gretchen/jason

man i got a set myself from a tool truck i got sizes 8mm-24 mm minus 23 mm and 21mm with my name lazer engraved on every wrench for 150$ . its not the kind where ya flip the switch like a wratchet ya just flip the wrench over to reverse direction . i got it in colorado spring from http://www.burntimages.com

So far ive been running a MSD pro billet HEI distrubitor on my sbc 350 in my 78 280z . Well i got me a 77 280z in great condition and i want to put my sbc in that z but i want to keep the stock hood latch . What other distrubitor can i use that is as simple to hook up a a HEI but will clear the hood latch . I used hood pins on my 78 as i choped off the stock hood latch i dont want to do that on the new z . Thanks Jason

I hope i posted this in the rite place . Ive done a few searches on what im looking for both here and using google and such with no luck . What im looking for is the outer rocker pannel piece that is behind the front fender i mainly need the passanger side . I just got a 77 280z for 500$ and that is the only place it has rust other then just above the frame rail in the drivers front fender wheel well . And it runs . I need to find this piece if availbe so as the body will look as good as the supercharged 383 im yanking out of my 78 280z with a twisted frame and stuffing in it . Oh anyone in COLORADO that will want a free engine and 5 speed man trans as is i will probably be yanking it out within the next few months . Jason

I did it my self all the tools i needed were a basic set of wrenches and sockets some wire stripers a cherry picker or engine hoist . I ordered the engine mounts from MSA and the trans mount from JTR oh and a drill i had of course . It took me 3 hours to remove the stock engine and mount the V8 small block 350 chevy and trans . Then a bit of wiring about another hour with a 1 wire alternator and a MSD pro billet HEi distrubitor . All in all about 5 hours from removal to starting but no driving . And that is the very first engine i ever removed and installed Jason

So a supercharger cam is different ? Im doing a supercharged 383 and all the cams ive looked at have less intake duraition then the exhaust . But then i looked at turbo/nitrous cams and it was the other way around why would this be as a turbo and a supercharger are the same thing to a point . I dont know to much about cams and duraition . i ended up with a blower cam with a .050 dur of 222 intake and 234 exh with a 109 and 119 lobe center . I even called Weiand and that is what they recomend more exhaust duraiton then intake . Sorry this doesnt have much to do with the origanal question i just saw a response that made me think a bit . Jason

Yes i know of this bundle of wires .Ive allready riped out the stock harness and rewired the entire car myself . What a job that was but i eliminated lots of unecessary wires as i call them . . Yes the IMSA flares i did want a set of those man that sucks . Jason

Oh he lied the 2 5/8 gauges are what i use and the fit perfect in the stock hole lets say where the clock goes . Outside diameter of the outer most part of the " beauty ring " Is just a hair over 2 1/2 inches . I just did a rough measurement . 2 5/8 is the diameter of the hole the thing fits in . I believe Jason

Yep it was some other type of flare i was looking at that they discontinued for a short time . Jason

Jeeze i feal dumb i see that post almost every time i sign in and never related it to what im doing . Hopefully i can find some flares like that last time i looked MSA wasnt selling them anymore or i could be wrong . Jason

Ive done some searches on here looking for pics or advice on rear wheel wells . Im looking to get flares for the wheel wells in the rear and wanted to cut out some of the stock lip and sheet metal if necessary as to run a wider tire and was wondering what to look for when cutting . What i mean is will i have to weld the 2 lips back together or add sheet metal to cover a gap . Im not to sure of what im getting myself into but it never hurts to try i guess . Jason

I somewhat have the same problem but i havent checked to see if my front springs are doing the same thing . But i do know this my front tokico non adjustable struts are much longer then the travel of the car when on the ground . I measured the distance and the struts actually compress 2 1/4 inches when on the ground . When i raise the car the springs pop out of the perches as the strut travels so far the spring then isnt long enough to keep up . Same went for the rears but the rears blew out about 1 year after install so i went to autozone got a decent pair of struts and now the car rides better then with the tokicos did when new . Thanks for posting the pics ill take a look at mine when i get the engine back in it . Jason

