Dan Juday

I could not think of any reason a 3/8 return would not work just fine. That's what I did. 3/8 supply, 3/8 return. The only problem I had was determining which was which when I had to connect one of them to the pump. Don't get that wrong.

That car is my wallpaper!

Dave, Lone, I'm impressed! The joy of the imformation age. BTW even us mechanic types call it cross-threading. We have another saying engineers hate though, "close nuff".

Try this tilton dealers No listings for AR but you'll know who's closest.

Here's a little help from a V8 guy. We have to deal with this in our convertion. First be aware that it is a metric PIPE thread (tapered). You may allready know this but many have made this mistake. I have found it very difficult to find metric pipe taps and dies. The good news is that it is very, very close to 1/8" pipe thread. If you use a little extra teflon tape 1/8" pipe thread will work fine. This is what jtr advises and it has worked just fine for me. I'm sure many here will concur. Now to answer your question: I don't know. I tried and tried to discover the size but was unsuccessful.

Well Mike, the reason for me is priorities. I don't plan on upgrading my brakes at this time. I need a larger selection of affordable wheels, especially with the wide fenders I've got. The selection of 8 1/2 and 10 inch wide rims jumps way up going to 5 lug. I hope to upgrade the brakes in the future sometime. But for now there are just too many other areas of the car that need my money before it will be roadworthy.

Mojo, you should have searched this one out better before buying the master. Many of us with the T5 have discovered that jtr is wrong on this point. You need the 7/8" bore master. Don't buy the 3/4" IT WILL NOT WORK. I wasted hours and $'s on this.

Welcome Moby! You can to the right place. So spill the beans ya big fish. What are your plans? You posted on the Chevy forum so I guess you're a bow tie man. Is this going to be a mild street ride or a metal bending racer?

I'm I missing something? What's a floater unit? Should I get one for my Z?

Don't feel bad. I spent more than that. Did a beautifull job making the adapter and then discovered my heads had 3/8 npt. On top of that I had already installed the motor and couldn't get a drill down there to redrill and tap the head. I was ready to when some one on this board filled me in on adapter that Stewart Warner makes. just had to do that

My bet is that the GTO kits fill the windows with fiberglass. Welding them up should be no big deal though. Remove the windows and weld in some 20 gauge steal sheet. You will have to fab an edge for the weather striping to mount to, but again no biggie. The work comes in smoothing it out. Sand, fill, sand fill. If you're doing that you may want to shave the drip rails too. Terry O/Blueoval has some pics and advice on that on his page.

I just installed a pair of Starion seats in my Z. Like the Prelude they are very comfortable and adjust everyway to Sunday. They even have an adjustable thigh support as well as the side bolsters and lumbar. They look very different though. On the plus side they fit great and are easy to install. All that was required is one piece of 3/4x3/4 square tube and a few nuts and bolts from Ace hardware. Don't know what Prelude seats would cost. I paid $100/pair.

No, Ross is not advocating stealing other peoples cars. That's Canadian for "jumpering".

The problem I see with using a Ford brake drum for a template is that the hole in the center must be a tight fit on the (don't know what it's called, protrution?) on the hub. Off by a little and you've got trouble. Mike/scca, if a guy wanted to re-drill his hubs but stay with the drums, do you sell a template or does he have to pay for a rotor that he will not use? Don't mean to sound like I'm complaining. I'm looking at going to 5 lug too and the budget is getting tight. "Sweat the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves".

Ok Zya, I have another posibility for you. Call Drive Line Sevice of Concord 925-682-3340. The old man died last year (he made all the drive shafts for Scarab back when), but I understand his son has taken over the business. Don't know how far the accorn fell from the tree, but it's worth a shot.

Zya, try this. Take all the measurements that you can off the old R180 you have and call Eric at Zparts in Richmond 510-233-2624. He has a supply of R200s and can compare pilot and bolt pattern dimensions with what you have.

John Washingtons fiberglas kits

Wow, that car is barely on the road. What did those things cost?

Hey 2adZ, how'd you do that? I couldn't get those people to return my e-mail or phone calls.

The driveline guy I used made the drive shafts for the original Scarabs. He was very adamant about using the right bolts. The bolts should have an unthreaded shank where the part faces mate. He said that most failures happen when the parts slip under heavy torque and shear the bolts. If the bolt is threaded at the mating surfaces the cut thread acts like a score and aids in shearing. I felt this was so important that I made a note in my JTR book: " 5/16x24x1 5/8 cut down to 1 1/8 grade 8. Grade 8 split lock washer and nut. Locktite." Considering that it is impossible to get a torque wrench on these bolts, and very difficult to even get them very tight because of the limited access, I followed his instructions. I can't imagine anyone with more experience with V8Z drive shafts.

I have the rear fenders on my car. Long way from being finished though.

Hey Tim, What do you know about this lug nut guy? Is it a one or two piece adapter. Know anything about the quality or the price? Thanks for posting the info, just tring to save the cost of a long distance call.

I tried flipping mine to get more clearance on the temp senders. No luck. I think I got two lefts. Can't dimple either with the coating.

I was afraid you'ld ask. My doner car was a '91 TA. I imagine it is common to all 3rd gen F bodies (and probably a lot of other GM FI cars). As far as where to find it on the car I just don't remember. Find the bundle of fuel lines coming from the tank and follow them. Sorry, I even tried looking in my Firebird service manual and can't find it.

I know someone here has one. Do a search you'll find him. If they laugh just them. All good reasons for doing the 2+2. I know someone that wants to do a 2+2 roadster because the longer body has a more "sleak" look. I believe all the dimensions are the same forward of the drivers seat. I think you're right, just the drive shaft. Which really means no differance. Everyone has the drive shaft custom made to fit the car anyways.