath the car the less lift. As air goes under the car the air going over the top creates lift force counteracting the air underneath. This is what makes planes fly. So if you elimnate as much air on either side the better. Personally i think if you want to have a street/salt flat car you're going to need a multi geared rear end. Like 18 wheeler style. And you canb't say those things aren'y durable, look at the tourque numbers they're running. Personally i think it can be done. But i'd price it at more like 80k. But you never know.... Keep safety your first goal. Have weilded in plate covering the tranny in case the housing gives. Have a GOOD cage. Do some research in finding a cage that won't crush and has full side impact protection. I think the 200 mph will be reachable at your price range. But i think the higher register will take a much more powerful engine and the parts to hold it all. Combined with areo that keeps the car pushing down at all corners it can be done.

Personally, i love FFR because of thier pure heart as a company. I've talked to all the main names in the cobra buisness and all them won't talk to me (being as i'm 16 and only dreaming) exept FFR. I like how FFR's chassis is one of the strongest out there, and thier spec racer is well worth the weight. At 2300 Lbs it's more than 300% stonger due to thicker chassis tubing (that's were the weight is) and computer engineered chassis. I WILL one day own a FFR spec racer that's street legal. But i think FFR's GTM-100 Mulsane is much more intruging than any cobra replica. You're talking about a build cost at about 40k that will outperform MOST supercars. 0-60 in low 3 secs, with 1/4 mile times in the 11's. FFR has TONS of race proven ecperience, and they're plenty willing to talk about it. I've talked to FFR employees at races about things like supentions, chamber theory, other tech stuff, and they're always willing to talk about things they've changed from thier racing. They're winning all sorts of races back east (everything is back east to us cali people) and even here at sears point FFR cars have fastest times for several classes. Another thing to think about is that FFR changes things depending on what engine you say your putting in. They set up the car to fit your engeine. So if you wanna use a 500+ HP Big block they'll set up the front suspention to accomodate and other things that will need to be taylored to that engine choice. Also, if you get a spce race with full options, the only thing you're putting in is an engine/tranny, and driveshaft. The driveshaft has to be vut anyway, so just get a custom legnth. And then just buy a new engine and tranny isntead of buying donor parts. Now you have all new parts like superperformance for around 25 - 30k. I've seen people go wild on cobras too. I've see 1000+HP cobras with no frame mods with absolutly no frame twist at all. On the track they stay straight as anything. Personally, i think FFR makes one of the most reliable cars in the world, let alone the kit industry. And thier customer service will reveal why they sell more kit cars than anyone else. Well, i've talked enough... that's alot more than .02 worth. But hey, it's only my passion right?

Well, i went to smog today... DIDN'T PASS I was pretty upset. The guy said that he thinks the cat is fine and he thinkg is's the mass air meter/rugulator. I can't remeber what exactlly he called it. He said that i barelly failed, wich is why he thinks my cat is fine. He suggested that the stock mass air regulator might still be good, but over time the spring can loose tension and needs to be adjusted. ANYONE who can help PLEASE! I need to pass to get the registration over to my name. I HATE CALIFORNIA.... Although the weather is nice....

I know i've also seen a large range of crate motors you can call stock that produce a large range of power. He was running a first gen Z car. So i wonder why he seemed so pissed?? I guess we'll never know. The funniest part was there was a guy running a nissan turbo motor in mid to high 12's.

LOL aux, funny stuff... THERE WAS NO CURB!!! I think it should be like a standard or something to have rain gutters with nice tall cement curbs in every neighborhood in the USA. Is that too much to ask? Accually, i can't really laugh at myself about it... I couldn't really laugh about my gutar being stolen either. I COULD laugh at my accident in my honda... no fault accidents are funny...

LOL aux, funny stuff... THERE WAS NO CURB!!! I think it should be like a standard or something to have rain gutters with nice tall cement curbs in every neighborhood in the USA. Is that too much to ask? Accually, i can't really laugh at myself about it... I couldn't really laugh about my gutar being stolen either. I COULD laugh at my accident in my honda... no fault accidents are funny...

