Owen

Thanks everyone for the info. I already placed my order for the 3 inch piping. Mandrel bends, of course, those were in the plans before I even had a car! One place wanted $30 for one 90-degree bend, so I bought 2 180-degree U-bends instead at $25 each (I needed 4 anyway). Hope to get some cutting and tack welding done this weekend. I've finally decided to give up using the flux core wire for my MIG welder, and go with a shielding gas instead. Flux core sux. Lates, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I snagged this from zcar. Black door handles and window trim huh? We shoulda traded cars a long time ago, the previous owner did this and I went and stripped it all off. Started out using Aircraft Remover, a spray can, but that got expensive so I used Jasco, or other paint stripping chemicals found at HomeDepot. Don't forget to wipe the car down with water or get it blasted before painting it. Otherwise the reisdue from the paint stripper will jack up your new paint from the backside. Owen ------ Great stripper for removing undercoat!! Author: Alex (---.compliant.halofax.com) Date: Jul 5, 10:10am Hey, for all who want to strip the old undercoating from their Z cars, there is a great product from Arrow-Magnolia called "Seal-Strip" which will definitely remove the rubberized undercoating quickly and easily. The alternative is a heat gun and days of scrapping the goey mess by hand. Even then, you won't get the junk out of the nooks and crevises. Seal-Strip is designed "specifically for the removal of organic seal coatings." In other words, it works great for stripping off tarry stuff on metal. It also quickly strips floor paints, pigmented coatings, shellac, varnish, and is reported to dissolve rubber surgical gloves and even plastic cups! I first learned about the product via the Texas Z Car Club's "How to restore you Z car" manual that they put together. I got a copy via "All Z Car Specialists" near Dallas, TX. The author said that nothing he tried worked. He tried dozens of chemicals from chemical companies and every stripper he could find. Nothing worked. When he got hold of seal-strip (after he'd stripped 95% of the underside already. Doohhh!), it bubbled up the undercoating in less than 2 minutes!!!! Easy! I've tracked down the company and they sell mostly to the aircraft industry, but they DO sell to individuals. The price isn't cheap (~$36/gallon), but is well worth it if you are going to strip the underside of your car. The smallest "lot" they sell is 7 gallons, so maybe guys and gals could pool together to buy it. Arrow-Magnolia International, 2646 Rodney Lane, PO Box 59089, Dallas, Tx 75229 (972) 247-7111, or 1-800-527-2101. Ask for Nate Amster, ext. 254 and tell him Alex sent ya! -------- ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hey everyone, My motor is a 383 and my muffler is a single 2.5 inch OD. Should I go with a 3inch system or 2.5inches? What are the pros and cons of each? Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Are you talking to me? If so, the inlet is 3" and the body is more than 5" I think, the tip was about 5". It's an Apex'i Dunk, I think Apex has a website. I plan to get a big ol resonator/silencer! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

How about a paint can sized one? When I was test fitting before I bought the muffler, I used a paint can to see how much clearance I had. Mine is the Apex'i muffler with a 5 inch tip. Owen http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/exhaust.htm ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I mentioned this a couple of months ago on another post. It's used a lot in the rally scene on race cars. It sounds like a cheap good idea on a race car but I have doubts about it on a street car. The original rubber or whatever it was on my Z, in between the panels, etc, seem to be the culprit for much of my rust problems. I think it soaked up moisture over the years and caused the rust, this was the case in my rocker end-panels. A rollcage and maybe some extra points welded in should be good enough. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hey Psyence, Did you say San Diego? I'm in Huntington Beach and I was looking at a Recycler a week ago and it had a T56 for sale, 1995 I think. Maybe you can check their website. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Those are the 240ZG fenders that came stock in Japan. Actually the rear ones are a little big so they may be KGC10 ones or some shop's originals. MotorportAuto sells these now. They had a set hanging on the wall last time I was there last month. The ones they sell are the same ones as I have, slightly skinnier flare in the back. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

