flatrate

Anything new happening?

i think you still have something goofy with oiling, perhaps your running the sump dry? I say that because your running a Tomei pump which does massive volume and its spitting out 70 psi at idle... thats nuts and way overboard.. you stated your N1 pump was doing 50-60psi at idle thats way more than i was getting when i had my N1 pump installed on my 25. Perhaps some of the difference is due to me having oil squirters, but My block does have restrictors in it. My oil pressure hot is about 80-85psi 6k and up 60-65psi around 3k and about 20-25 at idle i would take those shims out, there is no need for oil pressure like that.. One other thing, i also have an Endyn prepped head with all the goodies, when i got mine back from Larry i noticed he didnt clean up or drill out the oil returns on the head, i did it myself.. not sure if you did that or not.. Mitch

i bet its something to do with the external pickup sucking air or something of the sort.. was the crank cleaned and grub screwed?

3.4L? Not sure if your gonna try it again or not... Kudos if you are... you should, however you need to take a close look at whats going on and seriously look into the oiling system..

Yes that's normal, however i don't have 4 washers shimming the pump.. something is goofy there.. Doesn't it only come with 3 washers all of them different thickness? i cant remember. There is no reason to have anything more than 80-90 psi max RPM hot oil pressure.. I also don't get how it lowered oil pressure at an idle... those shims are for the relief valve if i'm not mistaken

I have a Tomei pump myself, i installed it how it came out of the box.. i get about 25psi at a hot Idle and about 60psi at a 3k cruise

RB's are great engines and are very durable I know your not really believing this right now, but there are lots of people out there doing it big on stock blocks even and having great luck. My Built RB25 has been together for 3 years now, it doesn't have any issues! I beat it quite regularly and rev it to 8500 RPM its got 12k miles on the clock.. doesn't leak burn or smoke a drop of oil.. i've broken a R200 pinion and buggered up a couple insert springs in the trans but no motor issues.. I built my motor in my garage with all the machine work done local.. I've built quite a few engines so i have some experience at it...I'm no PRO either, but have a little confidence buddy!! Is a 2JZ a better engine? Yes, for someone looking north of 1kwhp id say so.. but there really not much cheaper to build IMO What are you going to do with the oiling setup?

I personally think an OS30 is a waste of money, a well balanced STRAIGHT stock crank and bearing clearances set on the looser side of the stock clearance will be fine.. Engines fail for a reason, its not because the components used were not good enough.. oil squirters are pointless in a motor using forged pistons, and are actually removed from lots of engine builds.. The block strength doesn't come into play with the power you were making/potentially could have made.. The T04Z on an RB30 would be lucky to get to 750whp and you were not even pushing it hard from what i have read.. I would get another crank, locate a GOOD machine shop and get your hands dirty, Having RIPS build you a motor from across the world seems a bit ridiculous, no reason a machinist locally couldn't handle the job. I hope you stay on the RB30 train, you have a very nice setup and car. Keep this next motor simple, you don't need a fully countered crank or a deck plated N1 block etc to make the power your after.

I never had issue at 8k rpm with N1 pump and extended crank... I believe another member on here is making over 700whp with a bone stock short block rb26... i think yours might have been a freak accident ZTR

Torco RTF works well, trans is a bit noisy with the lighter fluid.. i also like redline Lightweight shockproof

I have a Rb26 head from Larry/Endyn as well, the work looks great.. He doesn't flow individual heads, he told me he just flowed a couple, as its a CNC'd port job so they should all be the same. I got flow numbers of 305 intake and 245 exhaust or something close to that.. i cant remember exactly.. this was a 28 inch's and .450 lift I'm using off the shelve Wiesco's and the stock combustion chamber design as well. I'm not sure what kind of power it makes but i went 126mph in the 1/4 mile on 17psi and 92 pump gas (self tuned) i'm guessing around 500whp this is in a full weight 98 240sx with AC The motor is an RB25 as well, i mated the 26 head to it.

A decent set of wheels and tires would go a long way on that thing.

you gained rediculous power for a 50 shot.. awesome!

Comp clutch? I'm using their twin, its rated for 600 WTQ

How much boost?

The sound is half the thrill

Mckinney also has good customer service, i'm glad i bought mine from them.

the EFR is nice but expensive... your already externally gated why change?

I think you should ditch the T04Z and put on a ball bearing 6766 or 6768 from precision.. spools better and almost 1k whp capable

id like to see what this thing is making 800 seems pretty wishful with a T04Z

Did you put it back on the dyno?

Actually not completely Rb26, 87mm Rb25 lower end.. Endyn prepped RB26 Head modded for Rb25 block

Does anyone know if a different tranny mount needs to be made to accomadate the Z32/RB tranny into an S14?

that power seems very low to me esp that its an HTA

I just purchased weisco pistons for my RB, as i was adjusting ring gap i put them into the cylinder to see where i was at... my goal was to have a .017 and .018 gap set and the 2nd ring was .023 out of the box a couple were .024 i swaped them from cylinder to cylinder to see if it was a incorrect hone or something the machine shop had done... it wasnt ever run into this with the weiscos? top ring was .013 out of the box... What do you think of the ACL race bearings... i wasnt able to find anything else for a reasonable price...