Dan Juday

Wagz beat me to it. Here is a link with those same pics and more info on the two styles. http://www.reactionresearch.com/dash.htm

Reaction Research sells two different ones. http://www.reactionresearch.com/pricelist.html#optionalparts Italian-style Fiberglass Dash (Alphabet Version) $ 199 Italian-style Fiberglass Dash (Simpson Version - more accurate) $ 299

Don't force it! It's the clutch fork for sure. I had the same problem. Just pull the fork out like you are tring to pull it through the hole on the bellhousing. It should come easy by hand. Then the engine will saparate from the tranny with no trouble.

I had a garden variety GLH turbo. I test drove an -S though. It idled rough and didn't seem to have anymore poop than my car. That little bugger was quick. I raced some pretty exotic iron and did well. In 1985 BMW had to change their ad campaign due to that car. They claimed to have the fastest accelerating four door sedan sold in America. Oops, got beat by a Dodge. It was fun to drive but not very reliable.

Sawzall, baby! Just make a space. Eh... watch out for wires. Seriously, you have to cut a space in the dash and come up with a creative way (black silicone) to mount it. Steve's dash is all high gloss black AND it's a convertable. He's never had a problem. I've driven the car ( hard ) and can confirm that. Don't know why. What you say makes sense.

Here's a shot I found from the body shop daze.

Here's a couple pics. I had the shop paint it the color of the car and the face a satin black. Z-Dreamer (Mark) wanted it all Viper blue but it was too Hollywood.

I need to post a pick of my Tomahawk dash cap. It's not in the car yet. I have to install a windshield first. But there are other differences between the 280 and 240 dashes besides the connection at the console. This is how I discovered that the Tomahawk cap was made to fit a 280 dash. The gauges are in the same place in relation to each other. But the shape of the top of the dash is different. I had to cut away all the vinyl and foam above the gauges. Also the 240 dash is about 3/4" wider overall. The HVAC vents near the doors are lower on a 280. And for some dumb reason Nissan moved the glove box button from the dash on the 240's to the door on the 280's. I'm in the process of modifing my glove box door because the Tomahawk cap covers the button. What a pain. I bought a 280 glove box door but it wont fit, another difference. So I'm removing the hardware and fitting it to my 240 door. I was either that or drill a hole in the Tomahawk cap to stick your finger through. That just wouldn't look right. What's that word I like... hokey?

Or any junkyard Z. I'm never heard of one going bad. Just make sure you install it the right direction.

Don you bad boy! You'll definately be changing rearends now. What type of controller are you going to use? MegaSquirt? Welcome to the '90's. Happy to have you on the EFI team.

If it's not much taller than a tpi than I doubt there would be any clearance problems. I have about 2" of hood clearance with my tpi. I am using the JTR crossmember to body spacers but they only give you about 1/2" more hood room.

For some of us that would be a little redundant. I'll be there with my baby blue this year.

It sounds like you want to mount the muffler under the fuel tank. While heat is a ligitimate concern the real problem is space. Mounting the muffler under the tank is not only a challenge on how to hang it but also ground clearance. And it has the potential of looking pretty hokey. I've seen a Z with the muffler in the stock location and then the tailpipe routed the an exit in the middle. In that case the tailpipe was very close to the tank. Then there is always my solution. But that is a little extreme for most people.

Check out Todd's phone number. I think somebody... eh... well, you know.

Ross, you have mail.

Scott, you're a riot! So what's the word on your tranny? If I missed the post where you already told us, sorry.

Your post puts a smile on my face. Glad to hear you'll be back jawin' with us jerks. And remember, I'm always here to do that all important new product evaluation research for you. Just send me those parts to test!

Thanks Terry, Simple, straight forward method that doesn't require any fancy tools. Well, there is that laser level but those are getting dirt cheap. So many good uses that they should be in every tool box. Seeing that beautiful straight crease line almost makes me sad to think of what I paid to have mine removed!

Vega: 1. Throw-away motor. 2. Crash inducing rear suspension geometry. 3. Seats designed by the marketing dept. of the American Chiropractic Ass. 4. Sterio at full volume unable to drown out creaking body noise. Yes, I owned one. Extremely week unibody. I had to warn people not to put their fingers in between the window frame and the door jam. The gap was big enough to rest your fingers in. When I would drive up a driveway at an angle the body would flex so badly that it would smash your fingers if you had them in there. I wanted to love the car. The looks were pretty sexy for their time, but the car was a pile.

He and Jon a.k.a. Jumbo240ez are buddies. Maybe drop Jon a note and see if he can hook you up.

Not necessary Alex. You have nothing to worry about.

Yes, two ways: 1) You can buy a unit that converts the signal from the speed sensor to a mechanical output to drive the cable to your stock Datsun speedo. You can calibrate it for your rear gears and tire sizes or recalibrate if you change anything. I've heard this is a nice unit but not cheap. Someone here has installed one resently. If you do a search you can probably find it pretty quick. 2) You can buy and install an aftermarket electronic speedo like the ones Autometer sells and it wires right up with three wires. It is also recalibrateable. I've installed one and I'm very happy with it. Very easy to calibrate. The 5" model fits very well into the S30 dash. Down side is you need to fab a bracket to mount it like the original or do the easy/cheapie method and glue it in with black silicon. Also, you will have to relocate the brake and high beam indicator lights to another area of the dash or do without. Then you get tempted to buy the matching tach as well and then you have to mount new turn signal indicators too. Even if you buy both the tach and speedo though I still think it is cheaper than the electomechanical converter. I'm not 100% on that though so someone here in the know straighten me out if I'm wrong.

David, I've done a tpi swap and an LT1/T56 swap. The LT1 is a sweet powerplant. The best year to get is '95. '96 and later are OBDII. Don't be intimidated by EFI. A/C with the LT1 is a bugger though. In the stock location the compressor interferes with the frame rail. Street and Performance makes some beautiful brackets to relocate the alternator and the compressor over the valve covers but the parts are pricey and you can't use the accessoies that came with the motor. The LS1 is lighter and even more powerfull but is not a bolt-in with the JTR kit. And, IMHO in not as nice to look at as the cleaner LT1. "Wow appeal" can work both ways though. The tpi motor is sexier than both the others but anyone in the know is not impressed by a tpi.

And one moderator to lock the thread when he decides the topic of light bulbs has become too controversial. Well that tears it. I'm sure to be banned now.