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ya i think you got a deal. I cant even find those around me normally.

thanks a bunch guys, im off to bash the tunnel more. Also thanks for teh info about the cooler lines, i had totally forgot about them

I just got my lt1 with a 4l60e in my 1973 240 z. I have the two motor monts bolted in, but not tight. I have already bashed the tunnel and cut off the "ears" inside the tunnel. I have put on the different tailhousing that has the tranny mont farther back. Ok with all of that out of the way, i am trying to bolt the transmission crossmember up to the floor pan but it does not fit. The two humps get in the way. Do i need to bash the floor pan/tunnel so that it will make the tunnel wider down below? Or did i screw up some where. Also what side does the larger of the two humps go on, i think it is the driver side just want to double check.

Well i think you should start with this Get a 9volt battery and hook it up to one of your injectors that you think is not working. If you hear a little "click" then the injector is fine your wiring is wrong. But if you do not get a "click" then your injector is bad and try another one. This should let you know if your injectors are bad, or your wiring is wrong

Maybe a shot in the dark here but oh well. Are you till using the stock AMP gauge, if so and you are using a more powerful alternator the wires behind you dash could be getting very hot. It could be getting so hot it shorted out something. Also dont forget most of the stock Z wiring was no made for a high powered alternator.

275 hp then in 1996 up to 285 hp

The main prob with the 1993 LT1 is the ECU, it is not Flash based so you have to "burn" a chip everytime you want to change anything. Also you have to have the software and hardware to make the chips, could be $$$$. But if its flash based like the 95 all you need is a cable, like 50$, and the Tuner cat software about 50-60$ more. then you can tune it all you want with just a simple laptop. So if you want to be able to "tune" the lt1 get the 95 for sure. But if tuning is not a prob just get the 93 Lt1. And dont forget that the 95 can run off of MAP as well, with no tuning required. JUst do not plug in the mass and the ecu goes back to MAP based. Also if you want to know all iron head LT1's have the vented opti and flash based ecu One last thing the vented opti's have the better timing chain, that can be upgraded if need be. The non vented opti will have to be upgraded with a new timing cover, opti, and a few other little things if you want to change the timing belt.

Well you may already know these already, oh well Check the spark plugs, they will tell you the most about the motor, they should be brownish, uniform, should not smell like oil or look like it has oil. Check all of the rubber hoses, like smog stuff, make sure there are no cracks, make sure they do not look like they have been removed and then put back on. Check all of the electrical conections. Just like the hoses make sure there are no cracks. Open the throttle body up and stick something in there like your hand, and see what comes out. Hopefully nothing out of the norm. if you can, take the oilpan off. See whats inside. Use your "gut" it will be your best bet.

I would stay away from it. It will be way to much work. You should just use a normal cooler and cap the old lines. But if you do plan on doing it that would be cool, so get some pics.

i got them in thanks guys Also the size that fits is 1/4 O.D Pipe Thread, it took forever to figure out was a pipe thread

Just an easy question. When i tap the hole in the set back plate, should the knock sensor go all the way through. I would think it should because other wise it would only go in like 1/4 inch or so. Also i found my camera so i ll have pics later today. Thanks

Dude wheelman you are so right about moving the knock sensors to teh set back plate with the JTR kit. Thanks so much. Also as soon as i find my camera i will get lots of pics

yes you are correct about the camaros and firebirds only running one knock sensor. Also i would love to see the pics but for some reason they are not working for me.

do you have the same headers that i have? does having two sensors, or having the iron heads make a difference?

I have an LT1 out for a 1994 impala ss, the one with 2 knock sensors going into my 240z. I have just put my block hugger headers on, the ones from JTR, the sanderson ones. Well the outlet for the headers is right above the knock sensor on each side. What have you guys done? Put a nice heat sheild on one if not two of the sensors? Run no knock sensors? Relocate them some how? I do have tuner cat and i think i can remove the knock sensors but i would like to keep them.

well this is the cheapest way to hit "around" 400hp to the wheels that i can think of stock motor to the wheels, around 200 hp full exhaust and intake, b/c you have to if your going to put it in a Z 20-40hp+ "Tune" the stock ECM, to take out all the smog stuff etc. 20-30 hp+ Tune for 114 octane 10-25hp+ or water and or meth injection NOS for the rest, and i think the motor should be able to take a 100HP shot no prob. 80 hp or so so at best 320 hp-365hp and this in not hard stuff to do and should not cost and arm and a leg. Also just so everyone knows these are estimated numbers so do not hold me to them

sounds to me like your injectors are not all firing. sometimes if a motor sits for a while the injectors get clogged or stuck or something. you can test to see if they are opening, by giving them power from like a 9 volt battery. if you hear a clicking sound they are good, if not they are clogged or stuck. two ways to fix a bad injector that i have found, first, a good tap with a hammer-be very careful, second, soak the injector in simple green over night. hopefully this help you. also i would not say opti b/c you have spark at all the plugs

Just get tuner cat, and a usb cable from where ever you want. That is the best and cheapest way I have found to tune an lt1 motor. Also the guys at tuner cat are great with emails!

the gasket is all rubber with little round metal parts round each bolt hole.

u guys always rule thanks a bunch

so should i leave it at 18 pounds or take it back down to 8

I am getting my LT-1 ready to install into my 240z. I was putting the oil pan back on and i was 100% sure the bolts should be at 18 foot pounds, so i get it all tight and ready. I then start to double check somethings and find out the oil pan bold should have been set to 8 foot pounds. So did i just kill my new $30 oil pan gasket, or will it be ok and should not leak?

try some starting fluid, that will tell you if your injectors are opening or not. Just spray a buch into the throttle body, you may fluid it as well so do not forget to hold it at WOT if it does not start at first

So how did you do your alternator, so that i do not have to have any scay dreams tonight?

Wow your are doing the same thing that i am doing. I have a 240z that im putting in a 94 caprice LT1 motor into it. The caprice uses 2 knock sensors i would keep both, so that you do not have to change the knock thing inside the ECM. You do not need to wire in an OBD port. you only need two wires going to it, the serial data and ground. They come straight out of the ECM. You should find them in a wiring guide. I have not done my alternator yet but what i have heard is, you give it power from the battery and a ignition signal that has a built in resitor like it would be connected to a light. Just search for "lt1 alternator" there are many threads on it the extra harness that you have is more for the body and not to power the ECM, which really only needs about 4 or 5 wires connected to it to run. Just use your datsun relays for fans etc. But i would run new relays to power the ECM and injectors and coil. I know i still have questions but hopefully we can both get our cars runing if we work together.