True there are to many thing to consider in 1/4 mile times . I even have a hand held slide calculator for this i got from a local speed shop . Its about 1/2 slower when reading 1/4 mile times compared to my online one i found . The truth will be told when i take my supercharged 383 78 280z to the track this season of course im going to dyno my z before i go to the track just to compare numbers . Jason

Eh i called the company about 1 year ago and asked about this product . I was told the design of the product creates a vacuum affect on the tail end of the device . I was also told to put them at the end of the exhaust pipe about 8 inches inwards from the tips or rear of the car where the pipe exits . Needless to say it seemed like a bunch of BS to me . Jason

The downward tubes look as if they are bolted in ? Or do they get welded in or is it up to the installer which they choose to do . And if it is bolted in did you have to drill completly through the frame or something . Jason

Well every time i tried anything on my laptop with the letters PDK in it and or strut bars i got some porn site and such . I didnt however search the hybrid site though . Jason

Can ya send a link to the site for those bars . Thanks Jason

http://www.speedworldmotorplex.com/calc.htm Go here enter a few numbers and it will tell ya what ya need to know roughly . Not sure how acurate it is but it says if ya have a 3,000 pound vehicle and want to run 14 sec flat ya need 216 horses to the tires . Doesnt say anything about torque though . Heck that means i should run a 12.8 in the 1/4 mile if this is measuring 1/4 mile stats . Give or take for traction and such . 9.80 thats quick says ya ned 630 to the tires Jason

Sweet ill look into those parts . Its a shame that whoever owned my z before me used the floors and rails like a bumper car man what a mess it is . Jason

My mistake i should hae read the thread a bit better . I fit a 2 row aluminum radiator in mine the side tanks are 3 inches thick . The core is 2 1/2 inches thick . The only mods i had to do are simple . On the bottom mount i had to trim some of the lip off of the mount about 3 inches inward form each side to allow for the tank to clear without rubbing anything. Then i took a bicycle tire inner tube cut it into a strip for the bottom of the radiator to rest on . I did have to put spacers between the frame and the lower rad mount to lower the radiator as it was a bit tall but it fit just fine . Once again sorry for the other post i read the thread to fast and had my mind on other stuff . Jason

Look up the black magic xtreeme fan in the jegs catalog i have that one in my z car with the jtr rad mount Jason

Yep all the notches are being put in where needed . Oh and ive matched the flow of my heads to a cam i picked out that matches the rpm range i need plus its ground for a blower or NOS . Ive had the heads cast iron worked over and bench flowed at my altitude it flowed a impressive 230-235 cfm give or take with a stock size exhaust valve arent they like 1.5 or 1.6 with a .490 lift the intake was similar but being it will have forced induction the intake runners were cleaned up just a bit . Im full of questions probably some ive asked before but im learning from this web site thanks for all the info people i enjoy every bit of it . Jason

So ive been trying to decide to get a set of block hugger headers or full length headers and wondering what the pros and cons are vs each other . I have found a set of block hugger headers that use 1 3/4 tubes instead of the usual 1 5/8 . Ive been deciding which to use after i noticed the set of block huggers i have a quite a bit small in diameter compared to the exhaust port on the head . As im using a supercharger i want everything to escape as fast as it can and as easy as it can . Would full lengthheaders be a better choice ? I curently run dual exhaust true duals 2 1/2 inch pipes with dual 12 inch long glass packs . Going to switch to a different muffler soon for a better sounding exhaust but there is another problem i have to deal with find a very good flowing muffler i mean really good flow . Jason

Yea man some more pics . Id like a better pic of the hood myself . Stock hood with a fiberglass cowl scoop yes ? And what is the grill made out of very nice . Jason

Cool to know the combo works when ya went from a 350 to a 383 using that combo how much more noticable was the torque ? Im just curious as though ill be running a supercharger on my 383 . I took a stock 350 230 crank horses roughly and made 265 horses 285 ft lbs of torque to the tires with no mods but a supercharger . Jason

So for a update i ended up using the shorter sbc 400 rods with a stock 350 piston not much shorter then the 5.7 rod but since the 400 rods are forged h beam rods i figured hey why not use them . So far everything lines up just fine . Jason