jbc3

I just received my 2 keys from him today. Haven't had a chance to try them in the car yet, but they look great. By the way, he's in Australia... I'm in the US... not worried he's going to my house to take my 28 year old junker... Besides I had them shipped to my work, not my house. Jody

Glad I could help. Jody

I bought the 1 1/8 Tilton Clutch master cyl and the plunger was actually a different thread than stock and longer, so I took the retainer off the end of both MC's and swapped the plungers. Took 30 seconds. Takes care of both the length and thread issue. (Why the large MC? I am running a McLeod Street Twin disk clutch.) JC

OK, now someone figure out how to make that a screen saver! As the room stops spinning.......

Oil in the radiator... maybe a head gasket. Fuel in the oil, maybe ring failure, maybe piston failure, maybe a stuck injector and it washed the cylinder wall and into the oil. If there is alot of fuel in the oil, it thinned the oil and and besides fixing the source, you should replace all of the bearings and hope that there is no crank damage. The combination of the two issues could mean a cracked block. Pressure test the coolant system and see if you can determine the source of the oil/coolant issue. Compression and leak down test to the cylinders to check if a ring/piston issue exists. Pull the fuel rail with the injectors on and still connected to the fuel line and turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and pressurizes the system, check for a leaky injector. Either way, pull the motor out and apart and figure out what happened and go from there.

First of all, what exactly went boom??? Spun bearing? Cost of new bearings, gaskets ,machine the crank and assembly. Your labor, pulling the motor etc... Broken crank or broken rods and you could be talking a new motor. You need to figure out what is broken before you talk upgrades. There could be considerable cost if the block or major internals are hurt.. 350 crank HP is really just a cam, cold air intake, roller rockers and some tuning.. 350 RWHP is heads (or port and polish), headers and the above mods 350 RWTQ is doable with heads, cam, exhaust and bolt on's on a stock bottom end. I made 378 rwhp/365 rwtq with PP stock heads, 224/230-114 cam, 58mm Tb, 1.6 RR's, cold air, headers, Borla cat back and tuning. Cost... P&P stock heads w/ larger valves and springs and new seals 1400, cam 300, cold air 150, rr's 300, cat back, 650, headers 500, tuning 300. Don't forget gaskets and seals, head gaskets, intake gaskets, front cover gaskets and seals. IMO... Cheap stroker kit are just that... cheap. Get quality parts or you'll be redoing it again soon. (I have a friend that recently bought a cheap crank and it broke in about 400 miles) You would still need alot more than just a stroker kit. There is machine work to clearance the block even if you are just stroking a stock bore, if you're going 383 or 396 then you have to bore the cylinders and clearance the block, and you would still need breathing mods to make it work, like new heads or head work, a cam, cold air intake, larger throttle body, rockers and springs and then you get into larger injectors. All new gaskets etc... Then you have the tuning costs. (Lt1-edit) How much do you want to spend... My Lt1 is now a 385 stroker w/4bolt splayed mains, forged bottom end etc... Or search e-bay and your local f-body boards and get parts cheap when others are upgrading.

I took apart the caliper to open it up and to grind the mounts, there is just 1 O-ring per side sealing the two halves, but there is plenty of meat to open them up. I only had to take .020 of brake pad off to get them to fit. My bigger concern was grinding the mounts, taking strength away from the caliper mounting points. Keeping the mounts flat and even was tough too. Jody

I didn't measure the initial width of the caliper opening, but I am pretty sure that this is the wider vented rotor caliper. I'll measure it when I get home. Jody

