flatrate

Are you still seeing crazy high oil pressure??

You have the worst luck ever! I just can't comprehend these constant issues your having.. something (obvioulsy) is being missed, were the plugs in the crank removed?

Nice, ideas on what shes gonna run?

Glad you stuck with it, find anything unusual?

Thanks for posting that.. I knew of a bell housing being made but the guy behind the project neglegted to tell people anything.. good to know

I know how ya feel, i just got my R230 retrofitted and installed into the car and its pouring rain

What bearings are you using? i normally measure bearing shells and they never vary that much how far out was the main line?

i believe thats still within factory specs, however i never run anything below .0015 on something that makes power are any of the journals or main line bores out of round?

I have the 260 10.25 Procams in my Endyn head, there pretty mild... not really sure how good they are compaired to stock, i kinda wanted to try something new when i finally build my RB30... FYI, i had to run a thicker head gasket on my RB25 (With 26 head) and off the shelf Wiesco pistons, my piston to valve clearance was .060 tighter than i wanted.. so watch for that.. Glad your sticking with it... Keep us posted i dont know it all but i got a pretty firm handle on sucessfully building engines any questions please ask.

I got a motor with a cylinder full of water, rusted badly from JDM engine depot.. they were willing to do nothing about it..

I know bringing back the dead.. but im in the same boat.. anyone know if the pinion flanges from 350Z fit R230?

You should get rid of that old school greddy turbo and get a new billet 6768 or something of the like.. or a billet upgrade to what you already have

This is an RB26 cam, i just snapped the picture.. it should be the same as an RB25?? click the picture a couple times... it gets bigger Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Your method of checking timing is good The engine needs to be grounded to the chassis as well.. in at least 2 different spots. put the cam timing back to where it should be... Stock what rpm does it pull timing at?

i'd put the cam timing back to stock.. If he just changed the exhaust cam then it wont have an effect on the actual events the intake is going thru as its DOHC.. How are you checking timing are you using the timing loop in the back of the coil harness or are you retrofitting a wire into the number 1 coil? i haven't read your entire thread.. but have you replaced the knock sensors? checked to make sure there torqued properly etc Id also make sure the engine is grounded well, and in more than 1 place.

They make cast collectors, there awesome too.. I agree that a billet solution is a bit excessive but never hurts to have options.. Don't be such a negative nancy

Doesnt really matter where the CAS ends up, cam timing should be set to stock, or degree'd in if using aftermarket cams. ts Vital that the cam timing is right on, if its not it throws everything else off. My CAS is nearly all the way advanced, i know my cams are installed correctly because i degee'd them when i built the engine. I also run 20 degrees of base timing not 15 like a stock 25. If it stops pulling timing then maybe its now correct?? hard to say

low mid 400 seems about right.. my RB25 made 420whp on 19psi with a GT3076 T4 1.06 divided housing.. stock cams

Sounds good.. Details?

I had a Freddy intake manifold with my stock RB25 ECU, it ran like stock, stock turbo, stock 98 240sx exhaust, stock injectors etc..made 268whp and 273wtq on 12psi

Seems like alot of work, for what? just want a better motor? What intake manifold are you running?

Why do people think you need to send a engine across the world to be built properly?? I'm not understanding this at all.. Stay internal pickup wetsump. Find the gremlin!! Stick to the necessities.. There is enough info out there, i'm sure Rob will help guide you anyway you want.. People are make 500-800whp+ on stock block RB26's for xxx sake, stop reinventing the wheel guys... pistons/rods crank collar proper assembly and a good oil pump is all ya need to make reliable horsepower Obviously you have oiling issues, i would be removing everything, restrictor's plugs etc etc to ensure this one doesn't end up like the rest... Have the blocks mainline checked...i could go on and on, but any reputable machine shop building an unfamiliar engine should be ensuring this is all within exceptable limits.. Your oil pressure being as high as it is... that's an issue weather you agree or not.. more isn't always better.. sucking the sump dry worries me... all that extra stress on the crank and pump for no reason.. I'd like to see you stick with it.. it just wouldn't be as cool with a 2J in it

Why go 2JZ at this point?

Just get a decent oil pump i run a Tomei, Dry sump's are expensive... is this a street car? The IACV and that little box will fit under the intake manifold... i still use the OEM 25 oil cooler as well..it doesnt bolt on correctly anymore however it can work with a bit of trickery I's using Ferrea 1mm OS valves.. I have a full set of OEM RB26 valves springs buckets etc

I currently have an endyn prepped rb26 head on my rb25.. it was easy.. I had the front coolant passage welded and reshaped..I tapped the vct hole and grub screwed it shut.. I used 11mm (stock diameter) rb25 arp head studs.. dowels are the same size.. I haven't had any issues... been together a little over a year like this Your on the right track.. I've seen other guys mod the blocks coolant port.. I found that to be retarded..