Dan Juday

Your right about Zparts Jim. The best pics of Z cars are on Erics site. Eric worked as a professional photographer for 25 years. He knows how to take a shot. I consider myself very lucky to know him and have pics of my project on his site. He took them of course. When I first saw the shots he took of my engine bay with the motor in I was shocked. No joke, I thought the pics looked better than the real thing. Judge for yourself.

Very nice. Cool time in our history too, Kennedy era. My grandfather had a '67 Olds 98. Massive car. I think it weighted more than our Suburban.

DON'T use these guys. http://www.carautocarrier.com/ It's a long story. Just don't! You'll be sorry.

What? What I say? Funny where your name will pop up, eh?

Boy, here's an old subject again. But hey, if your doing it for the first time it's new to you. And guess what, I'll be doing it for the first time myself this weekend. I picked up an R200 bar at the JY for my swap and the bushings are toast. I'm going to use the torch on them. I have an infrared thermometer so I'll give you guys the difinative answer on how hot the metal gets. Now, if I remember from earlier theads on this subject, I'm suppost to leave the metal sleave in the bar if I'm replacing with urethane, right? Straighten me out on this guys.

This question has been asked (and answered) a lot lately. Yes there are several. If you do a search in the Body and Paint forum for "body kits" you should find lots of info. Some of the guys here, myself included tend to stop replying after the same question gets asked several times in a few days. Don't take it personal. It's just that we wonder if anyone is listening. And welcome to Hybrid!

T-wolf, at $35 the JTR manual is cheap brand new. Honestly, it is well worth several times it's price. Most guys like to keep theirs long after the swap is done. Mine is crammed full of hand written notes. (And grease) I'd never part with mine. Here's the link JTR home page They'll send it right to your door. And no, I don't own any JTR stock.

Yup, what Mike said, it goes under. If you use the Camaro/Van rad you need to drop it another 1/4" to 3/8" more for the rad cap to clear the hood. I found out the hard way. JTR says to use a Tilton 3/4" bore clutch master cylinder with the Camaro T5 tranny clutch slave cylinder. The 3/4" unit doesn't move the slave piston far enough to disengage the clutch. So don't buy it, (unless you want to buy mine, it's never been used, well, successfully) buy the 7/8" bore master cylinder. It works great. There, that should clear that up.

Grumpy's partial to bowties. That's ok. Hey, I put a Chebby in mine. But the Ford swap is sweet. Other advantages are lower weight gain. The 302 is very close in weight to the L6. The 350 is about 140lbs heavier. No hood latch mod with the dizzy forward Ford. The T5 tranny in either GM of Ford configuration works well in both swaps unless you need to go big on the hp. No kit for the Ford, get out your welder, your on your own. But several here have gone before you. Terry (Blueoval) and Jon (Jumbo 240) to name two very active members. MSA and JTR make kits for the SBC. Or you can just buy the JTR book that has drawings and templates for the motor and tranny mounts. Either way you go buy the JTR book first. As has been said here many times before, " this is the first step". And Welcome! Beautiful Z!

Ah, spring must be here. There's essence of Goodyear in the air.

You're not the first to suggest that, Rick. Eric Neyerlin (of Richmond) want's to as well. There is a gal in Lodi named Donna that was here who has done a turbo swap and some custom bodywork. Eric want's to talk more with her. Plus we have to scrutinize Jon’s new diff strap (Antioch). Then there is Ron, Jon promised me he would help with my R200 swap. Ya, we gotta do that. Rio still seems pretty central to all those locals. My car won't be street legal for a while yet. So if you guys want to check it out you'll have to come here anyway. I live across the street from a school so there is plenty of parking (and asphalt, no rust in the dust this time). Only problem I have is my schedule these days. Evenings through the week are out. Maybe a Saturday or Sunday afternoon. Nothing big & fancy this time, just a local get-together with time to talk. You guys let me know what you think and a possible date. Dan