DennisK, I have the Edlebrok aluminum heads with straight plugs. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I used the Dynomax brand. The curved portion hit the spark plugs or left 1mm space for the plug boots. I switched to the Hooker ceramic coated ones and they fit fine. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Tech support would be your best bet. But I thought I remembered reading somewhere that the 6A series don't need resistors because they have the failsafe circuitry. As for the tach, I think it depends on what type of tach you have which would then tell you if you need a tach adapter. Just hooking it up to the tach port on the 6A might not be able to drive your tach. Again, ask tech support. They ususally email back within a day or so. Also, check their tech stuff on their website. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

It all depends on price per pair but put me in for 2 pairs at first. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Thanks, I was shocked at first when I saw that the control arm was flipped over! Whew! I guess I will try and put the locking pin back in but won't sweat over it too much if i can't Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

On my 73 240Z, there is a small bolt which hold the spindle of the control arm in place. How important is this bolt, as long as the spindle is bolted on at both ends, why should it matter if the spindle itself rotates? Also, I'm so stupid, I just found out that my car has 2 right-side control arms. The left side is just flipped upside down! Are there any major problems in continuing to drive the car like this? Anyone have an extra rear left control arm for a 73 240Z? Thanks. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I wonder how long this would take, to find a shop, count up the number of adapters per person, get the shop's estimate and then get them made if the price is right. I ask because the rear end of my car is in pieces as I am switching to rear discs and urethane rubbers. If this could be done relatively fast, I might just leave everything in pieces. Hell, I don't even have an R200 yet! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I'm gonna do what Pete suggests. Another question I have is, is anyone here using resonators or silencers? I know I can never get the car quiet as a stock one but I want to get it as quiet as possible. Also, what kind of timing light is good? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

This is pretty confusing. One thing that worries me now is do I get an exhaust system put on before I try to break in the engine? I guess I could just lay some pipe on the floor to exit the gasses to the outside... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

After I get my engine running and timed right, I was planning to drive it to a muffler shop to get piping made for the exhaust. However, on zcar.com, I read that driving without an exhaust, even with just headers, can cook the valves. Is this true? If so, I will have to tow it or make my own system. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Since we have a large membership now, can we do a group purchase on these custom things? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I don't want to be Mike Kelly either, but I hope I don't have the same EFI probs that Dan had too! I am going with a tuned port manifold from TPIS and Haltech's E6K. TEC 2 is older but is distributorless. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

The August 1997 issue of Turbo mag has an article with the VG30DETT engine into a 280Z. They said the installatio was "straight forward" but I would have nightmares about working on that engine! There was one at the MSA show too. maybe someone on zcar.com could help. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Thanks guys. Now if only I could find info on the Mazda RX-7 calipers for up front. Word is they're as big or bigger than the Toyota ones and are all aluminum. We'll see. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

FYI, The part number for the 18 circuit, non-GM steering column harness is prf-10202 whoever takes your order, amke sure you've got the 18 circuit. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

First to Mike and the 300ZX rotor conversion. I know I will need the spacer between the hub and the rotor. Are these normal wheel spacers? Exactly how do they need to be machined? Next, Pete, regarding the rear discs. I ordered the 82-83 calipers and have the 82-83 rotors. Your article mentions Early calipers with late rotors. Can I still do this using the parts I have? I have the 83 Maxima disc brake bracket as well. Anyone know anyone who has used the RX-7 all aluminum calipers with the 300ZX rotor? Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

A more expensive alternative would be to go aftermarket. Several companies sell fully programmable EFI systems. Namely Accel-DFI, Haltech, SDS and Electromotive. Accel has full blown kits right down to the manifold and throttle bodies. I don't know if the L98 TPI manifold will fit though...Or you can just get a stocker motor and swap in the programmable EFI system. I went with a TPIS manifold and the Haltech E6K. Expensive stuff, I wonder if I will ever get it started?? Looks good on paper though. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html