I go shooting every year up in the seirra in a place called "hell hole". It's all forest. The rangers usually show up and say "Is than an AR15? I got one in my truck if you wanna see it." Yea, a bit hicks, but they're all kool if you got your papers. It's usually a group of about 20 guys. We keep pretty standard rules to stay safe. All barrels point down range. During a target setup break no ammo in chamber. Just simple no-sence stuff like that. Just to make sure no idiot hurts anyone. By best fried has hit a coke can from an estimated 450 yards (estimated by a marine scout), it only took 2 shots. He claims his sights were off. I've hit a clay 3" target from 50 yeards with a 12 guage shotgun with slug shot ammo. Only one try. I want to try 100 yards next year. Damn hard to shoot a shotgun that accuratlly. My blackpowder is probly more accurate

Wow... wow... I must say... i probly wouldn't have jumped the wall, smart though if you think about it. Funny stuff. Keeper for sure.

Hey, i was at the track yesterday and a guy running a "bone stock" 350 chevy was running mid 13's. Itsn't this a little slow. When i questioned him about those times being normal or not he got really pissed offleading me to think he wasn't happy with the results. So, any ideas what a 350 should run on the slow end? Keep in mind i saw this guy lay down about 5 runs, all in the mid 13 range.

Naa, not worth it... My buddy has one. Just problem after problem Bust seriouslly... i'd just buy 2! count them 2! MclarenF1's

You should see my car (look at thred "A tree hit me"). It's pretty bad. A body shop that works on tons of Z cars quoted $4500 for a fix + basecoat, no paint... ouch.... I'll post pics of my $500 prize

Well... i havn't postedin a while because of something.... it's called freakin BAD day. Yea, yall know how my when i bought my new 80' 280ZX the ebrake would jam up so i couldn't use it? Yea, i parked on a hill... put in gear... and aprroiximitlly 20 minuted later rolled about 20-30 feet into a tree. The left corner panel is totalled. Estimated 30+ shop ours to straigten stock panel. This was very painful, BUT i found a new body that's CLEAN. It's going to need my interior, fuel pump, fuel regulator, and a few other parts. Only paid 500 cash. Towing included. Went and looked at it. Only one rust spot that will take about 1 hour to get rid of. It's just a bit of surface touch up. It's not deep at all. So go ahead. It's out in the open... I'm a dumb ass. And a young one at that. The hill was steep enought to turn over my engine. Bring on the pain. It' can't be worst than the night it happened. I do feel really stupid though. I should have just parked a block down and walked. Oh yea... no curb... i hate dang ritz neighborhoods....

I wonder where they get thier motors... ::dramatic movie sound:: As if there was a high theft rate for nissans....

I'm totally sorry to ehard about the car. I know it's hard to go through something like that. My brother's 93 stang cobra was stolen about a year and a half ago. Never recoverd. Very painful. New project looks good. At least you got another right? Any idea what HP you're shooting for?