Right on Scott. It sure is nice seeing it in there for the first time, isn't it? I should be able to address many of your questions. I did the factory tpi FI swap with a T5 and a JTR kit. On top of that I live 23 miles away from you. 1. My ECM and VATS went on the drivers side kick panel just above the hood release cable. Relays went where the battery went when it went to the back. 2. Got the whole wad through the teeny hole no problem. 3. Don't know, sorry. 4. Take your adapter with the driveshaft to the driveline shop and they will press the u-joints in at the same time for cheap. 5. Yup, I've heard of them but benefit is probable minimal at best. If you want to shield heat there are better ways to do it. 6. The position of the radiator will determine the placement of the lower mount. I picked up the OEM rubber mounts and used them in the JTR mount. Drilled one hole each and it was a nice fit. Be advised that I had to lower my radiator after I installed the hood and found out the cap hit it. I'm running the same rad you are. Also: JTR tells you to use the 3/4" master with Camero slave. They are WRONG. Use the 7/8" and you will not have the problems I did. If you need to come by and look at something just drop me an e-mail. Dan

Daytona replica and a convertable kit are available from kitcarz.com . I think these are for the coupe, but maybe could be adapted for the 2+2.

Hey Jared, the fronts are SubtleZ and the rears are 280YZ. Both from Kit Car Z, formerly Reaction Reaserch, aka John Washington. And Tee Zee, FYI, I have THREE cresent wrenches: the small one you saw, a bigger one for bigger nuts, and an even bigger one for you, you nut! J.K.

Cool Jon. Nice simple design. Looks easy to fab too. Can't wait to hear how it performs. My only concern would be about bending from heavy launchs. Looks like 1/8" stock? You should have better clearance to the e-brake cable than the Tyler design since you don't have the thickness of the Chevy tranny mount above it. Go out and abuse it a couple a dozen times. Then whip on over here and let me look at it.

I can't win. Now I'm going to have to scrutinize every pic I post beforehand. Red handle? Oh, you mean the blood.

All right you guys, knock it off. I guess I'll never live that down. Anyways, thanks for the NICE things that were said about my car. Sheeeesh! Here is a shot with the heat shield in place. I had the same conserns about the proximity to the tank. I've got lots more shots. One day Eric will put them up so all can see. Right Eric? Eric?

Ouch! You made me cringe when you said you clamped the sleeve and beat on the collar with a hammer and screwdriver . Gentle man, it's just aluminum. Mess up those threads and you could create a dangerous situation. I was baffled at first about he o-ring too. I ended up losing one. It shot off the end of the strut tube while I was tring to put it on. Lost forever in the garage jungle. I picked one up the next day at the hardware store for about 20 cents. If was not exactly like the others but worked just fine. Go buy the o-rings and promise me no more clamping and hammering, ok? There, I feel much better.

There's another advantage to Ron Tyler's (I have to start calling it that instead of Pete's. Not to diss Pete, just got to give credit where it is due) mount. It allows you to mount the front of the diff lower to get better alignment. This is the mount I'm making for when I do my R200 swap. While I'm here I hope you guys don't mind if I ask an associated question. Some have warned about getting the tranny, driveshaft, and diff too well aligned. The inferance is that this would be disastrous? Can anybody shed any light on this? I'd love to learn what, if any, problems this would cause.

Welcome Juan, Being an LA guy you need to tow the Cali smog line if you want a 280. If you get yourself a 240, '70-'73, then no smog inspections. There are advantages to the 280's though: stiffer body, less rust, newer, therefore generally better condition. First things to think about IMHO. BTW, cool dog. How'd you get him to pose so well?

I hate it when people call me that. Book 'em Dano, Book 'em Dano. Ah, shut up.

Sorry, it would have to be something tuffer than an s2000 for me to trash my wifes custom brew. Unworthy houndahs. Woof woof.

Jon, Dude, you're in a rude mood.

I don't have a GTO kit, but I'm running 15x8 and 15x10's with fenders from John Washington. I bought semi-custom billet wheels from Billet Specialties Very reasonable @ $193 & $200. The tires are 265/50 & 305/50. I have coilovers and I ordered the wheels with 4 3/4" backspacing. I would have told them 4 1/2" or 4 5/8" if I did it again. This may not answer your question but if it helps any, great.

Welcome Agent! If I'm interpreting things right, you're a kiwi? Buddy if you're a native the heck with that L28. The heck with a V8 too! Make it true N.Z. hybrid. PUT A SAIL ON IT! Nobody will be able to catch you.