silicone boy

Jason and Z ya, it's good to hear that you get that kind of power, cause I have a similar setup (i.e. the AFR heads)in the engine I'm putting together. The biggest difference is that I have a stroker crank and a roller cam--I need to so I can make up for the altitude effect. I can't wait to get it done and go out Mustang hunting.

This is a really stupid question, but what is the difference between a short and long chevy water pump (other than the obvious length difference). Is one or the other preferable or required for a V8Z?

Maxwell, welcome to the board. I, too, started building foreign engines (VW in my case, the Toyota 4AGE--sweeeet screamers if done right). Then I found this board (indirectly through the Mortec site somehow-lots of good info) and learned to appreciate the fact that doing about $1000 worth of upgrades could get you 100 HP, not the 10 that I would get with VW's . A year ago, I knew nothing about V8's and now I'm building a 383 thanks to the members of this board. You really learn a lot, and when you don't know, someone is willing to help out. As for the heads, I emptied the piggy bank and got AFR 195's, but I would consider getting Vortecs if I had to do it again. Great performance for the money.

I agree with you John, there are a couple of awesone cars here in CO that I would like to see up close. Now, Denny, 5 years? I was thinking that keeping the wife out of the garage for 5 MONTHS might be pushing it. You must have a very understanding spouse.

Thanks for the info. It was one of those mysteries that I was almost embarrased to ask about.

I never get that lucky when it comes to troopers. Way to go!

Sounds just like my wife, John. I'm in the same boat. I took apart a perfectly adequate, running V8 Z because I wanted more power and a 6-speed. The car's been in a zillion pieces since early June. I've been building a 383, and that has come to a grinding halt because the roller lifters I want are on backorder for 3 months . Wifey wasn't happy to hear this. She really wants her parking space back. I just hope I get done before winter so she'll be satisfied. The way our summer has been going, I'll bet we'll have a snowy winter-she'll be awfully mad if she has to park outside because of me. Since you live in the neighborhood (somewhat), I'd love to see your project when you're done.

My suspension is out for a total makeover right now, and I figured that I would take out the crossmember to do the bumpsteer modification as seen in the JTR manual--I have never had this problem in the car, I just figured it would be a convenient time to do it. It's kind of a backwards way to do it because the engine is still in the car--the car is on blocks and the engine is now hanging from an engine hoist. I started to make my marks (3/4 inches higher and 1/4 inch outwards) as suggested by the JTR manual. That would have put the holes really close to to top of the crossmember. Much to my surprise, my original hole location was higher than what was shown in the JTR picture. There wasn't any evidence that the modification had already been done (no extra holes). My question is, was there any variation in the lower control arm mounting point in the various Z years? Mine is a 77 280, and as I said, I have never noticed any bumpsteer, and you would surely notice it on frost-damaged Colorado roads. I was only doing the modification because it's a convenient time to do it. In any case, I think I'll leave my crossmember alone.

I keep on reading your stories and I can't wait to get back on the road again (especially after reading pete's last post--I want to give my 6 year old daughter a tummy ache). Reading this section inspired me to tear down a perfectly adequate running V8 Z (mildly warmed over)and turn it into a monster--it's now in a million pieces and I hope I can get it back together. Now that I'm deep into the re-do, I think I must be crazy (my wife certainly thinks so). I just dropped nearly a grand with Jeg's and Summit tonite buying parts for my new motor:cry2: (I probably could have had a 93 RX7 by now with what I've spent on the project). It hurts but the "kill" stories inspire me. Please keep them coming.

I am going to add EFI on the 383 I'm building. To feed it, I'm using 36 lb/hr injectors with a Holley/Cutler manifold. I have upgraded the fuel pump (not sure of the specs but I'm told it will support at least 500 horsies, which you really can't make at this altitude). I had planned on plumbing into the original 280Z fuel lines since it was already set up for fuel injection. I was just wondering if you all think the stock line would be adequate, or should I upgrade to a larger diameter line (come to think of it, I don't know what size the current lines are, but they look kinda small).

I'm pretty sure he's going to need some skin grafting around the elbow. You think the road rash hurts, the donor site hurts a lot worse.

Isn't that the Jonbenet Ramsey house behind the green 914 in UTvolman's post? I've been by it several times and it sure looks like it.

