flatrate

doesn't look bad, seems a hair conservative but not every engine is the same? Are you using Larry's Rollarwave pistons and chamber design?

yeah i had taken a couple degrees out on the dyno just to see if it was going to net a huge loss ( just wanted to make sure i was safe) 2 degrees pulled and it lost 30 hp. Put 3 degrees back in (so only 1 more than i originally had and it made 37 more horsepower. so i gained 7 horsepower with that 1 degree, which is worthy but the gain was cut in half compared to each additional one prior. i thought it was making good power as it was so i just keep it at 17.. but im sure i could get away with a few more if i wanted to push it, but its a street car i have locked timing with the EMS and checked with a timing light for any timing wonder, just free revving the engine, and it does retard itself 1 or 2 degrees when i rev the engine around never advances, always retards. so i suppose my actual numbers could be retarded by a degree or 2 but i havent actually checked during a run on the dyno.

Mine look very similar to yours but mine don't have valve reliefs. same dome look etc, just no reliefs. What pistons are you running? I like the reliefs, probably why i have such tight Piston to valve clearance. EDIT, after some research i assume your running Tomei pistons, are those 2618 alloy?

Running off the Shelf Wiseco's 87mm

Yeah i saw they have a new line out, but i don't think they have an application for the RB26 yet. If i remember our phone conversation right, you were able to go really far with timing?? Or was the above a typo? My compression is really low, its about 7.8. I'm running a 1.5mm gasket as when i initially built this motor it had really tight Piston to Valve clearance. (.050) with a 1.2mm gasket, i opted for the thicker 1.5mm so its currently .060. I never did get an exact measurement on quench clearance but i assume its close to what it should be as the block and head had been milled and the pistons hang out some, its got to be close to the .040 standard. How much torque where you making?

It wasnt gaining much more power on the dyno with additional timing, i could have ran another couple degrees but the gains had dropped off alot. it made 760whp on 30psi. Mine was surfaced at the recommended 50RA as well it lasted quite a while, just stating that the Apexi gasket is far better in terms of cylinder sealing around the combustion chamber. It has a full fire ring around the cylinder and seals all the layers together instead of just some raised unsealed edges like the Cometic. Just letting you know as i know you make alot of power and use Nitrous.

yeah there is no real need for them with forged pistons. Or a drag race biased setup. I noticed your using a cometic gasket, i recently switched to an Apexi gasket after my cometic let go, defintaly a better design. I finally dyno'd my setup on E85, i never got even close to the timing you did!! pretty strange. im running about 17 degrees at 30psi

you run any extra restriction in the block? Ive been thinking on my next build to run the extra rear oil return/breather.

sweet, i bet it makes great power and holds together just fine.

what oil pump you running? what are you doing for oil pan this time around?

whats up with the motor?

Infiniti J30's will bolt on to the RB bracket, but the fittings and fitting locations are different and will require custom lines.

140 is fine.. wet pistons could be from something else.. not likely it needs a rebuild.. FYI my car only does 95psi on a compression test.. as long as it's consistant your fine.. Are you sure the turbo isnt causing issue? the motor has been oil staved multiple times, so the turbo had to suffer as well. Wet pistons isn't a complete give away that something is wrong

Be interesting to see how that wheel performs. Glad your sticking with the RB

I bet it has happened more than you have noticed. ive been experiencing surge with my car it happens on full traction 3rd gear roll in's with the stock RB25 pan. I'm around 650whp... Rips makes a nice sump, i just bought one. Rips also ran a wet sump in there 7sec RB30 240z... they didnt have an issue.. i think they had an external pickup if i remember right. Higher capacity larger sump combined with an accusump should work great.. and be alot cheaper than a dry sump setup.. You'd probably have the same issue with a 2J on a stock oil pan too btw.. Happy Holidays!!

what mods did you have in place with the oil pan/ oil control in general

gonna stay RB?!

i just was looking thru the Tomei manual and wanted to bring this up one more time...did you remove the inner spring before you shimmed?

The Hype is real, their great engines. However any time you have an engine that was never in the united states it might require a bit more effort. From my personal experience and i have the little guy (RB25 lower end) it has been nothing short of awesome the last 4 years its been in my car.. The engine has made nearly 500whp all its life, and has been recently turned up to i'd guess around 700whp (street tuned on E85). Its never missed a beat and i'm not nice to it believe me. 8500rpm+ To ZTR, i don't mean to make you mad or piss you off, but how can you possibly knock these engines or discredit them when you went the most expensive route you could possibly go, and then all the related failures you witnessed where all caused by a collapsed hose, you put on it?? I'm not by any means saying the RB engines are superior to the 2J cause there not, however with a few modifications they are great. Anyone that wants long term reliability will build the lower end. Many people have pushed RB26's over the 700whp mark with stock bottom ends, and been successful, many have blown them to bits as well.. People have done the same with the 2JZ, not all of them survive. Look at full race and their R14 (S chassis with all R32 drivetrain) made 700whp on stock block and its road raced!! harder on an engine compared to any other racing if you ask me. Look at Rips going big with their RB30 powered R32 right now, its made 1100 (AWHP) at 24psi!!! thats insane power... I guess i just don't like to hear people knock these engines because in reality they are awesome, especially for an engine that was designed in the 80's. Do they have a couple weak spots?? Sure but nothing that cannot be easily corrected.

Your gonna find a 2JZ turbo long block in a junkyard?? Maybe an NA version. Parts for rb26 aren't anymore expensive than a 2JZ or much harder to get from my experience. Rb26's have made 800whp on stock pistons rods.. look at boozstedz's 300zx I don't think it worth the hassle.. but that's just my opinion.

i thought it was 65psi at hot idle?? Mines right at 30 hot idle with the tomei pump with what ever factory setting they come with.

So why was oil pressure dropping??

Fuel pressure?

I have the tomei pump myself.. it's not even close to that.. never has been.

That's excessive.. and unnecessary.. 3 motors later and it's working fine. Ok. You have nothing special going on to Warrent the oil pressure your running. But whatever.. regardless im glad you got the root cause figured out.