Owen

Ahh, that's right, the 240Z stub works with the 280ZXT comp. flange. Interesting how this older car is even stronger than the newer ones, the ones that fit at least. Thanks! Owen

I assumed that plate was some kind of dust shield or something, to keep large pieces of debris from entering the carrier??? Owen

What I did as a test was to mount a glasspack thingy backwards on the car, should be quieter but more restrictive too. Those Dynomax bullet shaped mufflers might be an option... I've pushed back firing it up until I get the R230 on, I wanna drive-break-it-in right away! But who knows, I may get impatient Owen

Thanks to all who have told me that the 280Z stub axles are best because of their strength. But what about 280ZXTs? I know these need a little work but will fit in the 240Z carrier. Are they significantly weaker? I would assume the things get stronger and beefer as the years go on. Thanks. Owen

Gotta reply from Wilwood about which brake line to use. Their answer, as usual, was high ambiguous...they told me that if the rear tires are large, then I should put the valve on the front lines. That's it. What the hell is wrong with these people? How large is large? Or are they talking large brakes? I simply don't have the time to call them but I guess I'm gonna have to. Owen

Hey Mike, Did you weld this yourself or have it done. I know I have to completely dry out and evaporate the tank before attempting any welding on it, but a sump like you have is what I want someday. Do you have any pix? Owen

Pete, That's a SOFT copy ain't it? Another good way is to get a program called Webget, or Webzip, etc. This will save an entire website, graphics and all depending on how you do the settings. You can also specify how many links to follow and whether or not to chase links out of the domain name. I use this program a lot, burn it to CDR and then take it to work for offline reading. If you want hard copies, get a printer and lots of ink cartridges! Owen

I think the 75-76 280Z one is baffled for EFI, that's what I have for my 383SBC TPI setup. The later tanks do not bolt right in from what I heard. Don't rule out the fuel cells either. I got my tank from Randy and then had it coated with Gas Tank Renu, forgot what their web address was. Owen

Would you still recommend a heat shield for the starter even when using the remote solenoid? Owen

There is a one that extends down to the rear quarters, this one is a 3 piece I think. A similar one maybe a one-piece? Some thread recently with a red car shown in the body had it didn't it? Ahh, here it is. http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=9&t=000190 Owen [ May 30, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ]

With mine, the instructions told me to connect the two hot jumpers together on the starter. Owen

Jamie, Check with MSA as mentioned above, though they may not be the only supplier. Your said silver body and faded blackish flares? Sounds like how my car with no paint and test fitting the flares looks right now! I like the muscular look too, gives a much more powerful impact to the viewer. The Wangan Midnight spoiler is the same as the BRE 1-piece I assume. For the video, email me for my address. Owen [ May 29, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ]

Jamie, Check with MSA as mentioned above, though they may not be the only supplier. Your said silver body and faded blackish flares? Sounds like how my car with no paint and test fitting the flares looks right now! The Wangan Midnight spoiler is the same as the BRE 1-piece I assume. For the video, email me for my address. Owen

It was me talking about the color diagram but that's gonna take a while. I think Pete is right, the big White/Red wire that comes out of the back of the ignition coil should be the main power wire. It reaches up to the top of the right turn signal arm if I remember. Owen

"Have you learned anything more since this post?????" Installed the cage last December. The only part I could do at once was the mainhoop to halo tack weld. Did the rear diganols from the hoop to next to the rear strut tower reinforcements (that thing with the holes). Skipped door bars because couldn't get them to fit around the seats. It's a daily driver. Did the front halo supports in the car, but didn't do the front support bar which connects the two legs. For those who have this, how is knee-space in there? I had the S&W cage but no bender or notcher. I used the pieces of some extra prenotched ends to trace the pattern onto other pieces and guesstimated from there. Have a lot of pipes left over too. Full interior is intact, including the qtr. window panels, which I put on later. Owen

I have the Jim Cook Racing set which was a couple hundred cheaper than the Suspension Techniques set. The front is 1" and the rear 7/8" I think. Can't say anything about handling since the car isn't running but it does interfere with the 280ZX calipers on the rear (car is '73 240Z). Might be a problem with the new differential too... Owen

DUDE! So that's where all the parts have been disappearing too! Nothing's is wrong with mine, I know they work(ed) just cant figure out how to hook them back up after installing the new wiring harness. I must've misplaced the INT relay. Owen

BLKMGK, I think I have seen the same article. I have one in which they talk about the Q45 brake parts and 240SX brake parts. Owen

Heh, heh. I was wondering the exact same thing the other night? "Shunt???" Owen

For the horn there's a relay in the passenger side I believe...my problem was that the little metal arm on the steering column wasn't reaching all the way to the connector on the steering wheel. We should start an "electrical" forum.... I need help with my wipers too What I'm currently doing at home is to make the Chiltons and Haynes diagrams more readable. I scanned them in and am zooming in with Photoshop at like 6000% to clean them up. Adding colors too! Then I'm either gonna print out like 500 sheets and tape them together or take it to a printer and have them print me out a poster. (Like the one that comes with the factory manual sold at MSA, which is "no longer available"...so why advertise it?!) Owen Owen

I previously tried researching this as well, it seems that the Newman/(someone) 280ZX turbo had a torsen diff. (ahhh, I wanna say Newman/Haas but I KNOW that's wrong!...Newman...Sharp! that's it) Sorry... I read that they used a torsen diff in that 280ZX they used to race. Heh, anal me...when I was on the edge of R200 and R230 I even went so far as to make an Excel sheet of what cars had what diffs...RX7, Miata, Audi's etc...ended up with the R230 though. Owen

How exactly do you gut it? Haven't looked at it but doesn't the stock valve have both the front and rear lines going into and out of it? If you remove it, what do you do with the front line? Join it with a brass fitting? Thanks, there's more to this than I thought... Owen

Yeah, I've always liked the big-single look in mufflers (turbos too). I think the going price is $150 or less, it's just the muffler and has no muffler hanger pieces. I just used some clamps and hangers from PepBoys ($0.99!) and a little larger one in the back. As to cranking it up? Who knows? Was pushing for last week but couldn't do it, I want the car to be drivable in order to start breaking it in on the same day. I'll make sure to grab the audio of it though, have a feeling it's gonna be LOUD! Owen

Get some good relays (see my "wiggle it" post), not one like mine.... Tell me if you find some real heavy duty ones! Owen

A louver press! Gotcha! Thanks for the 411. Owen