Well, i know i'm fickle. But i KNOW i'll have this car in 6 years unless it get totalled. I accually know 2 people in the bay area with 350 chevys in thier 280z, and 1 guy with a 240z with a 350. Personally i think it's a fairly common swap. But maybe i'm mistaken. I totally see where your comming from, that it's a hard swap, and such. But i care more about just streetable power. I want something that i can be proud to say i put it. And personally i'd like to have the knowlege and experience in 6 years to be able to do most the work myself. I understand the logisticst of an engine swap, but some of the key element i'm amiss on. Like welding. I have no first hand eperience welding. There are a couple of things like that that i would have to learn. But come on, 6 years is a long ways away. And i'm still young. I could go to college and still have the time to learn everything i need to know. I'm the kind of guy that looks for the uncommon reaction with people. Personally, if thre was a V12 out there that i liked i'd consider it because of the shock value of it. But i'm still worried about reliability. I know a chevy would be great for that. But i still feel like that just doesn't have the track value of saying i put a 427W in my 280z. I don't mean to sound like i'm arguing at all, but rather clarifying my opinion. I don't want money to be an issue. The last thing i wanna be is one of those guys that russed to get a project done and drives the car to a show 90% complete. I'm a perfecitonist, and i want a motor wothly of a perfectionist. It needs 1. Shock value 2. Huge street power 3. And be able to last more than 150k before a rebuild. The last rule there is what really knocked the skyline motor out of my head. Engines with lots of turbo power require tons of TLC to keep them running well. That's not reliable in my opinion. That's a reason i don't like a rotary sway much. Because it'll just have to be changed out at 80k anyways. Maybe i'm crazy. But that's what people told me when i told them i wanted a 280z in the first place. So am i really wrong to want to put the best SB Ford engine made into one of the coolest looking sleepers in the world? Sure it's alot of work, but it would be worth it right?

Ok, now... i decided that i want to stick with my stock blcok till my car is smog exempt (80' 280zx). So i had benn playing with the idea of putting in a skyline R33 motor... but the more I thought about it the more i hated it. Having to deal with tuning and maintaining and such. If i went skyline i'd go all out. I'd want 400 to the wheels on 91 octane with the turbos as low as they go. But really, it's just out of my league. So i thought... "I wonder how well a ford widsor modor woulod fit". And i figured, if a 5.0 will fit, a winsor will fit. After all, the 5.0 was based on the windsor block. http://coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_408w.htm?Submit333=408ci So i decided i'll have chp build me a motor. It'll cost a pretty penny, but it'll be worth it. It will have the street power i want. While easy to maintain. Also keep in mind it will be 6 or more years till my car is smog exempt. So, questions. Do you think a larger bore windsor is less reliable than a smaller bore winsor? If i can fit it i might supercharge the sucker and run low compression. But that would probly just lessen the relability factor. Ok, second question. Any idea how you mate a mustang 6pd to a windsor. I know it's been done, but i couldn't find much very easily. Maybe someone has something bookmarked. If anyone has another idea for a high hp easliy maintainible engine swap let me know (don't say chevy 350. It's not that i don't like the motor, but i refuse to be yet another victom of the chevy cheep sticker price. There are too many people with the 350 swap).

Hry yall, i'm a new z owner and my z make a little bit of noise and was curious if anyone coud help. It's a 80' 280ZX I'm not sure if it's the tranny but there is a bit of hum that sounds like tranny whine, but i'm not too sure what it is exactlly. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot it? And something in the rear clicks when i shift. Not when i move the stick, but when the clutch is enguaged and disenguaged. It sounds like a mild thumb. Not loud or painful sounding, but noticable. Any help would be apreciated.

Yea, your probly right about that. Weatherstipping isn't the simplist thing to get right. But i'm kinda ghetto. I'd rather spend 10 bucks to experiment than not experiment at all. I just hope i can get wholesale price through my friends auto shop. Should be a bit cheeper that way.

Sweet. I'd love to have that arm rest/cup holder. Storing drinks in the center capartment is a skill not easilly mastered. I usually have to drive about 1/4 mile to lunch and have to drive back with a drink... not very easy to do. I've noticed that if the cup is only about 3/4 full i can fit in between the passanger seat & console. But other than that it's a neet trick not to spill. PS. Is a little tranny wine normal for these engines/years? The tranny is a little louder than the engine below 2k. That's kinda anoying. I know that might not be bad. But i have no idea what a brand new z would sound like. Oh yea, the rear end clicks a little. Like sometimes is just knocks. Not too loud, but noticable.

Are like one of those wierd people that have a beater vehicle for the winter? Like, you accually get snow... I'm from california... I can't help but give you a bad time. Our winders are like seattle's spring. Quite cool with lots of rain. But never accually cold. Although.... The deliemma we face is that you still can't race in the rain.....