Gollum

Since when is stroke the determining factor of revability? Nascar motors rev faster and easier than my L28E... Brian Blake (1fastZ) made a 3 liter L motor that revs and revs down about 5 times faster than any L motor with the stock flywheel I've seen. It was almost like modified honda B series fast, maybe even faster. Lightweight slugs combined with a lightweight flywheel + clutch setup will do more than any stroke modification. Get the crank well balanced and 9,000rpm can be in your future, even 10,000 honestly. You can also lookup MONZTER's 240Z build up. It's a 2.4 liter that made probably around 200whp and revs like a mo-fo. Personally, if you're trying for the ultimate "rev build'' you should be using the longest rod you can get to combine with the shortest pin height. I'd say 70% of your time and energy should be going into the pistons. Every gram is worth something. The lighter you make the slugs the less stress on the rods and the lighter THEY can be in turn. The less the reciprocating mass the more you can play with the crank. Then wrap it all up with a 10-12# flywheel and you'll have something that's nearly impossible to clutchless downshift. And all that said, I personally don't see the point other than "just because" which is always the right reason. I just have to ask, have you actually ever driven just a basic L24 or L28 with a VERY Lightweight flywheel?

Looks good, right about where I hope to be once I get MS and have it up and running. What are you running for fuel? Stock injectors + rail? If so, what fuel pressure you running?

Looks like the same as my dam

I've met a few people who've gotten sick from CO poisoning, yes it's very serious. That being said they were all working on auto shops without proper ventilation. You also tend to notice the effects of CO poisoning before it's too late unless like The Infidel said you're shoving a hose in your face with CO.

That kind looks like a green wire, and very well could be your issue. Is it coming from the EFI loom or chassis loom? And have you verified that everything is wired up to the coil as instructed in this post? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/page__view__findpost__p__309094

Sounds like you could have some strange stuff going on with things grounding that aren't supposed to. The engine shouldn't crank on it's own more than a second after you've stopped it cranking. It also sounds like your ignition switch might be fubar. Have you played around with all your relays to make sure they're operating correctly?

Say you bought the Ford Racing 302 crate engine. You could get all the smog equipment (egr, pcv, evap, ecu, injectors, cats, exhaust manis etc) from a '93 Mustang GT (might require swapping intakes and such that all the smog equipment works correctly) and then you bring it to the ref to BAR label it as a '93 mustang GT. Again, the Ref will need a make model and year, and then he can start checking that it was all done correctly. Something else to remember that many people forget, is that if you have any sensors in the tank, odds are you'll either need to swap the tank or adapt the sensors to your tank. In many cases the ref will just say "you have to swap the tank over", which makes sense in many ways since the older tank might not be made to the same evap standards.

The biggest issue I see with a 15 x 11 is that tire OPTIONS are just so slim. Even wider tire selection at the right wheel height for a 16" rim is slim, which is the whole reason the rota group buy happened. With those rims you have many options of cheap, affordable, decently appropriate height tires.

A VQ swap is legal if you retain the smog equipment from the donor vehicle (350Z I'd imagine) A LS1 swap is legal if you retain the smog equipment from the donor vehicle (camaro I'd imagine) A SBC swap is legal if you retain the smog equipment from the donor vehicle (geez, take your pick, just make sure it's newer than your Z) A Ford Pinto swap is legal if you retain the smog equipment from the donor vehicle (ranger, pinto, mustang, etc) A 2JZGTE swap is legal if you retain the smog equipment from the donor vehicle (supra, or 2JZGE from other toyos) A 5.0/302 swap is legal if you retain the smog equipment from the donor vehicle (mustang, small truck, mercury, etc) Again, I thought I laid this all out fairly clear in my last post. The requirements aren't complicated, but it's tedious work and 9 times out of 10 people roll up to the ref with a swap completed and end up going home because they failed to read the rules clearly or failed to even try to read them. They just show up at the ref expecting them to legalize something at the drop of a hat.

I think he's talking about getting a BAR engine label for your vehicle. In california any engine swap can be legalized as long as it meets certain criteria, which in all honesty aren't that complicated. Basically you need to keep the engine stock and retain every emissions component from the donor vehicle. This means every sensor and every emissions related hose must be in place and functional. If you had 4 O2 sensors (one per bank before and after cat usually) then all 4 must be present after the swap. There's a few minor loopholes, such as if the vehicle never came with a CAT you might be able to get away without one saying that the vehicle's floorpan wasn't designed for the heat a CAT creates and thus would be hazardous to run on that vehicle. Still a stupid way to skirt it imo, just put the CATs on. There's some other basics though that are covered in another thread here. The engine can't be considered an emissions degradation, and they get really unhappy if you put a carbed engine in a vehicle that was EFI. The engine must be from a newer model year. The engine must be from the same weight class of vehicle (so no big blocks from passenger vans, unless you can prove it has all the emissions stuff from a passenger car that had the same engine from a newer model year than your car). This is all the "over the table" way of doing it. Trying to get out of testing through specialty, collectors, or whatever registration is kind of a "back door" to the system. I'd say roughly 20% or there abouts of a smog Ref's job is handling these engine swaps trying to be legalized. Seems like when I was hanging around the local Ref a lot I saw at least one engine swap in there a week, more common than the SB100 verification. The majority of their work is handling people sent to them by CHP or other organizations. They're usually very cool about helping you with engine swap details, but they won't like being the one doing research for you, they'll just tell you what you need to research and find out, and what you need to make them happy.