I want a Chevy bolt pattern so I can run 4th gen Camaro wheels on my 280 Z and larger brakes. I was looking for a relatively inexpensive option, so I started by installing an 89 F-body front hub/rotor on the front of my 280Z. The hub fits easily by just changing the outer race and bearing to the same as the Datsun. The inner bearings are the same on both. I still need a grease seal and the F-body seal is just a little large for the Datsun spindle. I couldn't find one at the local parts store (trial and error method) but I found http://www.tigerseal.com . They sell all sorts of seals and gaskets and you can get the seals by the inner dimension, outer dimension and thickness so I will likely order seals from them unless someone has located on over the counter option. I then tried the brakes from the 89 F-body and the 95 F-body and neither would easily fit. The 89 F-body brakes needed an adaptor bracket to work and at first looked as there may be hope. So I ordered a bracket from http://www.stockcarproducts.com. It is a weld on type bracket, but I was planning on drilling it and bolting it into the stock mounting holes. http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0082.JPG Once I got the bracket and began to try and make it work, it became obvious that the brakes directly interfered with the stock caliper mounting holes. The only way to use these would be to trim the stock mounting bolt holes and weld it in... still a possibility. I should have noticed before getting the bracket, but I didn't. http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0050.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0085.JPG 95 Camaro brakes, interfere with the stock mounting bracket as well as the fact that the outer brake pads are retained by "wings" on the stock F-body spindle. Too bad, because I have a full set of them just collecting dust on the parts shelf. Someone (Dot) has said that he used these brakes (93-97 are basically the same) but I don't know how he handled the retainers for the pads. http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0057.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0061.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0062.JPG So I then picked up a Toyota 4 piston caliper and brake pads. The width of the opening for the caliper was smaller than the F-body rotor, but the offset looked fairly close. I widened the opening of the caliper where the rotor goes and trimmed the mounts on the caliper so the offset was right (or close). http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0095.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0092.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0090.JPG The only problem now was the brake pads were just a little too thick since the F-body rotor is so thick. I shaved one of the pads some and it all appears to fit fine. http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0100.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0103.JPG If I was planning on running wheels with no spacers, this would never work, since the 4 piston caliper is right in the way now. I need to wait until I get the coil-overs on before measuring for a spacer, but one around 2.25" should work fine and the tire/wheel should fit under the stock fender just fine. I will be getting spacers from Andris at http://www.skulte.com/adapters.html. Here's the wheel and tire just sitting on a box, 2 1/2" from the rotor. It still fits easily under the fender. http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0104.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0105.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0106.JPG http://www.emsco.net/jody/zbrakes/DSCF0107.JPG For now if I want to put the car on the ground, I'll have to take the caliper off and bolt on my 3 1/2" Weld skinny tire...

I measured the width at 13 3/8" flange to flange of my 300zxtt R230 rear. http:// http://www.emsco.net/jody/r230/ I also measured the width (eyeballed it with a tape measure, no straight-edge used) the width of a Q45 rear and found it to be approx 12 3/4" flange to flange. Maybe someone has a more accurate measurement. That approx 5/16" per axle length difference seems significant to me when measuring for axles. So taking the axle lengths that Tim already has is likely a mistake. At what point are the axle width measurements being taken? Suspension fully loaded with normal weight is what I would assume. Also, what is the measurement that people have used for the end of the axle to the flange for the large 6 bolt R230 inner CV Joints?

Hmmm.... who's telling the truth??? http:// http://www.fordpower.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1613150&postcount=64 Not that I am a fan of Geico, this story has the makings of a tall tale. Only this one guy was "cancelled"??? I've been racing for nearly 30 years and have never heard of this happening before.

I cut the pipe threads off of 2 AN fittings and tig welded them to the end of each fuel rail. Here are a couple of pictures of the rail. They have been on my Camaro for the past 5 years. No problems at all. The stock crossover at the front of the rail is still in place. http:// http://www.emsco.net/jody/lt1fuelrail I run a Paxton fuel pressure regulator, which has the return line directly off of the FPR instead of the rail. Some said that the return had to be at the end of the rail, but I have never had any fuel delivery or vapor lock issues, even when running an ATI D1 Procharger on this motor.

I received my R230 out of a 300ZXTT today and after cutting it off the pallet, I weighed it on the freight scale. 121 1/2 lbs with fluid in it, stub axles in and the 2 ABS sensors and wiring. That is a heavy pumpkin!

Hmmm, interesting idea. Since I have never seen or done it, I won't say it will not give any gains, but if you are looking to run more timing you may be off base. The LT1's tend to show performance gains when the timing is backed off a little on the high end of the RPM range. This is based on both my observations on the dyno and track performance. They like timing in the lower/mid range. I have as much as 50 degrees in the 3000 RPM range and back off to 35-33 or so over 5500 to my 6800 rev limit. I have seen this in both stockish motors as well as heavily modified motors. Some of the heavily modified numbers like 30 degrees on the big end. These motors are not detonating at the higher timing numbers, so it may not be a heat factor. I've tried up to 40-42 degrees of timing on the big end with no detonation, but the mph was down ~1 - 1.5mph. The car will MPH better at the track with the lower timing. You may be able to get away with a higher compression ratio with more cooling volume... but with a 160 thermostat I rarely see the temp needle go above 180 except in traffic. Now that is in my 3800 lb F-body. When I get this same motor in my 280, things may change. ( currently 10.4 Compression, .040 over 385 stroker, 224/236-114 ) Going to 236/242-110 ( I think ) in the same motor when it goes into the 280.

Now that the R230 issue is becoming much more clear, will the driveshaft adaptor that Tim posted (listed below) fit the real R230 pinion flange from a 300ZXTT?? Maybe using 4 of the 6 bolt holes? I already bought the JTR DS adaptor, but not the rear yet. If not, what is being used on the 6 bolt pinion flange? 1310 U-Joint: NEUJ 1 0153 1310 Q-45 Conversion Flange: FLNG 3102 69

To answer my own question.... I found what I was looking for. (I had it saved on my work computer) http://datsunzclub.com/zcarserialnumbers.html

At one point I came across a listing of VIN numbers for the Z cars, showing the vin series for each year car. I can't seem to find it again. Anyone have this or a URL ???

