Dan Juday

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to be building and installing a MS&S on a tpi motor next year (that's Thursday!) and I can use all the help I can get. Yup, a new swap. If it turns out well I may convert my car over to MS.

I've been told plexi softens enough to form at 180*. Couldn't tell you about Lexan.

I'm gonna take a WAG and say those might not fit on Terry's car.

Very nice BARACU. I've got the same model security system on my car.

Sounds like a good application for Megasquirt.

Ouch! Yes, what Davy said. I cringed when I saw your first pic. You cut away way too much metal. You need to reattach the wheelhouse to the fender shin to recover the structural integrity you lose when you cut them apart. Maybe you already did this before you welded on the flares and I just can't see it in your pics, I hope so. If not this is going to be difficult to do with the flare in place.

Yup, or get one of the real small ones and put it under the seat.

Actually Denny it should be pretty easy to install in a modern fashion. It would be a bear to get out though. All you would need to do is snap a pinch weld trim (like the stuff that holds your door weatherstripping on) over the pinch weld in the windshild opening and set the windshield in with a buetal (sp?) adhesive. Then push the exterior trim piece into the gap between the glass and the body. Do it before the buetal (sp? again) dries and it will help to hold the trim in. There are dozens of sizes of "T" trim available from very narrow, about 3/16" up to over an inch wide. You would need to dry fit the glass to determine how wide you would need it. The trim has a "T" shape in profile with the top being rounded and the vertical section having barbs that hold it in. The top corners would have to be mitered carefully to fit right. Dang it Denny, you're giving me ideas.

There's a Nissan I never heard of. Talk about retro!

So Terry, Did you get it apart? Is everything o.k.? I've noticed that about half the T56's that come up on ebay don't include the clutch fork. I wonder how many people pry and pry 'till it's trashed?

Both are worthy projects. I won't say it's up to you because you already know that, and you asked what would I do. I can appreciate a concourse restoration of a fine classic. It takes a tremendous amount of work and a devotion to the mark. But, that's not what I would do. For me my Z is an outlet for my creativity. Making beautiful, elegant, or ingenious things is a compultion for me. I can only go so long without an outlet for that compultion. Restoring something back to someone elses concept just don't do it for me. Now, where's that Sawzall?

A good idea for buses and heavy equipment, but not soon to go in light passenger cars. Can you say "unsprung weight"? And you guys gripe about heavy Toyota calipers.

Post a link Alex! We all want to hear it.

My l6 and four speed sold for $128 on ebay, but I had never heard it run. Turned out it was just electrical issues. The buyer e-mailed me about four months latter to tell me it fired first time and runs great.

Sorry Mike. That's frustrating. Have you even had it week yet?

Look close. I think it says,"Damn, I'M pretty".

Like, April 3rd?

And to the contrary... $900 may be too much for this particular V8 Z. What kind of condition is it in? If the motor is a tired oil burner/oil leaker, if the frame rails are bent/crushed/rusted through, body full of bondo, if the interior is shot, electrical hacked up, rearend whines, rust in the doors/rockers/floors/hatch area... Did I mention that the turbo 350 is not a very desirable tranny for a V8 Z? It may not be like this at all, but these are things you want to look for before you decide to drop a bunch of money into what seems to be a real deal.

I don't have a plug for you. Not yet at least. But I think you want to have one inny and one outty for the drain and fill plugs. As I remember one is blocked by the mustache bar and not accessable by a socket wrench, end wrench only. And the other is best accessed by a socket wrench.

YES, it's true. I had a friend that would rib me about it. "Your car looks like a dog taking a leak on a tree! Ha Ha!" Mr. smarty pants would never race me though.

Kevin, you still haven't fixed the biggest problem with that car. It's still short two cylinders!

One trick is to remove the t-top and fill the crevice with silicone. Then put Vaseline on the mating surface (t-top or roof) as a mold release where it would touch the wet silicone. Put the top back on and let it dry for a day or two. Remove the top and trim the silicone. Now you have filled your gap where the water gets in and not glued your t-top to the roof. Right on brother!

For the first time since 1962 no hide-away headlights. Looks like the C4 will remain as my aesthetic favorite of the Vette generations.