rustrocket

does anybody on here use these? if so, how much more vibration do you feel inside? what about noise?

is the haltech still available?

it was a primer black 260. the calipers looked like 240sx in the rear. the fronts were gone.

I was pulling some parts off a 260z at the JY on monterey road today, when i noticed that the entire front end had a box tube chassis. Then i noticed that it ran all the way to the back of the car. in the front seat: 2 downpipes! anyhow. on the rear, there are some 5 lug hubs. the driver's side has the entire disc brake (vented) assembly on it. might be worth something for somebody looking to upgrade. just thought i'd share.

Does anybody know if the 260z front crossmember and steering rack will bolt into the 240z? Thanks

Dan at DGR offered to sell me the rack and pinion off his girlfriend's car for $1k. That was for a front sump though. I've been talking extensively with Dave Lum and will most likely be going with his setup. I dont have $1000 to blow on steering. I'm going to cut more of the cowl so i can raise the engine so my oil pan sits at the same height as the bottom of the crossmember. If all goes well, mounts should be made this weekend. side note: now looking for an r180 3.36:1

if you thought the glare on your aluminum dash was bad...

How much shallower is the winged pan than the camaro one?

count me in too

Do you think it should come back any further or does that look good? What about the height? I'll take some pic of the gaping hole in the firewall when the engine is out later today, weather pending. It looks a little sloppy right now though Tomorrow, i'm going to bolt the tranny on and do the necessary cutting for the tunnel. It looks like the shifter is only going to be back a couple inches from stock. The pedals are going to have to move to the left a little bit as well. I'm thinking that i'm going to mount the master cylinders inside the car, to keep the engine bay as clean as possible.

I got up super early just to get pics on here for you guys. I spent a great deal of time yesterday on the 510. I took out the dash, engine bay wiring, dash wiring, clutch/brake master cylinders and brake lines, steering assembly, and part of the firewall. The way the engine sits right now, there's about 2.5-3" between the crank pulley and radiator support. It sits nice and low in there, as seen in pic 095 . In pic 114 you can see how close the mounts line up as well as how much of the engine is over the crossmember. Looks like the mounts wont be too difficult to make however. Should have those finished this weekend. I definitely have steering issues. Looks like i'll have to modify the driver's side header to come up and around? Pick n Pull is ahving a 50% off sale this weekend, might be a good opportunity for me to investigate a rack and pinion setup as well as the 280zx front suspension setup. Check out the pics on my yahoo acct: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/clarkcameronm/album?.dir=/c5e2

Thanks mike.

i watched a couple of those free vids and had to fight the urge to not punch my computer screen. at least one could change a tire in the sand...

What did he do about the size difference in tubing/piping from the radiator hose to the heater core/trans cooler?

What about v mounted radiators in front of the engine (so they both meet at the radiator support)? hmm...

http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm

Thanks for the support qwik240z. I think when i finish this swap, i'll change my name to stupidfastdime . Anyways, i obviously need the engine to be pretty far back, but at what point would it be too far back?

My suspension is looking decent already. Troy Ermish coil overs all the way around, tokico 5 ways in the front, Hal/Carerras in the rear, addco sway bars, techno toy camber plates and tie rods, and i also have a 4 point bar in the rear that will turn into a full cage after the swap is complete. I want this car to handle somewhat. I'm not expecting that i'm going to go to a track and spank enzos and f430s all day long. I want to have fun. I want to go fast in a straight line, and be able to turn when i need to. I dont think that's too much to ask, is it? Am i just blissfully ignorant? Should i ditch the project before i butcher a rust free 510?

I sent him an e-mail...his reply was a little discouraging, but not enough to stop me. > I understand that you have a pretty mean buick 215 powered 510 True, 300hp full race 8500rpm motor. Mounted so far back that the front crank throw is at the original firewall. 2000#, 500# per corner. 10" slicks. It is almost perfect on paper. It cost a freaking fortune. >that handles rather well. Absolutely false. It is ALWAYS slower than my 200 hp L18 powered EP class on 8" slicks 510. They are both autocross only cars. The directional stability is terrible. The chassis is too short and too flexible. The rear suspension goes between trailing throttle over steer and power oversteer. The low polar momoent is impossible to predict. It breaks EVERYTHING. It has even snapped a rear trailing arm pivot bolt. It seldom actually runs 5 minutes without breaking something. There is no way to supply enough air to cool the motor. It has a huge radiator diagonally mounted in the original engine bay with fully shrouded push and pull fans. It has all electric pump drives to keep it circulating after shut down just so that is will still crank over and restart in less than a half hour. It is red. It makes great noises and looks great, but is a total failure as a 510 or even as a Buick. >Would it be possible for me to talk to you in detail and get some suggestions about what to (and what not) to do with my swap? Don't do it. A Z has been converted very well with an LS1, by Dave Kipperman in Roseberg OR, but it cost well over $50K by the time the chassis was re-engineered to handle over 250hp. Z chassis are even shorter than 510s and are in big trouble for that. There is no way known to harness over 200hp with the 510 semi-trailing arm rear suspension design. Both the semi-trailing oversteer and general flex are trouble. 510s work because they are light, when they work. 2000# and up they lose that charm. A V8 ain't gonna get you there. No V6 nor turbo conversions have been worth a crap yet, much less V8 conversions. Dennis Hale THOUGHTS ON THIS ANYBODY?

It's fairfield, sorry. I'm going to antioch tonight for more car parts.

If you are, and dont mind picking up some wheels for me, and being paid for your gas, please let me know.

Handling is one of my biggest concerns (i know...then why did i pick an sbc?. Wouldn't having the rear cooling system move some of the weight back a bit?

The idea of the rear cooling intrigues me...i like it. Can somebody give me a rough idea of how the radiator would me mounted?

After talking to a few guys, i've conlcuded that the easiest thing to do is to put a channel into the oil pan. I'm going to tackle the dash and firewall today.