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Owen

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Everything posted by Owen

  1. Yes, I'm going to get an adapter made like the one Mark sent me a picture of. Just copying his work so all the credit goes to him! As for the ratios, my searching has found that the Z32s have 3.69 and the Q45s have 3.54 ratios. Correct me if I'm wrong. Owen I may just correct myself, this page says it has a 3.69. I think they're talking about the 2001 model though. http://www.metroinfiniti.com/q45.htm [ July 10, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ] uhhh, http://www.metroinfiniti.com/q45.htm says 2.764:1 for the 2002.wow. 3.69 for 1999 http://newdev.hnt.com:6400/Info/Testdrive/Tech-Specs/infiniti-q45-1999.html [ July 10, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ]
  2. Local shop wouldn't do the shortening and resplining, so I'm gonna send them to Moser Engineering. Price is approx. $50 per shaft and $10 per circlip/snap ring. Owen
  3. Yeah, I'm debating on whether going with a big place like Denny's Driveshafts, Moser, etc. or just our local Driveshaft Masters...any opinions? I like the local idea cuz I can go there and tell them exactly what I want. Owen
  4. Another thing to worry about with race pads is their temperature operating range. Street pads on the race hardware sounds ok though, no? Owen
  5. I think I posted some info about those wires before...was thinking about stuffing them into the turn signal assemblies and such as an alternative to LEDs. I was also thinking about cutting part of my side mirrors and putting some of that stuff behind it to make it look like those newer turn signals with LEDs. I would never do that entire interior stuff though! Yech! Owen
  6. No CV shafts yet, I just laid some of the stock U-jointed ones in to see what kinda length I'll be needing. Hope to get those made soon! No problems with the mustache bar either. Owen
  7. Got it mounted, halfway at least Still need to make the front mount. http://v8zcar.topcities.com/s30z/r230-2.htm Owen
  8. Thanks, but I just ordred one with a lifetime warranty today. Harbor Freight is cheap but...I regard them as disposable tools. Owen
  9. THATS the tool I was looking for! Thanks Pete! Now if I can only remember where I saw it... Shot peening and magnafluxing huh, sounds like something I should look in to. Owen
  10. Here's some small pictures.. http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/exhaust.htm Owen
  11. I have some like that, got them at Autozone for $10 each. The door mount part is long and skinny but not unsightly. The mirror is round and adjustable too. Email me for a picture. Owen
  12. Anyone know of a tool, besides those pullers with the three jaws, that I can use to remove the outer bearing off of the stub axle? I saw a tool a long while ago which slides together like a guillotine behind the bearing so the thing can be pulled or whacked off. Thanks, Owen
  13. Thanks all, I'm home sick from work today so let's see if I can get some pix up Owen
  14. Got my LDS brace and mustache bar drilled for the R230 from Dave last week, thanks Dave! Everything is mounted up except for the front mount which has to be built from scratch. I believe the mustache bar for my R180 was mounted with the cylindrical mounting points facing outwards towards the rear. But with the R230, the diff's mounts interfere with the mounts where the safety strap was mounted. So what I did was to turn the mustache bar around to gain a couple of inches clearance. Now the diff is sitting a little more towards the rear than before. Is there a problem with this? I thought I had read someone mentioning turning the mustache bar around for the R200 but I couldn't find the info. My only other alternative would be to grind the safety strap mounts off and turn the mustache bar back around. I took a bunch of pictures which I will post tonite if I have the time. Owen
  15. Don't know if you got the welder already, but DON'T...DON'T get a Craftsman. They use all these imported parts and they just plain suck...it took almost 2 months to get mine fixed, and then something else broke on it 2 days later! Inside started snapcracklepopping and then started smoking. I put my put through it and bought a new one. I got the Hobart Handler 135 for $431 this past saturday, comes with a regulator but is setup for flux core. It may not be the best but it's got a 3 year warranty and almost any shop will have parts for it. I weld with .023" up to .035" with no problems on it yet. Don't know about other machines but the Handler 135 is electrically cold until you pull the trigger, the Craftsman wasn't, so now I can literally push the wire up against where I want to weld before flipping my lens down. Get some auto darkening lenses if ya got the money. Owen
  16. I went with the Painless 18-circuit in my '73 240Z. Yeah it was expensive BUT -I didn't want to go hunting around other cars and then struggle to remove the harness. -I didn't want to then figure out what wire was what and what kinda loads they could handle So I bought it It's all labeled and color coded, the rear of my dash still looks like a mess, but that's because things were done a little at a time. I also changed my bulbs to the 3157 "wedge" type. Dey works! Owen
  17. I'm only taking requests for the tapes that have already been sent out to others. I need to locate my other ones and then I will start a new topic. As always, email me! I'm not gonna be checking this thread forever Owen
  18. I was told the same, that Al wire is really thin and can get easily creased or bent. Owen
  19. Did I say 3 more? Hmmm, I can't remember but I got a whole slew of racing tapes, GTR drag races, high speed, etc. which are not Wangan Midnight movies. Those who have the tapes know what I'm talking about. There is one called Wangan Midnight Returns, oh, and Wangan Midnight Special I think, which I have also. Also have 4 or 5 tapes of a series called Shutokousoku Trial which is high speed freeway racing. No Zs though. If there's interest... And sorry, no DVD, unless you wanna buy me a DVD writer! Owen
  20. I agree, do it yourself. Age has nothing to do with it, I'm 10 years older than you and took a junior college class part way, dropped out, and learned the rest at home cuz they didn't teach MIG. Did the floors, subframe connectors, rollcage, coilovers, etc. myself. There are also cheap books, even at hardware stores where they sell welders. Don't cheap out and get the flux only though, once you start welding, you'll wanna do more and more and having a gas setup is definitely better. Owen
  21. I don't remember if the Z had this, what year was it? I know in my other car there is a tooth on the steering wheel hub that disengages the turn signal when its flicked on. Oh, I know, my car didn't have the stock steering wheel in the first place. Take off the wheel and flick the switch, there might be some kinda plastic switch or arm that sticks out. When you turn the wheel back to straight, something should hit this and disengage the turn sig stick. Owen
  22. Check out my links. Someplaces I have carry LT1 specific stuff. Owen
  23. Think I missed some of these new requests, please email me at v8z@earthlink.net Owen
  24. I have the Targa and Targa RS (I think) in my '73. Non stock floors with just rectangle tubing welded to them to use as mounts. Be sure to watch the side clearance too as some seats hit the door skin. Owen
  25. There's a website that sells after market mirrors with LEDs in the pattern of an arrow. They're really big SUV sized mirrors. Check out the Benz's and stuff, they have clear lens on the forward part of the mirror with lites in them. Also cool are the clear side markers, someone here at work as a convertible Volvo and they look pretty good. Owen
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