I recently bought the TEC3 system. I knew nothing about fuel injection before this and it's going to be a learning experience. The wiring looks intimidating at first, but after studying the manual, it seems do-able. The coil packs look awesome, and I like the fact that it replaces the distributor. The big downside is the cost. I got the whole thing for a lot more than I wanted to spend, but I've heard nothing but rave reviews about it. You can find a dealer at: http://www.getfuelinjected.com

Sooner or later, someone's gonna ask whether a big block or a Viper V10 will fit

Something tells me that this is a source of cheap, slightly scuffed (and sometimes bloody) ZZ4 motors: http://www.motorcities.com/contents/00G6H515800634.html Can you imagine going 0-50 in 1.5 seconds? My wife would kill me if she found out I had something like that. Then again, she probably wouldn't need to, the bike would do it for her. In my opinion, that motor belongs in something with 4 wheels, not two.

As always, you provide great links. I'm just now getting together the parts for building my first chevy small block (I've done a few VW engines before). I have the AFR heads, the block, now I'm waiting for the rotating assembly (a 383 internally balanced Scat with 10:1 hypertoot pistons). I was just getting around to finally deciding which cam I want and this definitely helps. Thanks, as always

Is that the same one that Ross makes for the 280zxt halfshaft swap?

Good point Lone, on the large displacement small blocks. World Products 415 short block was "only" $4700 or so--luckily I showed some restraint. With great aftermarket blocks and even bigger rotating assemblies, 440 or so CI is available. That's a lot of cubic dollars.

Is it just my imagination or do aftermarket polyurethane suspension bushings (e.g. energy suspension, g-machine) not always fit just right. I'm speaking specifically of the outer rear control arm bushings. I've ordered two differents sets from two different companies now and they are about 1/32 in too big. I've had to "machine" them down with my belt sander. When I think about it, this happens every time I do a bushing job on a suspension. Is there some magic chant I'm supposed to say beforehand to get it to work? I recently saw an editorial in one of the hotrod mags about the aftermarket auto parts industry and how it was a "50%" industry. They only do the job half right, or right half the time. Like, when we order an intake manifold, why don't they send us all the plugs we'll need? It's frustrating

Guys, thanks for the hints. I wasn't aware of the 2 schools of thought on Z ITS suspensions. That explains some of the discrepencies I've heard. Also, a 2" swaybar? Wow. Did you get that fabricated?

Guys, I've never seen this discussed before, but does anyone know objectively how well a hotly suspended Z handles. I mean this in numbers, and I realize that they really don't mean all that much, but does anyone have skidpad figures or slalom times to compare to a Z06 Vette? I've seen ITS and BSP Z's and they oversteer a little but catch very well. They were very competitive with the BSP C3 Corvette. My setup is gonna be 225 # coil overs front and rear with the standard upgrade front and rear sway bars and bushings in all around. I'm not going to run really radical camber, but I might use road race rubber (BFG Comp TA R1's) since I don't drive it on the street all that much. I was just wondering how this would compare to the latest factory offerings from Detroit and Zuffenhausen. It's important in my neck of the woods when you are zooming up a twisty mountain road with a 1000 foot cliff to drop off of if you mess up. Talk about white knuckle time!

Mike, where is your website located. The more I work on these stupid stock ones, the more I think a set of yours is starting to look a lot more attractive

That was the Grassroots Motorsports 2002 Challenge--build a car that accelerates, turns, and looks good for $2002. The take home message for me here was that it's a lot cheaper to do a project if you find a parts car for your buildup. I passed on several Z's that I could have had for a couple of hundred bucks. I've spent several times that in spare parts already. On the other hand, my wife would have killed me if I kept a junky parts car around.

Would everyone agree with Tomahawk on the 450 HP thing. If so, it would save me a bit of change . I'm upgrading to a 383 and that would crank out about that much (flywheel). Unfortunately, I'm at a mile high altitude, so I'm looking at at least a 20% loss . If the rear diff and axleshafts can handle that much reliably, then I don't have to worry about an upgrade (good thing too, that R230 swap didn't look too fun and those mini-me axleshafts looked ridiculous).

Mike, I'm getting an internally balanced 383 assembly also, and I was under the assumption that I could use a regular (350) balancer and flywheel with a T56. Am I wrong in this assumption? If so, let me know what you find, 'cause I'm going to have to get another flywheel.