Owen

You had to cut it out to get to the trans? Wow! how about an X under each seat? Pete, thanks for the pics. I am still unsure as to where the best place to cut is. i want to keep it simple as I do not have any bending tools either. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Don't recall what kinda car you have but installing the T56 in my 73 240Z required me to cut 2 inches out of the middle section of the JTR style tranny Xmember. The T56 is evidently longer than the others mentioned in JTRs book. I also had to hammer a little of the tunnel, get out, get back in, and hammer some more. You might as well hammer too much while the tranny is not installed yet, that way you won't have to go back in. Modify the skip shift too. One thing that I wondered was, would the thing engage if there were no wires attached to it? If no, then there would be no reason to cut it up. See my Mikelly question post a little while back if you havent already. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Pete, My drivers side floor is pretty shot up and I've been looking into options. All I am sure about is the fact that I want subframe connectors. What I need to decide is how to do the floors and the idea of doing them myself is pretty attractive. I am just not sure where to cut. I also can't tell where the floor pan meets the tranny tunnel, mine seems to have no seams at all. Regarding the connector you made, what do you think about adding more? Like an X shape or a ladder or criss-cross. Too much trouble for what it's worth? Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Regarding frame rails and increasing stiffness, in Japan the trend right now is to pour in some kinda urethane or something and let it harden, the holes are blocked up first. They also use it in the roof area, but it's a pain to drill a hole to pour. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I have the one from Summit. Part number SUM-G1750 for $25 bucks. Same thing as a Ford solenoid. One thing that gave me problems is my starter, the S terminal is a spade-push-on type, not a bolt sticking out the back of the starter solenoid. This meant I couldn't use the S-to-Batt post bar mentioned by someone else. I'm gonna connect them with a heavy gauge wire with the appropriate connectors on both ends. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

The part that rubs on my car is the bottom rear corner of the driver's side mount. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Mike Kelly, What is the Nevada SS challenge? Is that at El Mirage, no El Mirage is in California I think... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Thanks guys, but that means pulling the engine to get to that bottom corner of the mount...damn! I don't think I can just take off the shaft, grind the mount from underneath and put the shaft back in either... Just when I have the manifold all bolted down and sealed up too! Owen

For those who used the JTR kit and the mounts they recommended, how much clearance do you have between the motor mount and the steering shaft-the bar that goes diagonally down to the steering linkages. My mount is either sitting on the shaft or is just that close, even with spacers underneath. I can turn the wheel no problem but I am worried about what might happen when the car goes over bumps, etc. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

How hard is it to do what Mike Kelly or Pete P. did for floors. Why did you guys do this instead of buying a replacement floor kit? And are the floors just flat pieces of metal now? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

74-875U was the part number on my 7/8 tilton MC. There aren't any real pitfalls, just make sure you got the right clutch/P plate for your block and the right starter for the 153 tooth flywheel. Mine is in a 73 and only needed slight hammering of the tunnel wall, no grinding off the fins on the tranny sides. Had to cut 2 inches out of the center section of the Xmember bar. Cut off the skip shift solenoid and thats it. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

For me the driver's side was tight. Those damn solenoids were rubbing against the tunnel wall so I hammered a tiny bit. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I've done that already and I have the gauge from the 76 as well, it has a voltmeter instead of the ampmeter. It also has about 4 extra wires compared to the 73. Anyone ever install this into their older Z? Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Good luck with it! I'm a bonehead too cuz I didn't label anything when I ripped out my dash to put new meters in. I was hoping the Haynes and Chiltons manuals I have would be a great help, not so! Now I have to wait until the car is running to see which parts aren't connected right. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html [This message has been edited by Owen (edited March 22, 2000).]

Thanks. What I meant was that I was planning to get a driveshaft for V8 purposes, but was wondering whether I had to get a new one for the R180 to R200 switch. Gotta find a shop now! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

When changing from a V8Z with R180 to a R200, is a new driveshaft necessary or can I use the same one? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Mike, I think the skip shift is the one I circled..it better be! I already chopped it up! My link above and another site seem to verify this. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I got 2 or 3 sources on my links page. Mine came from Texas and cost 1600 altogether. Make sure it's insured, my master and slave cylinder got stolen, but they got me a new one. Also, get one that is made after 1994, better torque capacity. http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

RyalC, do you have a web page for that Firebird/Camaro site? I need some seats too! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Myron, I'm having trouble visualizing this. Your metal piece is inside the car, running door to door or nose to tail? Also, what is an angle iron and where would I get one. Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Ok, I see. Sounded like a golf club to me. But anyways, I chopped two inches out of the middle section and welded it back together. I'm gonna have to grind off this fin on the tail of the tranny cuz it hits the Xmember. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hmmm, sounds easier than what I was planning. I was gonna cut the x member and weld it back together to the right length. But that thing is pretty damn thick! Maybe I should get a new one made... Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Check my links too, Some guys have already done the swap and I think I had links to guys who have actually used the LT1 engine. http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html That LS1 is every V8 swapper's dream! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Got the engine/tranny in today. My car is a 73 and I had to do a little hammering to the tunnel. Now, the transmission X member thingy is too long to use with the T56, Because the T56 is longer and so the mounting location got pushed back to where the tunnel is narrower. The tail of the tranny is sitting on a skateboard under the car right now! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

A 95 with 2K on it?!?! Damn! I am not using the LT1 but I am using the T56 bolted up to a 383 stroker. Definitely get the JTR book, and check out my links page at http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Try and get the latest edition of the book. There is next to little info on the T56. There is also a book on swapping in EFI engines, but it wasnt worth what I paid for it. I have a 73 and the tranny Xmember that came with the JTR kit is too long for use with the T56. And I can't find my skip shift solenoid, see Mike Kelly Question. Using electrical sppedo and tach, not mounted yet. Haltech E6K fuel injection. Good luck! PS you should say where you are, someone might be near you to help you along. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html