Owen

I have a Summit model, slightly different picture below. I have: A = BATT, MSD power, E6K power, etc. B = IGN switch C = starter I assume the voltage coming out of C is only present as long as the IGN switch is turned? Otherwise the starter would be spinning the whole time, right? Does a switched 12V mean the ACC function of the electrical circuit, ie. it turns off when the key is turned to OFF? Can the unlabeled terminal on the solenoid be used for this? I think I screwed up my wiring. Owen

Thanks, But what about the rubber tube from whither all the oil spilled out? I'll check the dealer. I'm driving my speedo off the T56 already. Owen

You didn't mention how much and what year but if it was the 1st generation Z with no rust and mint interior as she says, I'd jump on it! Don't know if I'd do a conversion on one of those older ones though, just because of the value of the car. I myself have a '73 which I don't think is considered a classic. So I did the Mikelley route too, 383CID, T56, soon to be installed R230. Like Lone said, get the BFH! No major work is needed really. I would recommend the subframe connectors and a rollcage though. Keep us posted! Owen

CONSTANT VELOCITY AXLE INTERCHANGE GUIDE (CVAI) The only cross-reference guide for front and real wheel drive CV shafts and assemblies. Includes joints, housings, tripods, boots, cages, races, and snap rings. List Price: $110.00 http://www.interchangeinc.com/html/product.html A lot cheaper than Hollander manual, too pad its not available in cdrom. Owen

Actually I just look at the mag to see the girls, lord knows we have enough of those cars around here already! But don't trust everything you read with them, back when I was a regular reader, they made some pretty big mistakes! Same goes for the internet too, it's so easy to publish information today. Owen

Stony, I don't have a picture but its a wooden pallet with a bunch of metal pipes strapped down with those metal bands and stuff. Really heavy... Owen

Good point Randy, I want all this adjustable control arms and camber/caster plates but quite simply, my car is a street car. I have the coilovers for wheel clearance but the car is not slammed at all. In my stocker CRX the ride is bad enough on some of these streets, I like sliding across railroad tracks when making turns though One day I hope to get into the kinda racing you're in, then I'll see if I need the high tech stuff. Owen

Thanks, if I switch to the 280Z stub axle, will this affect the position of my brakes, calipers, etc.? What year 280Z is the one to get? Any other cars which can be used with the 1st gen Z? Thanks, Owen

Brought some parts with me to work, makes it easier to brainstorm that way From what I counted, there are 28 splines on the inner CV. Will count the other side when I get home. There's a connector for the traction control, which is useless to us. And there is also a fitting/tube for the oil, which spilled out all over the back of my car... I wonder if this can be used to hookup a differential oil cooler somehow? Owen [ May 16, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ]

Took some pictures of the thing last nite, sucker is HEAVY! At least 100lbs I think... Didn't have time to do any accurate measurements so don't trust the ones on the page. Using the R230 stub axle with the 240Z stock strut is gonna be a pain, looks like I'm taking Mark's route with shortening and resplining. Mark, do you have any measurements on how long the shaft was after shortening? http://blake.prohosting.com/~s30z/r230.htm Owen

HAH HAH HAH! Thats a good one! Well, it wasn't the same problem you described. I'm gonna disconnect every thing and recheck the ground wires too. Owen

OK, I'll take the pictures but I think Mark and Curtis (anyone else?) are more suited to give the advice! I was thinking of changing the seals and stuff while its still on the floor but those output flanges look really hard to remove from the diff! Gotta get out the trusty slide hammer! Looks like the completion date is pushed back indefinitely until I get this sucker in! Owen

How bout my response from Wilwood on their slave cylinder? I asked, Can this be adapted for use with thee T56 transmission?" Answer," Yes, we have seen this before." Uh, hello? WTF! Forget them! Owen

Knightrider, It could've been done I'm sure, but my battery box was already in one corner I plan to do something like you say later on, like this but attached to the two bars I have landing next to the strut towers. Owen [ May 15, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ] [ May 15, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ]

That's what I thought, thanks guys! So I will need to use a flange that mates to the R230 shaft like Curtis is investigating, or to do what Mark did and get adapter plates made... Owen

Thanks! A much better answer than Autometer tech gave me... "Sir, I really don't know..." Owen

Hey Mike, None of that now...I'm sure you mean group puchases hookup right??? Owen

What is the strongest stub axle that will fit on the rears of a 73 240Z? I heard that the 280Z axles are stronger? Will I need a new companion flange as well? Thanks. Owen

I hated TSW wheels...until I saw those pix at the bottom of the page! Sweet! Owen

My Autometer Sport Comp oil temp gauge is whacked...when I turn the key to "on", the needle jumps all the way to the highest reading and stays there. What gives? Is there a short somewhere? I have not changed any wiring for this gauge that I know of. Thanks, Owen

There was an interesting thing in the latest import magazines (forgot which one) about performance wheels and tires adding more weight overall in the end, interesting. Owen

I saw somewhere that said it was a 3.69 but I believe it is the 3.54. Owen

For the rollcage and that kind of hatch, the only option would be to have the rear bars come off the hoop at a very steep angle and land next to the rear strut towers on the floor. This is how mine is because I couldn't find anywhere to land the bars in a good location around the spare tire well. Owen

I agree that the JTR book gives only very basic info, but it still was enough for me to decide what I wanted to do. For example, the JTR book mentions the T56 tranny only briefly, but it does talk about the other trannies, their bellhousing patterns, flywheels, starters, and dimensions. This sets the stage of what things you need to study on your own to see if a T56 will fit. Same with coilovers, bumpsteer, etc. I think the book is great because it makes you ask questions, then you do a websearch, and you end up here! I have only seen the John's Cars website but I did not like the Scarab positioning of the engine. Get the book,plan it out first, then buy the kit or just the pieces you need. Owen

Went to get an R200LSD for $250 on saturday and wound up getting an R230 with 4 shafts from a different shop instead, for $275. So from other posts I think I need: Axles shortened and re-splined. New diff brace. Drill new holes in mustache bar. Make front diff mount. Diff to driveshaft connection. Is that it?? My questions are, 1. What length should the halfshafts be? 2. Should I use 240 or 280 stub axle? (what year 280?) 3. Outer or inner CVs? 4. What is the tube and electrical connection on the diff for? Mine is a 1993 Q45. 5. Who was it that sells the brace and the mustache bar for this purpose? Thanks, Owen