To use a bender like the Harbor Freight bender, try this trick. Pipe and Tube are measured differently. Pipe is measured at the inner diameter and tube is measured at the outer diameter. The Harbor Freight Pipe bender has pipe jigs, so if you use the 1 1/4 pipe jig for 1 5/8 tubing, it is very close. The jig has to hold the tube shape so they have to be damn close. "The trick" Then you get two short threaded schedule 40 couplings that are slightly larger than the tubing you want to bend. (2" long 1 1/2" Pipe coupling has just over 1 3/4 inner diameter) Slip the couplings over the tubing and align them over the rollers on either side of the jig and then bend the tube. The couplings prevent the rollers from crushing or denting the tube as you bend. You may have to let up the pressure and re-align the couplings to keep them on the rollers as you bend sharper bends. The threads grip the tube and allow the rollers to actually roll over the bending material. You will get slight marks from the threads, but you can run a sanding drum in the coupling to reduce the sharp edges, and sand out the marks after you bend. 90 degree or more can be done by making several bends a few inches apart. I am not suggesting that the HF bender is as good as a real tube bender, but for any of you that already have an HF bender, try using the couplings and see how nice the bends can be done, you will be suprised.

There are bolt in roll bars and welded bars. Bolt in bars could be removable, but not as a practical matter for the most part. I have a bar in my car that has swing-out door bars and a removable harness bar, but the main hoop and rear bars stay in the car (Wolfe Racecraft Fbody bar)Bolt in bars may not be legal for some types of racing and others require certian sized backing plates and bolts to be legal. Bolt in bars can be powdercoated and some companies offer that as an option when ordering a bolt in bar. I suppose you "could" powdercoat a weld-in bar, prior to installing it, but you'd have to remove the powdercoating near the weld points and it would be a mess IMO. You are correct in saying painting a roll bar does require you to remove the interior and mask what can't be removed prior to painting. It is a lot of work.

The steel belts were coming out of one of the tires at the end, so there wasn't much left of those tires at all. The very last part you can hear the rubber crackling on the pavement! The car stunk for a week after that also....

Not a fair test of durability yet. The engine paint is fine for now, but the car is not on the road. I am putting the wiring harness and interior together. The engine and tranny have not been pulled from the donor yet... It seems to be fine, as I am test fitting seats and crawling all over the interior. Even the powder coated bar gets marks and chips in it from putting things in and out of the car as well as the seatbelt hitting the bar when you take it off.

http://www.emsco.net/burn/burn_99.mpg not dial-up friendly! Here's a little 3rd gear burn-out. You ask, what's this have to do with Z cars, well the 385 stroker in my red Camaro (on the end) is going into my 280Z along with the 6 speed.

I am not sure I'd do anything that was rubbery. Getting in you sort of "slide" in over and down the bar. The truck liner, although durable, you won't slide, making it harder to get in. In my Camaro (bought the bar) it is powdercoated and in my 280Z, I just used a good quality engine paint.

In the F-body world the LT1/T56 equipped cars are known for high speed vibration. Frequently referred to the "vibashaft" problem. Many times it shows itself when swapping rear gears. In the f-body it is commonly corrected by replacing the stock steel DS with an aluminum DS. There are some that continue to have the vibe. I replaced my 1LE aluminum DS with a Denny's 3 1/2" aluminum DS with 1350 u-joints and still had a vibe. (balanced to 10,000 rpms) I found that my tailshaft bushing was worn and the yoke moved a little when inserted in the tailshaft. (probably worn due to driving with the DS vibrating) Replaced the tailshaft bushing and solved the problem. Take the yoke and push it up and down in the transmission and see if there is a lot of play. I am still new to the IRS world, but in my Fbody, w/ Moser 9" with a drag race set-up I set the pinion angle to -4 degrees. Any more than -5 and I get a vibe at high speeds. Less than -2 degrees and I see more wheel hop. YMMV Jody

I was thinking someone tore a hole with a jack, it doesn't look like it took an impact. It's sad that the frame rails tear like that, but I have seen that on a number of other Z's also. I will be doing custom subframe connectors, chrome moly tubes and I will weld in some plates for jacking the car and cross support. I plan on building at least a 6 point roll bar, tied in to the subframes. As with many, I will be on a search mission for an LSD. I am hoping that I can hook it up with the stock rear, so I don't have to go the route that I did with the Camaro, Moser 9" rear with a Detroit Locker. I am planning on having a fun thumper motor, but I want to still have air conditioning Jody