Dan Juday

FluxOr Dan, there are a couple ways to do this. Jon, a.k.a. Jumbo240Z, used a strap and then another braket. If you do a search in the driveline forum for diff strap you should find lots of info on this. Some solutions are cheap and easy with varing results. Others are more involved. Sounds like a cheap and easy would work fine for your application. Jon has pics too that help explain how to do it. Strap the nose of your diff down and change the gear oil and you should be miles ahead.

Looks like two bolt holes are missing. Any problems with leaks?

"Second question: What's the widest wheel I can put on my z? ( just joking )" This is: 305/50/15 Well, you asked. Some slight modifications may be necessary.

Nezzie & Wags, it looks like if you get your order in by July 19 you can still get it. I'm glad I didn't hesitate.

Alex, you're only encouraging these weenies. You should have done like the other guy and just set your bike down and start laughing.

There is a clue here that it may not clear the steering shaft on LEFT hand drive (i.e. US) cars.

You're absolutely right Grumpy. When I did my swap I bought a heavy four leg stand instead or barrowing my friends three leg stand for free. In my estimation those three leg stands should be illegal. They are just plane dangerous for no good reason. When I was young I tried to save money by not buying the right tools. Only to spend several times more than the price of those tools in medical bills. Never again.

Man! Ever since I put that pic in my signature everyones asking me that. The fenders come from kitcarz.com . The fronts give you about an extra 1 1/2". The rears about 4". 265/50/15 & 305/50/15

Like Terry, I got mine from Billet Specialties . I have 15x8 and 15x10. They have a line that are quite reasonable. You spec the bolt pattern and backspacing. And unlike some other wheel manufacturers, they will drill a 10" with 4 lugs. I paid $193 for the fronts and $200 for the rears. I like the retro deep look myself. I know some guys here don't go for the billet style.

John, here's the link to Reaction Reaserch. It is now kitcarz.com Below is a pic of the YZ rear fenders on my car.

Welcome Charles! Sounds a lot like my car. Do you have the VATS on yours? If I can help out with wiring questions just ask. That was the most fun of the whole job.

FYI Maas, you want 240's only. The 260 was made in '74 only. '74 and later you fall under California smog regs. Also, later 240's, '72 & '73 (maybe '71 as well, I'm not certain) had the diff mounted slightly farther rearward than early cars. This staightened out the half shaft angles making life easier for the u-joints. No big deal to change if you get an early car. If you plan to swap in the R200 it means you need another part from a later car is all. If you look at the pic you see a horizontal bar just below and behind the diff. On early cars it is straight. On later cars it is curved like this one to give clearance for the diff to be moved back.

Welcome Maas, I think the guys here will agree with me, this is the swap for you. Find a 70-73 240 with as little rust as posible. Buy the JTR kit, $350. It comes with the motor and tranny mounts, the driveshaft yoke to fit your shortened Chevy shaft to the Datsun diff. BTW, like Lone said, swap the R180 in the 240 you find for an R200 out of a later 280 or ZX. If all you plan to do with it is drag race the TH350 will work fine. But if you plan to drive it on the freeway shell out a couple more bucks for an overdrive tranny. You'll be much happier. With that motor you'll be in the 12's no problem.

Here is a link to used stock and aftermarket wheels for sale that will "just bolt right up" to your Z. Sizes 14", 15", and 16". used Z wheels

Hey Len, haven't heard from you in a while. Been busy with school? You make me nervious when you talk about loose drive shaft bolts. Especially the way you drive. Drop by a driveline shop and get your bolts there. The bolts should be grade 8 at least and have an unthreaded shank that extends past the point where the yoke and the input flange mate. A thread there acts like a score in the bolt and weakens it. The nuts need to be grade 8 as well, either nylock or "c" pattern. C pattern are the ones that have the dimples on the flats and are hard to tighten up because they have been squished a little. With either one use a little lock tight on the threads. You do that, you shouldn't have anymore problems.

Or, while you've got the L28 out rebuilding it you could drop a small block Chevy in, uh, temporarily.

I know what you’re saying Bang. But he real answer is to spend some of those big bucks the administrators are making off this high profit site and buy a really really fast search program! Sorry about the sarcasm. Just try to remember that the guys that run this site do it for no compensation. We get all this for free. Sometimes what seems like a simple change to people like me, that don't know a lot about programming, can often be a huge hurdle that eats up hours of time or bags of money. Ok, I'll stop now. Just looking out for our buddies that keep this great site up and running. BTW, thanks for the "All Forums" fix.

The backspacing is your problem Nic. I tried some rims off a Tomahawk that had that backspacing and 265/50/15's. Same problem. The rims I ordered are 4 3/4". If I had to do it again though, I'd go with 4 1/2". I figured I'd err on the side of too much. I can always add spacers.

This is the Taurus fan on the small Camaro/V6 Van radiator. The fan is off a '92 3.8L V6.

Here is the official HybridZ performance stats for all models and all years of STOCK Z cars. (1)All models, all years..........NOT ENOUGH!!!!!! Does anyone remember what the motto is for this site?

Can't give any insight on how it will drive. But the rears will fit no problem with 4" flares. I'm running 305/50/15's in the back with 4" flares.

The cool part (for the cops) is that if you do do it, you have fully documented the crime on a public forum beforehand. Hmmm, this sounds a little like a current movie.

Got Flares? I'm running 265/50/15's up front on 8" rims. But I've got coilovers and SubtleZ fenders, about 2" wider than stock. Just barely fits.

You spoke too soon Lone. I don't have any pics, only memories. Back in the early '80's I saw a red 510 at an autocross in Cupertino California with a 454 stuffed in it. In all fairness though, this was a full race car with a 510 body on it. The motor was set way back. The carb set just behind the bottom edge of the windshield. (Eat your heart out JTR) Some people just can't get enough.

I think Terry Oxendale (Blueoval) made his own. Is that true, Terry?