The FSM covers all this I recall, but check the voltage regulator and that your wiring from the alternator is actually in good repair. Sounds like you have some loose contacts somewhere. Have you replaced the fusible links? Old and corroded contents on the fusible links and other areas could easily be the culprit.

Download the FSM, run YOUR OWN diagnostics. Find out what's REALLY going on. Wiring harnesses shouldn't NEED to be replaced unless they've gotten pretty torn up from people doing "repairs" improperly. The Temp sensor can be picked up for cheap and is even stocked at many nissan dealerships still.

All those options are cool in their own right. And a 200whp L motor in a stripped S30 is NOTHING to scoff at and a fun little street car. It's funny how even a low 14 second car can put quite a few people to shame when driven right.

All you had to do was search with your eyes on the homepage. We have a whole forum section dedicated to the RB http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/31-nissan-rb-forum/ Regarding keeping AWD, I'd highly advise against it. It's just not economical and doesn't really translate to better performance in the S30 chassis.

Soon. Gonna start the planning when the preggo wife pops, which should be in about 2-3 weeks. I'm going to really ramp things up. Doing the yearly meet down where we've had it before on the backside of the oakland hills near orinda, and then i'll be doing another even up in sacramento for something new. And if I can i'm going to try to get a track day put together for later in the year. Hopefully it all works out. But yea, toan's car IS beautiful. It's SO beautiful when the two of your guy's car were at infineon last june I hardly noticed your car... You gonna make it out for the historic race this next June? If so we should actually hook up. My brother and I go every year.

Which I'd agree with... But how many people ACTUALLY make a 700hp motor? And how many will ACTUALLY use stock rods? But even at 100hp a hole that's still 600hp!!! WAY more than 95% of the L motors I see on this site, LET ALONE the cars on the road. Most people are concerned about getting to 300hp... Bryan also tends to seem to live on the ragged edge sometimes. He's the one who openly performs his own piston weight reduction and tries to share his findings and then people like to bash him for it, while other machinists in our very own community back him up. I'm not saying Bryan is rignt/wrong about the 700hp claim, but I'd just like to point out that he's not just "some guy" out there. I'm pretty sure his L31DETT is using an OEM rod and he's been daily driving it for a long time now (three years or more?). I'm not sure what boost levels he's running on a daily basis though.

Or we could do what many states and industrialized countries do - make the sniffer the #1 authority on pass/fail then if deemed necessary have a side citation method for having systems that aren't operable, such as EGR or EVAP. But you're right Tony. If we just had to have what ever emissions system THAT car came with and have it in working order, then the goalpost stays at a static location and waters wouldn't get so muddy.

A long long time ago, in a galaxy far far away.... ...there were engines with no crankcase ventilation, and they all had high clearance seals and leaked oil. There's a very good reason most engines from the 50's and earlier SHOULD leak oil, and that it's a sign of things working RIGHT. Use a PCV valve, your engine will thank you, and you'll have less fumes in your cabin as you drive down the road.

As someone who has friends AND family IN the smog technician field, I can say that ray is exactly right on all accounts. I don't see how the state could think it's going to work and it looks just about doomed to fail, which maybe is what the state is trying to do. Who knows.

Haha, I take it you don't follow my threads in the "other engines" section much. I'm probably one of the MOST out of the box engine idea guys on this board. More than anything else, I was pressing for info on the Acura V6 I didn't know. I figured there had to be a good reason to do it, and that maybe there was some info I wasn't aware of. People are ALWAYS allowed to do whatever swap they wish. I've considered just about EVERY swap under the sun for my Z cars. I've dreamed just about every dream. I even came close to buying a v12 jag as a donor once... "just because" it always the right reason, but technical background never hurts either. And thanks for the tips on the hot locations.

What tony said. Forged rods are extremely common compared to forged pistons. Bearing tolerances on rods are much easier to deal with than piston wall clearances of pistons. Forged pistons grow a LOT. Any hardcore racer can testify to the "normal" sound of piston slap on cold startup with forged slugs. And I'm not convinced that the "forged" slugs in the OEM domestic market are nearly as dense of an ali compared to after market ones. Short answer: stock crank and rods will handle 700+ HP when the motor is prepped appropriately.

Yea, 30 minutes should tell you most problems as long as the engine was cold and you get mixed driving in. My L28E is nearing 250k with no rebuild. I have ZERO doubt it'd make it to 300k. The L28ET is just as reliable as long as the EFI is in good working order. It's generally the air/fuel control that will kill these motors. I've even run them pretty darn hot without warping the heads, pretty darn hard to ruin. But a bad sensor can wreak havoc and hurt things pretty bad.

As stated, this is all covered. In fact, wikipedia would answer half of it. Just to reiterate, the L28ET is cheap and available. Turbocharging a 240Z L24 will require MORE work, and probably MORE money than just getting a L28ET and converting the fuel and wiring to EFI.

Meh, that wing isn't so awesome looking. You should throw it in the trash in Vacaville at the downtown public library located on Kendel St, say around 3am tonight.... Glad to see an update. Keep them rollin'.

Yea, but we ALL know you're a bit mad. Then again, HybridZ is kind of like Wonderland, we're all a bit mad here. I only post HALF of my crazy ideas here and people tend to think I'm a bit off already.